Day 42- 13 Nov- 53 miles/1580 total miles: to Starks, LA
A light rain outside, we clean the RV, pack-up and drive north to US-190, my start point for the day.
Hey! We discover that the parking lot we are in has Wi-Fi. When checking and answering email we find we have a few phone calls to return. OK, now it is lunch time. Oh good, we’ll have the left-over gumbo, shrimp and Cajun stuffed potato.
Back on the road. Good safety lane, light traffic and a very light head wind make for a pleasant ride. After ten miles of flat road we climb a bit into gradually undulating terrain, not rolling hills but gentle changes that raise us out of the lowlands and there are some farms and more cattle on the higher land.
This fifty miles ride is another race with the sun. After about 30 miles, I like lots of breaks to relieve the neck and shoulders and restore circulation on the bicycle seat. No time for more than a quick drink, it is still a “long way to go and a short time to get there”. Betty calls to say she is running late, I tell her I am too. In addition to getting some groceries, she was going to the Kinder Post Office to pick up my wind/rain jacket. I had forgotten it on the SAM train back in Cordele, GA. Our friends Clay and Marybeth Kelley, found it and mailed it ahead to Kinder, LA. Thanks guys!!
Betty passes me at mile 49 and finds a vacant parking area on the east edge of Starks, at mile 53. What a good sight. We wrap it up at about 5:15pm – too dark for my sunglasses, too dark to be riding.
Hot shower and cold beer for me and a glass of wine for Betty. After a light dinner we are ready to turn in. There is almost no traffic on LA-12 adjacent to our parking area; very peaceful.
From Betty: We’ve spent a great deal of time traveling in the vicinity of US-190 which is also known as Acadian Trail. I found it interesting to find out that Cajun comes from Acadian. The 17th century French colonists in Nova Scotia settled in a region they called “Acadia.” During the rivalry between England and France the Acadians declared neutrality, however in 1755 they were rounded up by the English and shipped off to American colonies. Most were refused entry into the colonies and were then shipped to many areas to include: France, Quebec, the French West Indies, French Guiana and the Falkland Islands.
In 1762 Spain gained control of Louisiana and needed settlers to bolster their claims. In 1785 seven ships brought 1600 Acadians to Louisiana thus ending their 30 year exile. The Acadians retreated into isolation along the bayous and open prairies west of the AtchafalyaBasin and began rebuilding their lives. Their numbers slowly swelled as other Acadians learned about the new homeland. Over the years French Acadians became known as ‘Cadians and eventually Cajuns. (Information found on the back of the Adventure Cyclist map for this area).
Now for Cajun cooking. Wow!! We love the taste of Cajun food. Tom Billiodeaux told me to be sure and buy Cajun spices before leaving the area. He suggested I buy Tony Chachere’s seasoning and also already prepared Roux (which is the base for Gumbo). He said you can make it at home from olive oil and flour, however you really have to get the mixture very dark and end up stinking up the kitchen, so many folks buy the already prepared (powdered) Roux. I did as he suggested. He also offered to send a recipe for Gumbo and I received it when I last had a computer connection. Many Thanks, Tom!!
Day 43- 14 Nov- 35 miles/1615 total miles: to Evadale, TX
Yahoo! Today we enter Texas. We leave the CRV at our dry camp in Starks, LA drive the RV into Texas and get permission to park at a small restaurant that won’t open until lunch time. Betty rides with me and we get some pictures at the entrance marker at the state line. It seems that all highways entering Texas have a large, (about 8 ft high and 8 ft wide) brick and concrete, monument in the shape of the state. We remembered the excitement during the Transcontinental Trailride when everyone rode their horses near the monument for a picture. Now we have our bikes by the state marker, not quite the same “Texas image” as the horses were.
We have lunch at the Corral Restaurant where we had parked the RV. Their small hamburger steak was huge. More left-overs. We move the RV ahead to Evadale, TX and I ride back to get the car. We are dry camped in a parking lot used by carpooling commuters and truck drivers.
The weather here is as warm and humid as it was in south Florida 6 weeks ago. The price of unleaded is $1.86 and diesel is $2.29 per gallon. It’s good to be back in Texas.
From Betty: Here is the recipe from Tom and Debbie — Enjoy!
Gumbo
Cook: Debbie Billiodeaux
Start by using a pot that will hold 2x total volume you want: Soup or Gumbo pot with 13 inch diameter will hold ½ gallon per inch. Just use a soup pot that will have capacity of at least 4-5 Gal.
You will start with 2 gallons of water.
Ingredients:
- 8 tblsp Roux (about a good handful)
- 3 tsp chopped garlic
- 2 cans (12oz) chicken broth
- 16oz bag chopped okra
- (optional) 1 tbsp dried shrimp (do not use more as it will offset flavor).
- 1 cutup HEN. Remove skin, but not all the fat. May cook the skin for added flavor, but take it out before serving.
- Smoked Meat: 2 pcs tasso (1/4 lb) , smoked sausage (3, 10” links) slice sausage into ¼” to 3/8” pieces. Use diagonal slices to have larger pieces.
- 1 large onion- chopped
- ½ bell pepper – chopped
- Season well with Tony Charchere Seasoning mix.
- Fresh parsley (4 stalks) – chopped
- Fresh Green onions (1 bundle, or 5-7 stalks) – chopped
Instructions:
Fill Pot with 2 gallons tap water or about 1/3 volume.
Everything above goes in the pot. Heat and stir to dissolve roux. Cook on medium (low boil) till chicken is tender. Usually takes about 2 hrs. Tougher meat may take up to 4-6 hrs.
About 10 – 20 minutes before done, add the parsley and green onions.
Rice: Cook 2 cups of rice for 6 people.
Serving Extras: French bread, Gumbo File’
Tom tells me the word HEN is very important. It must be a HEN. He also says that when they are out camped they use squirrel, rabbit or duck.
Day 44- 15 Nov- 50 miles/1665 total miles: to about 15 mi SE of Cleveland, TX
It was warm and humid yesterday, a cool front moved through during the night. This morning the humidity is low and the wind howling out of the Northwest. Oh crap, I’m biking west.
This was the most physically and psychologically demanding day of the trip so far. Pedaling hard into the wind is twice the effort for half the distance. Unbelievably, I would gear down to near “grandma”, making 6 or 7 mph and still have to work hard. At times the gusts would nearly blow me into the middle of the road, not good. And, the temp was dropping.
While having a BBQ Sandwich for lunch I met Lawrence Parthum, a CPA who is the Hardin County Auditor. He asked about the bike trip and passed along some information about the roads I would be riding on for the next 20-30 miles. He said he couldn’t help with the wind.
During a break at a convenience store, I overheard two old Texans talking about the wind. Both were probably in their late 70’s, neat and cleanly dressed in the typical Texas uniform: jeans, boots, wide belt with large buckle and large brimmed hat. One said he had heard on the TV that winds would be 20 mph gusting to 30 mph. The other guy said I hear that too, but I know better; the roof on my feed shed doesn’t start to lift until the wind gets to 40mph and gusts were lifting it. The first guy reckoned as how his friend should do a better job of nailing down the roof of the feed shed.
Betty moved the RV to a “Thousand Trails” campground at Lake Conroe, we received a membership in Thousand Trails a few years ago when we bought an RV. She drove back to get me. A long drive but we plan to be at Lake Conroe a couple of days. The plan was for me to continue riding west on TX-105 and Betty would drive east until she met me. I was tired, cold and glad to see her.
“Way out west they have a name for rain and wind and fire; … and they call the wind Mariah, MARIAH!
From Betty: I can believe the gusts were 40mph. Driving that big billboard/kite down the road was a real treat!! I’m just glad to have this day behind me and hopefully less wind in the future.
We were just talking about the fact that we only have about a week and a half before we need to head back to Florida. We hope to be someplace in west Texas and maybe near New Mexico.
Oh, about the Thousand Trails campsites. Because we have a membership and pay a yearly fee, we can stay in them up to about 240 days a year. They are usually full hook-up campsites and also they always have some type of internet connecting possibilities. In the case of this park we have Wi-Fi right to our RV. We’ve stayed in the one at Hershey, PA, Orlando, FL, San Antonio, TX and this one. There are a couple others, but I don’t remember which ones.
Day 45-16 Nov-49 miles/1714 total miles: to about 10 miles west of Conroe, TX
The weather report this morning showed yesterday’s winds had max gusts exceeding 45 mph recorded all over this area with 48 mph being the highest. About 600 local homes were without power due to limbs blown onto powerlines. Later we learned there was considerable damage east of us; especially in Louisiana and Alabama.
Today the winds will be out of the west but at only 10 to 15 mph and temps in the forties. Betty made the long drive to drop me at the same point I stopped at yesterday. After yesterday, it was almost a pleasure to bike into a light headwind. Most of the route had a wide, smooth safety lane.
At noon, I passed an American Legion Post that had a sign announcing “lunch”. I met Dough McKinney, the Post Adjutant. A wiry Texan who seems to run this Legion Post. He took an interest in our bike trip and called Mari McAhan to bring a camera. He wanted a picture for their Post newsletter. Marti took a picture then she took some notes for a short article. Doug showed me a picture on their bulletin board of the Post mascot, a mule. He said he owned another mule. I wondered if my picture would go next to “Colonel J’s” picture. When I told Doug that over the years I had found that mules and their owners seemed to have a lot in common, Marti nodded yes. My first observation of this was with my grandfather and his mule, “Ned”, but I continue to be amazed by this phenomenon.
Hope I did not offend Doug, it was meant as a tribute to his tough character. His generosity showed when he wrote a check for a donation to the American Cancer Society from their Post. Thanks to Doug, Marti and all the members of American Legion Post 393.
Through Cleveland, TX, 22 miles and through Conroe, the miles rolled by. Betty drove along Texas Highway 105 until she spotted me. We went back to the RV for a shower then out to Los Cucos for a great Mexican dinner.
Day 46- 17 Nov- 33 miles/1747 total miles: to Navasota, TX
Temps were in the low 30’s last night. Cool, sunny and only light winds this morning.
This campsite (Thousand Trails) has full hook-ups (water, electricity and sewer) and Wi-Fi. This means we can do the wash and catch up on our email. This all translates to a late start.
Texas State Road 105 West rolls through east Texas, long easy grades, mostly with a wide, smooth safety lane. Traffic is moderately heavy and moves fast. State Troopers are rare but when they do show up sometimes it is “en mass” and they mean business.
This reminds me of a story relayed by Jim Goddard, a Naples friend. It seems a trooper pulled an old Texan over for speeding. The trooper lectured the old guy for some time. During this dissertation, he sometimes swatted at flies buzzing around his face. As the trooper started writing the ticket, the old Texan said “I see the Circle Flies are getting to you”. The officer said he’d never heard of Circle Flies. The old man told him they call them Circle Flies because they fly in circles around the horses butt. The trooper got indignant and asked if the old guy was calling him a horses butt. The Texan said “Oh no, I’d never do that”. Then, as the trooper continued writing the ticket, the old Texan said “But you just can’t fool those Circle Flies.”
In Navasota, Betty got permission to park overnight in a fuel station in an industrial area. Since it was a low mileage day, I arrived in mid-afternoon.
I took advantage of the extra time to replace my front tire. It was wearing thin and had a couple of cuts and worn spots. The thorn resistant tube and the “Tuffy” liner seemed to be fine so I stuffed them back into the new tire. Pumped to 115 pounds of pressure, we are ready to roll tomorrow.
Day 47- 18 Nov- 56 miles/1803 total miles: to Giddings, TX
A sign that we are moving west, rail traffic is increasing. We are parked near the intersection of two rail lines. It seemed that about ten trains going one way or another sounded their long wailing whistle during the night. Fortunately, we both like trains. Betty grew up in Lime Springs, Iowa with trains running through their little town day and night; she slept well without interruption. I just smiled and went back to sleep while thinking of Johnny Cash, the Trans-Siberian Railway, the SAM Shortline and model trains around our Christmas tree.
It is a perfect biking day; cool, no wind and sunny. The first 25 miles are up and down rolling terrain and the remainder was flat. The miles slipped by easily. Small towns appear every 15-20 miles with fenced ranches in between. The ranches are probably small by Texas standards.
Another measure of our progress is the rivers that we cross. Native Americans have used these rivers for thousands of years. This nation was explored and settled using the rivers. Many of our political borders were established along our rivers. Every time I bike across a major river, I reflect a bit on its history. Visions of Indians in canoes, explorers paddling into the unknown, keel boats and steam boats with supplies and produce, flash through my mind as I pedal over a modern bridge on a busy highway. Rivers that come to mind on this trip are: the Chattahoochee, border between Georgia and Alabama, the Alabama River and Tombigbee, the Pearl River that forms part of the border of Mississippi and Louisiana and the mighty “Mississip” that borders many states. In Texas the Sabine River once marked the extent of Mexican territory and is now the border with Louisiana. The Neches, Trinity, Navasota and Brazos all conjure memories of books, movies and historical events. Today as I biked by “Washington on the Brazos”, I could imagine Texans plotting their revolt against Mexico here. I like rivers.
We have now intersected US-290 and may stay on it for the next 200 miles or so if the safety lane stays wide and smooth. This route takes us west through Austin to I-10. Betty has called the Texas Highway Patrol in the area we will be passing through to insure that it is legal to ride along the Interstate. Some places in the west, the Interstate replaced local roads so now exceptions are made to allow foot, horse, tractor and bike traffic.
Our home for the night will be in the Giddings Ramada Inn parking lot. Betty got permission to dry camp there and they have Wi-Fi.
Waiting wife, warm welcome, cold beer, Auburn vs Alabama, popcorn, pizza; what more could a guy want!
PS – Just before turning in for the night I took our two little dogs for a walk. Somehow, in the dark, we got into sandspurs, lots of sandspurs. The dogs had so many of these nasty little “needle balls” that they couldn’t walk and I couldn’t carry them. I yelled for Betty to help me. We spent the next two hours pulling, cutting, combing and comforting; all four of us were repeatedly “punctuated” with agony. Won’t do that again!
From Betty: Now it makes you wonder what he means by that? Won’t get into sandspurs? Won’t walk the dogs? Won’t pull stickers out? Yes, we’re back in sandspur country.
Day 48- 19 Nov- 62 miles/1865 total miles: to Austin, TX
A good day for biking. I rode out before Betty. After about 30 miles I saw this old Roadhouse in Bastrop. Folks were eating outside on this cool sunny day, it was too good to pass up. I called Betty, she was less than 10 miles away. Lunch was good.
The entrance to Bastrop State Park was just across the highway from the Roadhouse, so we dumped our tanks.
Betty drove on in to Austin, about 30 miles. She wanted to get the RV through Austin today, hoping that Sunday traffic would be lighter than a workday. She found a place to dry-camp at a Super WalMart. It was nearly dark by the time I came dragging in. Glad I wasn’t in their “heavy” traffic.
After a shower, but before supper (this is a “happy hour”), I got chilled and felt weak. I knew it was serious when Heineken didn’t taste good. In bed by 8pm with extra blankets.
Day 49- 20 Nov- 50 miles/1915 total miles: to Johnson City, TX
About 4 other RVs spent the night in Austin’s Super WalMart parking lot with us. We have found that dry camping at WalMart usually costs us about one hundred dollars as we re-supply for the next few days.
It’s amazing what eleven hours of sleep will do for the human body. Still a little weak, but I woke up feeling good.
Back out into the moving maze of Austin roads and traffic. Somehow, the safety lanes seem to disappear as we enter a large town or city. My riding position is on the far right, the problem is that exit and entrance lanes often leave me stranded between lanes waiting for a break between speeding vehicles to dart back to the right side of the right lane.
Ok, out of Austin and into Texas hill country; rolling hills revealing great vistas from the tops and dry creeks in between. With a ground cover of drying grasses, cactus, mesquite, juniper and small oaks, this is ranch country. Local folks tell us that it is greener and not nearly as dry as most years. This would be great biking if it were not for the rough road surface. The asphalt has a surface of crushed rock. The constant jarring is hard on bike and body, vehicle tires howl as they pass. My bike speed is reduced by 5 to 10 mph and the pedaling is harder. We have been moving west on US-290 for about 150 miles. Tomorrow, we will intersect I-10 and hope to ride on the safety lane or a frontage road the next 500 miles to El Paso and New Mexico.
Ah yes, it is Johnson City and the Road Runner RV campground. Betty has refilled the propane tank and hooked up on a beautiful site. Crock-pot lasagna, fresh salad, Italian bread and a glass of red wine. Life is good!
And we had a Road Runner right outside the RV.
Day 50- 21 Nov- 32 miles/1947 total miles: to Fredericksburg, TX
The locals say it got down to 32 degrees last night, but I didn’t see frost this morning. It is cool and sunny with a light SW wind.
We decided to take some time to visit the boyhood home of President Lyndon Johnson. He was born in 1908, on a farm about 13 miles west of Johnson City. One of his grandfather’s nephews donated the land for the town which is how it was named.
Lyndon’s family moved to town when he was just a few years old. They lived in a small, modest, frame house without electricity or plumbing, but it was one of the nicest homes in Johnson City. The house has been restored to its 1920s condition. Even though that was a couple of decades before we were born, Betty and I felt a bit like we were walking into our own past. It had wood burning stoves, including the cook stove, kerosene lamps, an icebox, high ceilings, small rooms and looked a lot like the little house I lived in until I was about 8 years old.
As with most past Presidents, the National Park Service preserves and manages the buildings and grounds. They have interesting displays and a short film at the Visitor’s Center. All the park Rangers were knowledgeable and most informative. Mike McCoy, an interpretive Ranger, and I discussed their exhibit of Vietnam era military uniforms. While talking I discovered that he is also a long distance biker. He has biked across the US several times and spent last summer touring New Zealand by bike. He gave Betty and me lots of info about roads and sights we might consider as we move west.
By 2pm, I was biking west. Betty drove the RV to the LBJ Ranch west of town and found their tour there very interesting. We are in the heart of “Texas Hill Country”. The ups and downs aren’t as troublesome as the rough surfaced highway and the quartering headwind. When I bike by the LBJ Ranch, I saw our RV in the distant parking lot and knew Betty would be on the Park Service bus tour.
There are a number of Historical Markers along the road side. If they are reasonably accessible, I stop to get a sense of the area and its history. Plus, it is a short break that I look forward to from the time I see the “One Mile” sign. Today, I just missed a marker on the opposite side of the road. It was an old parking lot with a loose gravel surface. As I made a U-turn, the wheels slipped on the gravel and I was down in a flash. My feet are locked to the pedals so an instant response to stop a fall is not possible. The results were uncomfortable but nothing broken. The heel of my left hand broke the fall. That hand and wrist were just healing from the fall Betty and I had back by the Mississippi River when our bicycles tried to mate. Later, Betty pointed out that today’s fall had scraped the “Mississippi” scab off my left knee and some blood had tricked into my sock; looked bad but not a problem.
This is my second fall caused by not getting my feet out of the pedal locks quickly enough. The first was in Tampa riding with Beth Lawson. We were stopped at a pedestrian crossing and I just fell to the side, she was nice enough not to laugh.
On US-290, we passed just north of Luckenbach, Texas (think “Back to the Basics of Love” by Waylon Jennings). We have passed through several other little Texas towns with interesting names, like: Hye, Dripping Springs and Cut & Shoot.
Because Betty was on an afternoon tour, I arrived in Fredericksburg, found the Hill Country RV Park and made arrangements for us to stay the night before Betty arrived. This was a first. I called her cell phone to let her know where to stop. Soon, I saw Betty driving up just as confident as if she were driving a small car. It seems almost unnatural to see this little gal at the wheel of such a big rig; and towing a car. While hooking up, I met Chuck Penn, a fellow camper; he is from Minnesota, near the Twin Cities and is also a biker. We had a short chat about our trip before we both had to get on with our assigned chores.
Fredericksburg had a large contingent of German settlers and now has many appealing German restaurants and shops. We had Roulade and Jaeger Schnitzel in a very “German
atmosphere – great!
From Betty: I really enjoyed the LBJ Ranch Tour. It was a 28 minute film followed by an hour and a half bus tour. LBJ really enjoyed taking visitors to the ranch and conducted a lot of his business there because he felt comfortable on his turf. He had some good fun with his visitors as well. He had an amphibious car and would take unsuspecting guests for a ride around the ranch. The ranch is on the Pedernales River and when they would get near the river he would say “Oh no, the brakes have failed, looks like we’re going to end up in the river” and he would drive into the river. Sometimes people would jump out of the car and he would have a good laugh. The ranch is a working ranch. They have cows and a few horses. Lady Bird still comes to the ranch “White House” on special occasions, but she no longer lives there full time. I think they said she lives in Austin. The ranch is run together by the National Park Service and the Texas State Parks. A very unusual arrangement that LBJ set up before his death.
Chuck and I decided it would be fun to visit the home sites of all the past Presidents. Actually we wondered whether we should go visit “W” for Thanksgiving Dinner. Their ranch is in Crawford, TX which is near Waco and a couple hours north of us.
Happy Thanksgiving!!!!
Day 51- 22 Nov- 48 miles/1995 total miles: to 6 miles S of Segovia on I-10
Riding out of Fredericksburg, the German influence was obvious for miles in the names of roads and ranches. The rough surfaced road continues. Constant jarring shook my mirror loose; I did not go back to look for it.
Cell phone coverage here is sketchy at best. I tried to contact Betty and arrange to meet for lunch. Then, as I was eating in the Longhorn Café in Harper, I saw her drive by. Later she said she saw my bike outside but could not find a convenient place to park the big rig. The Longhorn Café must be a local favorite, it was packed. The walls are covered with hunting trophies, cowboy paraphernalia and pioneer tools. I talked with Ron, a local biker, who is doing a day ride on “The Werner Loop?” Linda, one of the waitresses, asked about my little McDonald pin. When I told her it was given to me by one of the staff at a “Big M” in Luverne, AL, she said they didn’t have any pins but she would give me a pen. I was so surprised; I walked out without leaving a tip. Their address is on the pen, I will mail a tardy tip to Linda and the other girl who were so busy today.
As we move west through Texas Hill Country the land is getting progressively drier. More cactus, more mesquite, browner grasses. Texas Hill Country is a transition area between lower, more humid, east Texas and higher drier west Texas.
Finally, I arrive at I-10. As I proceed on the entry ramp, I watch for signs that might prohibit bicycles; none. I am flying along on a smooth surface, mostly flat super-highway with a tail wind. This is my first biking experience on an interstate. The speed limit is 80mph, but 20 is about all I can muster unless going downhill, then maybe 30mph for a few moments. Only 6 miles from where Betty is parked, I have a blow-out, rear tire. Rather than patch it or replace it with another flimsy tube, I called Betty. She took me back to the RV and I replaced the tube with a “thorn resistant” one, put in a “Tuffy” liner and replaced the worn tire. Tomorrow, Betty will take me back to mile marker 472 and drop me off to start the day.
For the past couple of days, Betty has been methodically planning our Thanksgiving dinner. Turkey is thawing, she got cranberries, oranges and nuts this morning and pie is ready. It takes some extra thought and effort to put together a special meal “on the go”. But, there is no doubt that tomorrow it will be a “moveable feast”. I plan to bike early and relax later, after the big meal.
From Betty: We parked in the Econo Lodge RV Park in Segovia. They have an RV park right next door to the Lodge. The Lodge is operated by Pravina and Dilip Khatri. They were very nice. They don’t have Wi-Fi to the RV park, but do have it in the Lodge and said I could go in and use it. Time wise, I didn’t have time to go over, but this morning when I left I went to give Mr. Khatri one of our cards I had promised him. He had hoped to take a picture of Chuck, but Chuck was already on the road. Many Thanks to the Khatri’s for a great stay. The plan today was to ride from Mile Marker 472 to Roosevelt, however a late start caused us to change the plan and stop in Junction – in order to have our Thanksgiving Dinner and take the afternoon off.
Day 52- 23 Nov- 18 miles/2013 total miles: to Junction, TX
Thanksgiving! Betty took me back to Mile Marker 472 on I-10. It was a leisurely 6 miles ride on up to our Segovia Campsite. Betty and I washed the RV and the CRV; they really needed a bath.
Betty then drove on west to Junction. It was a pleasant 12 miles ride for me. While Betty prepared dinner, I worked on bikes and did some “organizing” in the CRV and basement of the RV. Also, we caught some of the Dallas vs TampaBay game. Dinner was great, and the left-overs will be a real treat. After dinner, we drove the CRV up to a high bluff overlooking Junction and this entire valley. It was a grand view; the setting sun cast a crimson glow on the distant horizon. This is big country.
It was a good day. We have so much to be “thankful” for, it is good to have a special day to reflect on our blessings.
From Betty: We’re in the Junction KOA. We’re on the Llano River. When I started thinking about what I was going to be cooking I realized I would need 50 amp electric and we only had 30 amp in Segovia. As it happens we also have Wi-Fi to the RV. When I checked in here at the KOA, they said someone who came in yesterday had asked if they had a long distance biker staying here. We figure it was probably someone who passed either Chuck or I on the road and saw the signs.
We had a great Thanksgiving and we do have many blessings for which to be thankful.
Many Thanks to the great staff at Junction KOA.
Day 53- 24 Nov- 62 miles/2075 total miles: to Sonora (mm-394 – 4miles west on I-10)
The campsite we were in for Thanksgiving was a KOA campground. KOA sites are usually pretty nice with many amenities and cost a few dollars more than others. Besides having Wi-Fi and cable, it is also located on the LlanoRiver which actually has flowing water.
I rode out of the campsite west along the River on a paved secondary road which will intersect I-10 in about 12 miles. In the middle of no-place there are two historical markers side-by-side. One tells of a Spanish Marquis who camped here on the river bank in 1667, he was sent to Mexico by the King of Spain to assess Spanish missions. As a result all but two were later closed. San Antonio and one other remained operational. The other historical marker noted that Captain N. O. Reynolds established a Texas Ranger outpost here in 1877. He and 30 men helped protect settlers from raiding Comanche’s and desperadoes. This area hasn’t changed much with the passing centuries. The Spanish have left, Indians are no longer raiding but the land is the same: still in the middle of no-place.
Back on I-10, moving west, vehicles flying by. The wind is from the South, mostly a cross-wind, however, as the interstate curves, it is sometimes a headwind. It seems that it is never a tailwind. (Actually, sometimes it is but the forward motion of the bike overshadows it). Long but not steep hills, sometimes smooth, sometimes rough safety lane, dodging road debris; and so go the miles. Every mile-marker is an event. My mind is occupied with simple arithmetic: started at mm456, now at 428, geez only have gone 28 miles, not even half-way. Let’s see, at this average speed, I will meet Betty at 4:45pm. It gets too dark to ride safely by 5pm. I’d better speed up if I expect to take any rest breaks.
Betty is waiting at a Rest Stop. It has a lot of traffic coming and going in a relatively small area, she suggests we check out the next exit. It is great – nothing there but a wide gravel parking area and an oil well derrick about a half-mile away. It is our dry camp for the night.
Far from the glow of any city lights, it gets really dark and stars fill the sky. This is to be expected, after all, we are “deep in the heart of Texas”.
Day 54- 25 Nov- 45 miles/2120 total miles: to Rest Area at MM349, 16 miles W. of Ozona
We had our little dry camp all to ourselves last night. This morning, Betty took me back two miles to the busy Rest Area we abandoned late yesterday afternoon.
A kiss good-bye and I ride west. Sounds like something out of an exciting Western novel; but not. The reality is: more long, uninteresting miles on the Interstate. Neck and shoulders ache from bending down but looking up, butt aches from too much time on the saddle (bike seat) and hands and wrists ache from constant jarring caused by a rough road surface. High speed traffic whizzes by less than ten feet from my bike, I dare not lose my concentration and stray to close. Are we having fun yet? Yes, I think so. At the top of each rise I can see for miles: bluffs, dry stream beds, small hills covered with mesquite and cactus with no vegetation more than 20 ft high. I think of pioneers, settlers, ranchers, Indians all eking out a living from a harsh land. Hey, makes me realize I’ve got it pretty good, especially after a hot shower and two cold beers. Now my biggest complaint is that there is no TV reception, not even a fuzzy hint and we are missing the Florida vs Florida State game. Life is tough riding the range.
Interstate exits here are few and far between. Many of the exits are only an intersection of some small desolate road to a distant town that may only be a wide spot. It is a challenge for Betty to find someplace for us at a comfortable riding distance each day. Tonight we are dry-camping at a Rest Area. This one is roomier and not nearly as busy as the one we checked yesterday afternoon.
Passing Observations:
In the Big Thicket of East Texas the top road kill victims were raccoon and cotton tails. In Texas Hill Country it was white tail deer. As we move into West Texas no one species dominates. In the past couple of days road kill has included a jack rabbit, mule deer, red fox, coyote and two javelina.
The road sides in Texas continue to be the cleanest we have seen: “Don’t Mess With Texas”.
Day 55- 26 Nov- 42 miles/2162 total miles: to MM 307
Windy dawn, maybe 15 mph out of the south, cool morning. On the road, slight tailwind, smooth surface, good biking. Cross the PecosRiver. Meet Betty for lunch at a service station lot, MM328. We finish the ride at MM 307, then drive to FortStockton, where we will finish tomorrow. We leaped ahead to a campground so we could dump tanks, fill fresh water and do laundry. Tomorrow, I will drive back to MM 307, leave the CRV there, and bike to Ft.Stockton. Then, Betty and I will start driving east. We will pick up the CRV and continue to Florida. It will be our last biking day until next spring. Somehow this doesn’t seem quite right, but the break will be good. We need to renew our bike supplies and refresh body and spirit. Plus, we are looking forward to Christmas with Suz and family.
We are staying at a KOA Campground just east of Fort Stockton and see a Roadrunner as we are about to enter. It was our first Roadrunner on this trip and a fitting symbol for the ending point of this phase of our trip. We have dinner at the campground restaurant, The Roadrunner Café.
From Betty:
It’s been so interesting the different climatic zones and vegetative systems we’ve traveled through. This country is beautiful and very diverse. We are really enjoying the differences.
This KOA (Ft. Stockton KOA) is a great campground and owner, Cheryl Self, has allowed me to wait until Chuck returns from his biking day (11-27) before pulling up camp – normal check out is 11am and Chuck will probably return about 2:30pm. In fact, when I told her about our trip and our cause, she said she is a cancer survivor and said when we resume our trip in the spring to come back compliments of her. It’s nice to meet so many wonderful folks!
Thanks Cheryl.
Day 56- 27 Nov 2006- 45 miles/2207 total miles: to KOA Ft Stockton, TX (MM 265)
Yesterday, I forgot to mention that after the ride I checked my bike tires and found some pointy objects: I pulled out 3 small thorns in the rear tire and 2 in the front tire, plus a very thin wire in the front tire. I suspect the wire is a broken piece of “steel belt” from a radial tire. Tire pieces are, by far, the most common road debris, from 8 foot long tread to small bits and pieces of rubber and wire tangles.
This morning my front tire was flat. Maybe that needle like wire got through the Tuffy liner and the thorn resistant tube. When pumped up it held so I rode with it. Routinely, I carry a small patch kit and a spare flimsy (not thorn resistant) tube.
The wind was out of the south at 15 gusting to 25mph. It is a strong cross wind that varies from a quartering tailwind to headwind. The views are great, large valleys, mesas and long ridges. I-10 cuts through some of higher terrain exposing the sedimentary limestone that lies under the sandy soil of this area. For a stretch of about ten miles the distant mesas are lined with modern, electricity generating windmills, hundreds of them, all turning slowly but powerfully.
The last ten miles of the day, of this phase of the trip, hey, I’m flying. The crosswind has shifted to a definite tailwind. It is a good feeling to cruise in the last few miles. Betty has the RV packed and ready to roll as soon as I shower.
We now drive eastward on I-10. It’s kind of sad to see the miles that I pedaled the past few days go by so quickly. We will return in late March or early April 2007 to continue west to California then north to Canada. Cheryl Self, owner of the Fort Stockton KOA offered us a free night’s stay when we return. We look forward to it; this was a very friendly campground.
It has been a good trip. We have learned a lot about long distance biking and how we like to approach it. During the next several months we will tweak our equipment and vehicles, our future schedule and our plans. We are thinking we will slow the pace to allow more time for seeing the areas we are passing through. Already, the best memories of this trip are of the people we met, the friends we visited, the places we took time to explore and not how many miles we made each day nor how hard we pushed. I guess that if the goal was to get there as quickly as possible we would not be biking. I don’t remember who said this but it definitely applies. “It’s the journey, not the destination”.
From Betty:
We thank all of you who have been following along on our journey.
And now, it’s back to Florida, then to Germany, then planning the next phase.
Merry Christmas and Love to you all from Chuck and Betty