Day 6- 1Oct06- 36mi/182 mi total: to Value Jet Memorial on US 41
Betty drove me to the start point behind the Homestead General Aviation Airport, HGAA, and I continued biking on the trail along the C111 Canal. A few miles north of the HGAA the trail crosses a paved road; I think it is Grossman Drive or maybe SW 184th St. (Eureka Drive). Just north of this road, at a flood control station, the trail continues on top of the L31N levee.
While bumping along this part I came across two men installing electronic measuring equipment at a gaging station about 4 miles south of US 41. One of the men was with South Florida Water Management District and the other a specialist from Idaho contracted to install metering equipment in monitoring wells. They are tracking the underground flow of water at different depths. It was interesting that water is flowing eastward from the Everglades eat the rate of hundreds of feet per day. They measure at four levels between 15 feet and 165 feet below the surface. These guys were experts in their field and spent about a half hour explaining how water moves from the Everglades to the wells and canals of the Miami area. They had computer monitors in their van with real time flow data and they said this same info could be accessed from the Internet. I have since misplaced their business cards but I believe their names are Steve and Jim. Thanks guys.
Betty met me at US 41. We drove west to an airboat concession near the Value Jet Memorial and obtained permission to leave the CRV overnight. It was an enjoyable bike ride along the canal and back to the Casino. The canal runs parallel to US 41 with a single lane gravel trail on top of the levee and a gravel road down along the canal. The view from the top of the levee was good; miles and miles of everglades. While on the levee we saw a black fox. I saw a similar fox when I hiked this portion seven years ago. I think I found then that this is the black phase of what is really a red fox.
Soon we were back at the Casino and had dinner in their “Café Hammock”.
Day 7- 2 Oct- 52 mi/244 miles total: to SR 29 (Everglades Turnoff) via Loop Rd and Monroe Station
The CRV made it through the night without incident. The Airboat rental concession was right on US 41 and unlighted but it is on the Miccosukee Indian Reservation and well patrolled. The first 11 miles were on US 41. There was no canal road but there was a wide shoulder; an easy ride on the road bike.
Betty met me at the start of Loop Road(40 mile bend). I switched to the hybrid and took Loop Road(24 miles) through beautiful everglades and cypress swamp. Saw lotsa gators and wading birds. The shell surfaced road is in much better condition than a few years ago. Dodging large water filled pot holes and the great scenery made it a very enjoyable ride. Plus, I passed the southern terminus of the Florida Trail (FT). On 28 December 1999, my son-in-law, EJ O’Brien dropped me off here to start hiking the FT. Two months and 1160 miles later I finished the FT at the Alabama border north of Pensacola. I like hiking but the miles sure go by faster and more smoothly on a bike.
Betty was waiting, with the RV, at Monroe Station. We had planned to spend the night at this remote abandoned roadhouse. After resting a couple of hours, I decided to ride the road bike west on US41 to SR-29, the turn off to Everglades City. We spent the night on the gravel extension to the gas station.
Day 8- 3Oct- 47 miles/281 miles total: to Naples FL
This was an uneventful ride along US41, through East Naples, down 5th Avenue in Naples, right at the beach and north through Park Shore, Pelican Bay and Vanderbilt.
Day 9- 9 Oct- 17 miles/298 total miles: to Ft. Myers Beach with Betty, Beth and Brenda
Naples group
It is a beautiful Sunday morning and our FTA friends, Beth Kelso and Brenda Carneri meet Betty and I at the north end of Vanderbilt Beach. We decided to drive to Ft.Myers Beach, leave the CRV there overnight and bike back to Vanderbilt. This was a fun ride through Lovers Key State park, over bridges on Estero Bay and along Bonita Beach. We stopped at the Fish House on Bonita Beach Road for a relaxing lunch then an easy ride on to Vanderbilt.
Betty and I appreciated our friends taking the time to share a part of our long journey with us. We had a good time.
Day 10- 10 Oct- 48 miles/346 total miles: to Punta Gorda
We drove the RV to the new Cross Trails Shopping Center in Punta Gorda and I biked back to Ft. Myers Beach to the CRV we had left the day prior. I was concerned about the lack of a bike lane or shoulder along Burnt Store Road so I rode the hybrid. If traffic was really bad, I could ride in the weeds or ditch. The traffic was bad. This two lane road had a good shoulder along much of it but for over 7 miles there was not an inch of shoulder. There was a lot of heavy truck traffic but the large vehicles, especially the dump trucks waited for a break in the oncoming traffic flow to dart around me. Most cars passed about a foot or two from me in the face of oncoming traffic. Twice, cars coming from the opposite direction passed a string of vehicles and did not see me as they approached. Both times I turned off the road and into the ditch.
As I entered the Cape Coral area, the shoulder got wider, then a separate bike path appeared and all was well. At the south end of Ft. Myers Beach I found that the CRV was alive and well. It was an exhilarating day that I will not soon forget. Life is good!
Betty: While Chuck was busy biking I had a chance go get together with a good friend, Charlotte, who lives in Port Charlotte. We enjoyed a wonderful lunch and conversation in a beautiful setting on the bay. Charlotte and I went on a Baltic Cruise and Trans-Atlantic Crossing last year.
Day 11- 11 Oct- 50 miles/396 total miles: to Sarasota
While in Punta Gorda, the RV was parked a few hundred feet from the Acme Bike Shop. Ed and Patrick passed along some good tips concerning long distant riding and local routes. On their shelves they had a set of SPD pedals that I had previously special ordered from Shimano only to find that they were temporarily “out of stock”.
US 41 between Punta Gorda and Sarasota was mostly in a string of towns. Multiple lanes helped alleviate the lack of a bike lane.
We parked the RV adjacent to parking lots used by The Quay, now defunct. We had dinner at an Italian restaurant across the street.
Day 12- 12 Oct- 49 miles/445 total miles: to South Tampa; US 41 & SR 60
An uninteresting day on the road bike; mostly on a bike lane along US 41.
We moved the RV to Lazy Days RV sales in preparation to swap it for a newer model.
Day 13- 13 Oct- 6 miles/451 total miles: to Publix at Bayshore and Platt
After a lot of “RV paperwork”, I biked the 6 miles to a point along Bayshore Blvd. This will enable us to ride the bayside recreational trail along side Bayshore Blvd tomorrow.
In the evening we met Beth Lawson and Bryant, friends we had met 6 years ago in Virginia while we were all hiking the Appalachian Trial. Their trail names were “B&B”. Like us, they were hiking the AT as part of the much longer Eastern Continental Trail. We share a special bond with them and have had many good times since hiking the ECT.
We all had a great dinner at the Columbia Restaurant in Ybor City in Tampa. Good food, good friends, flamenco dancers and two pitchers of Sangria tropical fruit drink all made for a wonderful evening.
Day 14- 14 Oct- 23 miles/473 total miles: to CVS parking lot on Ulmerton in St. Pete
As planned, Betty and I met Beth Lawson near Bayshore Blvd. I stayed with the 3 bikes while Betty and Beth positioned a car about 20 miles away and drove back in the other vehicle.
It was a beautiful bike ride along the Bayshore Blvd trail. Saturday morning and walkers, runners, bikers and strollers were all enjoying the wide walkway along Bayshore. After several miles, we turned right on Gandy Road. The old Gandy bridge is now called the “Friendship Bridge” and is closed to motorized traffic. We crossed Tampa Bay, from Tampa west to St. Pete. It was pretty spectacular.
After a couple of cell calls Beth arranged for us to meet Bryant and their son Bryn for lunch at Spankys, a roadhouse that caters to bikers; we only saw the motorized type. Little Bryn, about two years old, is a cute, active kid; very smart not much gets by without his notice. An outdoor lunch and we were ready to bike. Betty and Bryn would go to our end point in the car, while Beth, Bryant and I biked. No more trails, we were back in traffic. We set a quick pace for a bunch of “fat tire” bikers and soon we ended at the CVS parking lot.
Betty and I returned to Lazy Days to meet a friend from Naples. Jim Goddard, a Naples High School classmate and long time friend was driving his RV to North Carolina and stopped to spend the evening with us. Jim said the last time he was in Tampa was about 44 years ago and he had dinner at the Columbia restaurant. It was quickly decided that we would go there again tonight. We drove through downtown Tampa, along Bayshore and just rambled. Then to a great dinner and lots of memories revisited.
Day 15- 17 Oct- 52 miles/525 total miles: to SR 52 on Sun Coast Trail
We took a couple of days off to complete our move into our new RV. Actually, it is a used vehicle but “new” to us. Late yesterday afternoon, we drove the RV north to the town of Holiday, just north of Tarpon Springs. It was dark when we parked the RV and hooked up the utilities.
Now, Tuesday morning, we meet Beth Lawson at the CVS Pharmacy parking lot. Bryant had to work and Bryn was in daycare. Betty would take care of some chores and meet us at the end of our ride.
Three miles and Beth and I turned north on the Pinellas Trail. It passed through many towns that have grown together. Every quarter mile or so we came to a 4-way stop as the trail crossed local streets. Through Largo, Clearwater and Dunedin. In Tarpon Springs we turned east off the Pinellas Trail. Some off road riding, about 10 miles of rural highway without shoulder and bike lane and we were ready for lunch. Just as our bodies were running out of fuel, a Greek sandwich shop appeared. Lots of Gator Aide and two huge sandwiches were wolfed down at a picnic table under gigantic live oak trees with Spanish moss hanging from every limb.
Rested, refreshed and refueled we knocked out three miles and turned north on the rural Sun Coast Trail. A cell phone check with Betty and we decided to meet where the Sun Coast Trail crosses SR 52.
We loaded the bikes on the CRV and Betty drove back to Beth’s car. It was a good day of biking with a good friend.
Not only is Beth Lawson a strong biker but she is also responsible for designing one of our websites. She designed and managed the website for my Yukon River trip 3 years ago. Thank You Beth!
Day 16- 18Oct- 45 miles/570 total miles: to Crystal River
After breakfast we moved the RV to the Encore Campground west of Crystal River. Betty drove this RV for the first time; she did well and felt comfortable with it.
It is a neat and spacious campground with lots of live oak trees draped with Spanish moss. We hooked up the RV and had a quick lunch and we are off to the Sun Coast Trail. This bike trail parallels the Sun Coast parkway for over 40 miles. Betty dropped me and my bike at the point Beth Lawson and I stopped yesterday. I will bike 26 miles to the north end of the Sun Coast Trail, go NW on SR 98 for 5 miles then 14 miles north on US 19 to Crystal River. Betty will drive to the trail head at the north end of the Sun Coast Trail and bike south to meet me. All goes well; we meet and bike back to the trailhead together. Along the way we notice that the pancake flat terrain of South Florida is giving way to undulations (small hills). This causes additional exertion, sweat, and benign panting but will help get the climbing muscles ready for more serious hills. Each of us has a case for our cell phone strapped on our bike within easy reach. On one hill, Betty’s sister Nancy called from Minnesota(on her way home from work). Like a good sister she noted the labored breathing and quickly ended the call. Somehow she never terminates the call due to heavy breathing when she calls late at night when we are home???
It was a hot humid afternoon, Betty had biked nearly 15 miles and drove off to get some groceries, etc. She really likes the bike trails but avoids riding with the traffic on streets and roads like the plague.
Now, the biking is done, showers enjoyed and happy hour is underway.
Day 17- 19 Oct- 49miles/619 total miles: to Chiefland
Yeoooowww! A car, only inches away, just whizzed by me at a high rate of speed while laying on the horn. Guess he was trying to make sure I was alert and oriented; it worked. Riding north on US 19, a 4-lane road with a wide median, there is no bike lane but very little traffic. This highway is straight as a string. I can see 5 miles ahead and 5 miles behind. When I was hiking, these long straight stretches were a downer; boring hours on hot pavement. Now, on a bike, the long straight miles slip by quickly, still a little boring but more fleeting than when hiking.
Lunch was at an old country/convenience store, one of two businesses at Otter Creek. The gas pumps were all out of order. I was soaked with sweat and hungry, four large dump trucks were parked outside. I reasoned that local truck drivers would know where to get a good meal. The owner, cook and cashier, Betty, served me the day’s special: a bar-b-q pork sandwich – great. I washed it down with a 2 liter bottle of Pepsi, pouring the remainder into a water bottle for later.
The truck drivers soon departed and, while paying the bill, I explained that the last time I was in Otter Creek was 45 years ago. As a student at U of F, I was hitch-hiking home with a friend. It was cold and we desperately wanted a ride. This pick-up truck stopped, the driver said one of us could ride in the cab with he and his wife and the other could ride in the back with the load of pigs. I lost the coin toss and it was a cold, odious, 34 mile ride from Gainesville to Otter Creek. Now, Betty, the cashier, gave me a strange look and said “Not much has changed”. At first I thought she was referring to the town, later I suspected she might have meant the way I smelled both times (biker sweat profusely and are usually quite aromatic) or maybe she thought my life had not improved much in 45 years – once again in Otter Creek without a car.
Back on US 19 the miles were hot and long. Chiefland would be a 50 miles ride for the day. As I entered town, I saw a VFW club with several cars in the parking lot. The thought of cold beer and air conditioning on a hot afternoon was too much.
A stranger really stands out in a small town establishment. The questions started: who, what, why. Soon I had a room full of new friends. By chance, I chose a bar stool next to the Post Commander, Charley. Jeanie was tending bar and found a cold beer for me. Her mom, Betsy, quietly bought my second and Bruce, who was waiting for his girlfriend, Judy, got the third. Jack Crowley, a navy vet, seated next to me, told me of an off-road bike trail for tomorrow’s ride. Jack and Betty, a couple across the room, gave me some tips on routes to ride through Texas.
The Post Commander asked if three of us could help him on a project outside in the parking lot. I thought we were going to ceremoniously retire the flag for the day. But not, as a joke we bounced the rear of Judy’s small car around so it was sideways in the parking spot. Back inside, I phoned my Betty to come rescue me.
Meanwhile, Betsy had called the Levy County Journal and staff. Cassie Journigan arrived to do a story about our bike trip. While chatting, Betty arrived and was immediately accepted by the group. Cassie took us outside for some pictures with our bikes.
Inside, Rose and Judy returned from someplace, Joe and Kathy were preparing to depart, “Ace”, aka Dennis, arrived to help with tending bar and Wayne sat quietly at the corner of the bar. After returning the favor to all my “drink donors”, Betty and I bid everyone farewell and drove back to the RV at Crystal River.
It seems that the best part of every trip we have taken has been the people.
Day 18- 20 Oct- 17 miles/636 total miles: Cross City to Tennille
There is a Rail-to-Trail bike path (Nature Coast Trail) leading north out of Chiefland to Cross City. We decided not to ride that trail today, but will save it for tomorrow when Beth Kelso will join us. Betty likes to ride on bike paths so all three of us will have 20 plus miles off of the highway. Today, I will skip ahead and ride the 17 miles from Cross City to Tennille. These miles went by quickly.
Betty drove the RV to the Chiefland RV Park and soon we were hooked-up and looking forward to the evening. Rodger and Lynn Warren will be joining us for dinner. They are good friends who were stationed with us in Germany in the ‘70s. Last January Lynn and Rodger moved to Williston, which is less than 30 miles from here.
As the evening unfolded, Beth arrived at the Homestead Restaurant in Fanning Springs only minutes after Lynn, Rodger, Betty and I. It was good to reminisce about the great times in Dexheim,Germany. Beth was a good sport and acted as if we were not boring her.
We must be aging (not Beth, of course); there was no beer at the restaurant and we all headed for home by 10pm.
Day 19- 21 Oct- 25 miles/661 total miles: Cross City to Chiefland
This morning as we loaded the bikes on Beth’s car, we met Mary Ruth and Loma, bikers from Citrus County. They gave us lotsa tips on biking in this area; sensible advice, like don’t ride your road bike (thin tire) off the pavement because the abundance of sandspurs will cause flats.
Beth drove us to Cross City. Velma, at a convenience store arranged with Teresa at the restaurant next door for us to park between the two buildings. The three of us had a very pleasant 20 plus miles ride on the Nature Coast Trail. We saw many other riders and a few walkers and runners on this paved trail. When we crossed the Suwannee River on the old railroad trestle, we stopped to get some pictures and watch the river flow beneath the bridge. Almost immediately, Beth spotted a huge fish that looked a lot like a Shark. It must have been nearly 6 ft long; we suspected it was a large Sturgeon. A walker approached and Bernice Harvey, a local resident, agreed that it was most likely a Sturgeon. She told us a bit about the river and started walking back the way she came to meet her husband.
A group of riders from a Withlacoochee bicycle club stopped at the bridge. One couple rode a tandem recumbent, they were an interesting couple. Their accent hinted of England.
We stopped in Fanning Springs for Bar-B-Q pork sandwiches at Huckleberry’s. Great!
Entering Chiefland, Betty stopped at the RV to walk the dogs. Beth and I rode a mile or so farther to link-up with the point I had ridden to 2 days earlier, the VFW. Inside we found Bruce, and others in the uniforms they had worn while marching in the Cedar Key parade earlier. I showed Bruce my VFW membership card since he had vouched for me last Friday. We had some lively conversation, filling them in on our recent progress. We left before the drinks and more questions started flowing.
Back at the RV we all got cleaned up and drove to the Cedar Key Seafood Festival. It had been about 48 years since I had been to Cedar Key. We walked through this quaint town, checked out many of the craft vendors and returned to the RV. It was a good day.
Day 20- 22 Oct- 25 miles/686 total miles: to Perry
As we drove north on US 19, Beth got out in Cross City to retrieve her car which we left there yesterday morning. She followed us to Tennille where she again left her car and rode on to Perry with us. After a fruitless search of Perry for Nafee Campground we settled for the KOA. We all had lunch and Beth and I biked back to her car in Tennille; it was a comfortably fast paced 25 miles.
With the bikes on Beth’s car we drove back to Perry. Our plan was to have Betty drive us 10-15 miles north on US 221 and Beth and I would ride back to Perry. A thunder storm changed our minds and we returned to the RV even before we had gotten out of Perry. Beth showed us how to make “rum runners” out of common ingredients found in the kitchen; plus rum.
Day 21- 23 Oct- 54 miles/740 total miles: to Quitman, GA
We left Beth’s car at the KOA Campground in Perry,FL and drove the RV 54 miles to Quitman,GA. We found an abandoned gas station near the city square to park the RV. Betty stayed there with the two dogs while Beth and I pedaled back to Perry. It was a cool morning and a brisk few miles until we got warmed up. We were on Us 221, a beautiful route with a bike lane along most of it. The rural countryside was picturesque; live oak trees, farms, cotton fields and little traffic. Rolling hills and gentle curves kept the route interesting and enjoyable. Beth set a comfortable pace and soon we were in Perry and still feeling good. We loaded the bikes on her car and she drove us back to Quitman, it seemed like a long drive.
Betty had our little “dry camp” set-up, we showered and went to the Coyoacan Mexican Restaurant a couple of blocks away. Back at the RV we turned the furnace on for the first time. All us South Florida folks found the weather a little chilly.
Day 22- 24 Oct- 41 miles/781 total miles: to Moultrie, GA
It was cool again this morning, 35 degrees. We packed up our little “dry camp” (meaning no RV hook-ups) and prepared to move the rig north to Tifton. Beth made arrangements to leave her car parked at a fire station only half-a-block away. Tifton is on I-75, about 20 miles east of our bike route, but, it has a campground with full hook-ups and it positions us to move to Cordele,GA the following day.
Our good friends, Marybeth and Clay Kelley have recently bought a home a few miles west of Cordele. We are looking forward to spending a little time with them and maybe have them joining us for a few bike miles. Clay was a supply officer at Camp Zama, Japan when we were stationed there 25 years ago. We have kept in contact every since.
Betty dropped Beth and me north of Moultrie. We would bike south to Quitman while Betty drove back to the RV in Tifton. She wanted to do some special cooking and some cleaning in the RV.
The ride south on SR-133 then SR-333 was cool and hilly. The first 20 miles went fast and almost effortlessly. Somewhere along the way, it seemed the wind shifted from a quartering tailwind to a headwind and some of the hills got steeper. We had large cotton fields all around us. It is harvest time and many of the fields were white as snow waiting to be picked. The mechanical pickers looked much like self-propelled corn pickers with pointed chutes to pick 4 rows at a time.
Mid-afternoon we arrived in Quitman and were greeted by three firemen asking questions about our trip. Beth asked them where we could find a bakery. Today is Betty’s birthday and I wanted to find a freshly baked carrot cake with lots of icing.
Back at the rig, Betty had a great meal with bar-b-q ribs and sweet potatoes. Beth, the self-proclaimed “Birthday Gestapo” insured that singing, cake, candle, gifts and cards all flowed according to plan. Happy Birthday Betty!
We crashed early.
Day 23- 25Oct- 21 miles/802 total miles: to Sylvester, GA
After the wild party last night, we decided to “sleep-in” this morning. Actually, we were all up before 7am, but, we took our time with breakfast and some other chores.
The plan was for Beth and I to take both cars and “self-support” today’s ride. Betty would clean the RV, prepare the Ichabod Crane Dinner for this evening and drive the RV to Clay and Marybeth Kelley’s.
While leaving cars for the self-supported shuttle, I had a cell phone message from Betty’s brother saying that their dad was being rushed to a hospital inIowa. It sounded very serious; I tried to call Betty but no answer. I decided that Beth and I should go back to the RV to ensure contact with Betty and be prepared to respond to whatever emergency that developed. We were nearly back to the RV when Betty called to say her dad was responding but they were doing tests to figure out what had happened. The hospital had determined that he could go home and be monitored at home. OK, good news, turn around, leave a car inMoultrie,GA, again, drive to Sylvester so we can bike back toMoultrie. Before the day was over, we had put over 160 miles on both cars; this support role is not simple.
After a delayed start and all the driving it was after 1pm by the time we started riding; beautiful countryside with cotton fields and peanut fields along the way. I felt half exhausted before we started and the hills left a “heavy” feeling in my legs. Finally, we got toMoultrie and drove back through Sylvester to pick up Beth’s car and on to Clay and Marybeth’s about 7 miles west of Cordele.
Meanwhile, Betty had packed up the RV and driven to Clay and Marybeth’s house. Clay had a 30 amp outlet in his driveway just waiting for us.
Ahhh! A hot shower, cold beer, dear friends, and a good meal make life a real joy.
From Betty: I talked with my brother and sister about my Dad’s condition. It seems the doctors aren’t able to determine what happened, however, his blood pressure was extremely low (30 something). He has very low blood pressure all the time, but this dropped even lower. They are still testing and he is wearing a heart monitor which will be read late tomorrow. My brother and sister said they saw no reason for me to come back as he is back home and having no problem.
I packed up the RV and drove up the interstate to Cordele. Even though it was only about 40 miles of interstate driving – there was 14 miles of construction. You know – the kind with the concrete barriers – and me in a new RV I’m not used to. Oh, well, we made it. I was glad to see Clay and Mary Beth outside and ready to guide me into their driveway. It was really great to see them and have a chance to relax and start our visit.
Day 24- 26 Oct- 40 miles/842 total miles: to Cordele, GA (Clay and Marybeth’s)
Breakfast with the Kelley’s, cool morning, Clay loads our bikes in the back of his pick-up and drives Beth and I to Sylvester.
There is a chill in the air as we start pedaling north. We just glided through the miles. At one break, Beth walked into a peanut field that had just been harvested and came back with a few samples, her first experience with raw peanuts. Later, we had some recently fallen pecans, another first for her.
We had lunch at the Pecan Restaurant inWarwick; good food, friendly service and low price. Within minutes after lunch, we missed a turn that Clay had carefully pointed out to us. About 5 miles later we realized we had missed the closest route. The next best choice cost us about 7 extra miles of riding. Oh well, everything about the ride today felt good. It was an easy pace, few hills, little traffic and picture perfect scenery.
This is harvest time here for both cotton and peanuts. One of the huge peanut diggers came slowly up behind us on the highway. This monster nearly fills two lanes. It was only going a couple of miles an hour faster than us, so it took a long time for it to pass. A large chute extended high over our heads as it slowly passed us. It and the string of cars behind it had no more than passed until another came by. Thankfully, these equipment operators were very careful and courteous, waiting until it was clear to pass and giving us a wide berth. We also found nearly all of the drivers in this area to be quite safety conscious.
Shortly after arriving at the Kelley’s home, Peggy, a local reporter, arrived to interview Betty and I. Marybeth had arranged the meeting. Peggy took some notes and a couple of pictures.
Happy hour in the RV with rum-runners by Beth, dinner in the house with wild hog prepared by Clay and all the trimmings by Marybeth. After dinner a DVD of “Oh Brother, Where Art Thou” with George Clooney kept us in stitches.
Betty, Chuck, Clay and MaryBeth
Day 25- 27 Oct- 37 miles/879 total miles: to Plains, GA
It is a rainy day: to ride or not to ride?? The weather forecast is for light rain, at times heavy showers and the possibility of thunderstorms. As I put my biking clothes on I am uncertain if riding is a good idea. Clay and Marybeth depart to work on the SAM Shortline train. They volunteer at Veteran’s State Park which includes a train running from Cordele to Plains, GA. They suggested that I ride to Plains and load my bike on the return run. Since we are parked in their driveway we would get off the train at Veteran’s Park, just a mile or two from their home. Betty would ride the train to Plains and we would meet there and have lunch before returning. What a great plan, I really want this to work. OK, there is a break in the rain showers that have been with us all night and into the morning. I quickly say good-bye to Betty with plans to meet her in Plains before 1:30pm and remember that Beth is returning toNaples,FLtoday. The last two nights she has stayed in the Kelley’s house and is now on the phone. I step in to signal good-bye and ride away. She has been with us now for a week, nearly on-third of the trip and seems to be a real part of the journey. What is it with “Beths”, both Beth Lawson and now Beth Kelso have been very strong riders and pushed me faster and farther than I might have gone on my own. I am a better rider because of them. Thanks to you both!
Light rain, thankfully warmer temps and mostly flat terrain. I glide along to Americus,GA and find some hills in the middle of town. Cannot get past a Krystal hamburger establishment; it is dry, warm and smells great. A cute young black waitress namedCrystalserves up two small Krystal hamburgers.
It is a bit of a climb out ofAmericus, but then the pedaling is easier again. I stopped for a break alongside a peanut field. This field was in the process of being harvested. The peanuts, which grew underground, have been mechanically dug up and lay exposed on their roots in rows throughout the field. After a few days of drying they will be scooped up by a machine that shakes the earth from them and separates them from the roots and stems then shoots them into a wagon with high sideboards. I taste a couple; pretty good, but they’ll be better when boiled, fried or roasted.
There is no bike lane as I pedal west along US-280, I hold close to the white line on the right side. Drivers are courteous and give me as much clearance as they can. Hoping to be more visible, I have attached a bright, flashing red light on the back of my bike.
A red pick-up truck slows and honks when passing, then pulls over to a stop in front of me. A young man greets me like he knows me, then says “Sorry, I thought you were the Pastor”. Apparently, a local pastor is a biker and Casey Bearden had stopped to talk with him. We introduced ourselves and I found that Casey was learning to be a “grader”. He inspects lumber and rates it according to quality. He said he is learning how to grade manually by sight and feel, but, that much of the grading is now done by computer. Every board is x-rayed to check for worm activity, other damage and strength. They work mostly with pine and are an important part of the timber industry.
Plains, GA is the home of President Jimmy Carter. I arrive at 11:30am and have about two hours before the SAM Train arrives with Betty, Clay and Marybeth. The Carter Museum in his old High School building is interesting, as is the ride around their current residence. The Secret Service guards a fence around the home that the Carters have lived in since 1961 (except when in the Governors Mansion and the White House.
Chuck biking with President and Mrs. Carter
At the corner store I meet Braxton Mallard. He is in his seventies and is wearing a US Army, retired hat. He salutes as he introduces himself. I return his greeting and we immediately hit it off. A veteran of Korea and Vietnam he has lots of stories. He greets a shopper named Betty then tells me that he is the “Town Troublemaker” as he gets a devilish grin. He remembers the Trans Continental Trailride that I was on 11 years ago when we rode through Plains. Introducing me to Elaine, a young lady with sparkling eyes and a happy smile, he then tells us a story his father used to tell. “Two men were arguing when one says ‘the town is having a contest and the winner gets a free bag of groceries and I want you to leave town now so that I will win the bag of groceries for being the Ugliest Man in Town”.
The train arrives on time and Clay has arranged to store my bike in the generator car; it is quite loud and piercing. The four of us have lunch at the “Old Bank Café” on the main street in Plains. It is an old bank, complete with a vault. Bunches of other train passengers are having lunch or shopping in downtown Plains. Many of them recognize Clay and Marybeth and stop to speak with them.
Back on the train we are returning to Veteran’s Park and Cordele. Clay made a few arrangements and soon, he and I, were in the engine compartment with the engineer. This was most interesting, the first time I had been in the engine of a moving train. The engineer, Dave, explained some of the more important controls and answered all my questions. A real thrill!
Back at the Kelley’s, a hot shower and dry clothes make the world look a little better. Betty makes a salad and we join Clay and Marybeth for cocktails, good cheer and great meatloaf.
What a special day!
From Betty: We have had such a wonderful time here in Cordele. This morning Clay and Marybeth left early to board the train at Veteran’s Park and ride to Cordele to pick up some passengers, then back to Veteran’s to pick up more passengers.
Beth was leaving this am to head back toNaples. We’ve enjoyed having her with us for this week and she and Chuck have been steadily pumping out the miles. We had a brief chat and I bid her farewell and left for Veteran’s to board the train at 10am. I had a chance to meet the special folks who volunteer and work for the train system. This train makes many different runs along the tracks between Cordele and Archery, GA. They have many special trips that are planned during the year and also for special holidays. I rode the train several months ago in the evening when they had a “dinner train” trip. Over President’s weekend, they make a trip toSavannah,GAand back. Today was very special, with a special group of folks and our wonderful friends – Clay and Marybeth. Plan on traveling on the SAM Shortline Train when you are inGeorgia!
Our time to depart has come too swiftly!
Day 26- 28 Oct- 50 miles/929 miles total: to Georgetown, GA
After a restless night we were awakened by the truck engine idling out of the driveway as Clay and Marybeth left for another full day of volunteer work on the SAM Shortline train. They work two days each week and on special occasions. Marybeth works in the commissary car and is training to be a conductor, the most esteemed position on the train. Clay has this great “do-nothing” job which he actually created. He is “SAM”, the “train host”. He dresses the part with bib overalls, pin-striped hat and red neckerchief. He really looks like a seasoned brakeman or engineer. He knows how to do nearly every job on the train and just roams around making the passengers feel welcome and helping out anyplace he is needed. This niche of a job is so much like Clay that it is unbelievable. He is a natural for it.
As they back out of the driveway, I rush outside to say good-bye before they leave. Too late, their tail lights disappear in the darkness. The rain has stopped and stars fill the sky. I give the Kelley’s a call on the cell phone and thank them for the wonderful stay at their new home.
Before departing, Betty and I place a graphic sign high on the back of the RV. We had the sign made in Key Largo but waited until we traded RVs inTampa, then waited until we had two ladders. Clay got his ladder ready a couple of days ago but it has been raining ever since. Now is the time. It looks good; we may go into the sign installation business.
Betty dropped me in Plains, Georgia as she drove through on her way to Eufaula, Alabama. The town ofPlains is on wide level terrain, however, only a few miles west, I enter a roller-coaster of hills. Long ups and down that seem to be endless; plus, for the first time on this trip, significant headwinds. The wind was out of the west so it was somewhat shielded as I climbed the long hills but slowed me considerably on the exposed down hill side. It was only about 15 knots but it is psychologically depressing to have to pedal to go down hill. I would try to go downhill as fast as possible to have momentum to start up the next hill. The momentum quickly faded and would start shifting down but I would always run out of gears before I ran out of hills. Geez, this is only southernGeorgia, what will happen when we get to serious hills. What about the Rocky Mountains, the Sierra Nevadas, Cascades, Canadian Rockies, Chugash and more? I need a lot more lower gears – or maybe a motor.
Betty unhitched the CRV in Georgetown, Georgia and left it at a gas station for me. She then drove the RV across the bridge and Lake Eufaula into Alabama and to a Corps of Engineer campground.
Finally, a downhill run ended atGeorgetown. It was only a few miles drive toWhiteOak CreekPark. Great campsite right on the water. Geese were honking as the sun faded. After a good meal of leftover Ichabod stew, I faded too.
Betty: Clay and Marybeth left this morning to work on the SAM train again. We had intended to be up before their departure, however our alarm, once again, didn’t go off.
We’ve had such a wonderful time here. The food, the reminiscing, the camaraderie, the wonderful site are awesome. Wow! Thanks!!! Clay and Marybeth.
Chuck and I worked on getting our new graphic sign on the RV. We did it and it looks great!! Now when people see the RV they will know what we are up to. We have a graphic on the car and on the RV.
We departed Clay and Marybeth’s home and drove to Plains, GA where Chuck got out and got his bike ready to go.
I departed with the RV towing the car. We are into hills now!!! I had planned a route to drive to Eufaula,AL, however I altered the route a bit. I had planned to drive some county roads, but the hills were so intense I decided to go on State roads where there is a little more width. I think it was a wise decision. I pulled into the Corp of Engineer RV Park just south of Eufaula. This park is incredible. The lake is beautiful and the sites are right on the lake. We’ll definitely want to make it back here.
Corps of Engineer Park near Eufala, AL
Day 27- 29 Oct- 26 miles/ 955 total miles: to Clayton, AL
Sunday morning, a light day of biking, we caught up on some traveling chores. Sunny and cool this morning but by noon warm enough to have lunch outside by the lake.
We drove a few miles back to the point I left off at yesterday. Betty was riding with me as we passed the Alabama State Line. The terrain was much like yesterday, lots of hills, but, no wind. Even with several breaks the 26 miles only took a couple of hours.
It is interesting that we crossed into the Central Time Zone on the same day that clocks are turned back an hour as we go off Daylight Savings Time. This resulted in a two hour change for us. Now instead of it getting dark about 7pm it is 5pm. We must be aware of that as we plan each day’s schedule. We do not want to be riding after it gets dark.
Earlier we had seen an inviting restaurant called “Old Mexico”, we drove there this evening for dinner – it was closed. Right or wrong, we attributed their Sunday closure to the area’s alcohol sales ban on Sunday. Betty figured no margaritas, no Mexican food. We found an old hotel restaurant called Cajun Corner. It was good but different for us. Betty had shrimp stuffed with crawfish and topped with mozzarella, plus Crawfish Etoffee Soup. My meal was all rolled in Cajun spice and deep fried: eggplant sticks, Cajun popcorn (small crawfish), and fried pickles along with red beans and rice.
Now we’re stuffed and tired, time to crash.
Day 28- 30 Oct- 41 miles/996 total miles: to Troy, AL
We packed up to move out of our beautiful lakeside campsite. Betty dropped me inClayton,ALthen drove off toTroy, the day’s destination.
Over hill and dale, south on State Road 51, west on SR10. Light winds, biker friendly hills, little traffic, these rural roads are a joy. A quick stop at a store in the small town ofLouisvillefor a snack, revealed: “no comprenda”. The patrons spoke only Spanish; the clerk spoke about as much English as I did Spanish. Not a good combination. We had a delightful conversation, including a lot of one and two work sentences and mucho animation. Apparently there are a number of Mexican families living in many communities in this area. These are not migrant workers but permanent residents.
The last eleven miles of the day were treacherous. When I turned north on US-231, the traffic increased dramatically. There was a wide shoulder lane but it was deeply serrated and not rideable. Betty picked me up at the intersection with US-29. Tomorrow, we will take US-29 southwest to Andalusia. She had located a great spot for the RV at Deer Run Campground, just north ofTroy.
Matt Clower, a reporter from the Troy Messenger stopped by the RV to ask about our trip and the connection with the American Cancer Society (ACS). He told us that Troy went all out to support the ACS Relay for Life.
It was a good day, gotta go now. The Vikings are playing the Patriots on Monday night football. I know that back in Lime Springs, Iowa Terry Miller will be quietly rooting for Minnesota. Don’t call, don’t talk and don’t get between Terry and the TV, also keep a clear lane to the refrigerator. Good Luck Terry, right now your team is behind seven to zip.
Day 29- 31 Oct- 55 miles/105 total miles: to Andalusia, AL
We are leaving another beautiful campsite. We struck camp and Betty dropped me at the intersection of US-231 and US-29. I started riding west on US-29, a few minutes later Betty drove by me with the RV towing the CRV. She is really getting quite confident handling that long rig. She will look for a place to camp near Andalusia,AL. It can be a little intimidating heading to a new place and not knowing exactly where. Sorting it out on the fly is fine in a car, or even with two people in the RV, but, for one person it is a challenge.
Along the way several people honked at me and a few waved. After about 10 miles, I took a break at a convenience store with gas pumps near Goshen,AL. As I was getting off the bike, a black man about my age eased his nice looking pick-up over toward me. With a smirk on his face he asked, “Are you Chuck Wilson?” I told him I was and asked who he was and should I know him. I thought he might be someone I had known in the Army, years ago. He said his name was John and he had seen my picture on the front page of the local paper. I asked him if I was “Wanted” or was it just a slow news day. He reckoned that it was a slow news day and smiled. He showed me the newspaper and explained that he would give it to me but now that he met me he would read the entire article instead of only the title and caption.
After a quart of PowerAde and a large bag of Cape Cod chips, I was on my way again. US-29 is a good road for biking, two lanes with no shoulders, but the lanes are wide and there is little traffic. It is a rural area and I still see a few cotton fields and peanut fields but not nearly so many as a few days back. Now, I see more beef cattle and hay. Also, a lot of trucks with freshly cut pine logs pass me. I heard a plane spraying crops but it was beyond the trees, unlike the one Beth and I saw that was spraying defoliant on a cotton field alongside our road and it seemed that it was dive bombing us.
It was lunch time as I passed through Luverne. Betty and I rode horses through Luverne over eleven years ago, we remembered it as a very friendly town. A big-Mac was calling me. I locked my bike to the kiddie playground fence and went in to order. The cute young lady who waited on me made small talk as my order was being prepared. Her name was Lisa. Seconds later she and another young waitress came to my table and asked about the bike trip. They had seen the “Key West to Alaska” logo on the back of my tee-shirt. After a short explanation and some questions, they went back to work. Soon Lisa was back with her McDonald hat in her hand. She showed me a half-dozen or so little pins that she had earned through the McDonald training system. She wanted me to take one “for luck”, I resisted but she insisted so I asked her to choose the one. It is a very nice little magnetic pin with only the familiar “big M” on it. I thanked her and gave her a card with our web address. But wait, there is more! While cleaning up the debris on my table, a man approached. It was the owner, Mark Waters. We talked about the bike trip and the American Cancer Society. Before he left he gave me a McDonald hat, tee-shirt and four books of gift certificates. I promised to let him know our progress from time to time. It was a good feeling to meet such nice folks. Laverne is still a very friendly town.
Betty called to say she had found a spot to dry camp behind a Chevron station and convenience store. Back on the bike, more miles, more hills, a few short breaks and viola – there was Betty with the RV. She had just returned from a grocery store. As I put my bike away she was moving bags into the RV. She went to step out backward and fell, glanced off the car door and landed on the crushed rock in the parking lot. Fortunately, there was no major damage. Her right hand and wrist still hurt and she cannot grip well with that hand. Tomorrow she will probably have a few bruises and may not be able to drive the RV because of her wrist injury.
The “doctor” prescribed two glasses of wine and lots of rest.
From Betty: Peggy Weathers, the manager of the Chevron station, was nice enough to give us permission to park in their back lot. It’s right on our route and makes the logistics much easier. We can usually “dry camp” (no hook-ups) for a couple of nights but then like to have hook-ups to refill the water tank and dump the gray and black water tanks.
I didn’t drive the RV this am and it’s probably a good thing since when I started to type the log I had to switch to the left hand hunt and peck method. It’s probably a sprain from trying to break my fall.