5 April
After leaving Beijing we traveled North-Northwest through a mountainous area and up onto the high Gobi Desert. This dry, dusty, windy plateau was blamed for the poor air quality in Beijing during the 2008 Olympics. Jerry, Linda and I all suspect the dirt is the cause of our chronic cough which we cannot seem to shake. Fortunately for Jerry and Linda, they have not suffered the recurring chills and fever that has locked onto me.
Ulan-Baatar, the capitol of Mongolia, is located just north of the Gobi Desert in the north-central part of the country. Our first impression is somewhat of a contrast. It appears to be a small, very isolated city in the highest and most remote third world country on earth. However, signs of their struggle into the “modern world” are everywhere. Dozens of high construction cranes jut skyward, decaying buildings stand next to the dramatic architecture of twenty-story hotels and office buildings. Our guide meets us at the train station and has the driver cram all our luggage then the eight of us plus the driver and her into an 11 passenger van. As Betty so often repeated in the following days, “Any idiot would know a bigger van was needed”. Betty – In looking back on it, the tour operator and I had discussed transportation, so I have to bear some of the responsibility – I had not realized they have no luggage area, as we do in most vans/buses in the states. But yes, I was frustrated, as I had arranged everything and took it personally. It was not until we unloaded, that I realized that Jerry had to stand, bent over the whole way. Our guide is TJ – TJ said we better let our tour operator know we needed larger transportation. She is a contract guide and has nothing to do with the transportation arrangements. TJ attended the University of Ulan-Baatar majoring in tourism, many on the Ulan-Baatar Hotel staff speak passable English.
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It’s morning on the Gobi Dessert. Miles and miles and miles of nothing. No trees, no people, no animals. Then a little settlement of one story brick buildings and yerts. Why would you live out here? Desolate, cold, and dry.
Check out the State Department Store on Peace Ave. and Khan’s Ger on Baga Toiruu. Did that! Not so great, but I got a cheap glass cup to use for tea, beer, or soup on the train. We had a nice happy hour in Betty and Chuck’s room. Very happy. Then I had an excellent Monte Cristo for supper. Later I had a double Drambui for dessert, and made a “smart ass” remark to a guy wearing sun glasses in the bar – very stupid! And another day of my excellent adventure ends. Fran
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6 April
Our guide shows us some of the sights of the city. We visit a “working” monastery. Orange clad monks go about their daily chores and young boys study and chant in unison. A huge square in the center of the city honors Mongolia’s two greatest heros: Ghengis Khan (Chingis Khan here) and Sukhbaatar. As every American school child knows; Ghengis Khan and his Mongol army invaded and ruled over 75% of the known world from China on the Pacific to Turkey at the edge of Europe. The grand-son of Ghengis, Kubla Khan, actually moved the capital of the Mongol empire and ruled from Beijing, China. (The tours in China quickly glossed over this tidbit of their history). The other Mongolian hero, not well known to most Americans is Sukhbaatar, a fearless warrior and expert horseman, who led Mongol forces in 1921 to gain their independence from the “Manchu” (Manchuria) and China. Fortuitously, at the end of WWI, as allied powers were restructuring the world order, Mongolia was recognized as an independent country. Sukhbaatar died a year later, at age 27, of undetermined causes, and lives on as a national hero.
Early evening we are back at the Ulan-Baatar train station. We have previously made arrangements to upgrade our 2 four-berth compartments to 4 four-berth compartments, but we will own all the berths. The compartments and toilets are clean but not to the standard of our previous experience.
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We checked out Ulan (Red) Bataar (Hero). First we wemt to a Buddhist temple. This religion came to Mongolia by way of Tibet. It seems diffferent from Chinese Buddhism. It was severly suppressed in Communist times but now has revived. Sixty percent of those claiming a faith are Buddhist. Islam is the next most important faith, but the majority of young people say they are secular (much like China). From the temple, we go to a fine arts museum. In this culture the main mediums are wood block prints, painting on silk, and silk embroidery and applique. The needlework is truly amazing. Some metal casting is also nicely done. Our guide gave us some interesting side lights on Chingas Khan and his successors as well as the modern complexities facing Mongolia. We got to visit a ger and we were allowed to take a picture of a little girl and give both her and her father gifts of chocolate. Stopped by a cashmere and camel hair shop. Did a little damage there! Fran