Spell of the Wild

Appalachian Trail Journal Index

Springer Mountain, Georgia to Baxter Peak (Katahdin), Maine

• 5/1/00 Springer Mountain, Georgia
• 5/15/00 Davenport Gap, Tennessee
• 6/1/00 Mt. Rogers, Virginia
• 6/15/00  Long Mountain, Virginia
• 7/1/00  Harpers Ferry, West Virginia
• 7/15/00  Little Gap, Pennsylvania
• 8/1/00  Berkshires in Massachusetts
• 8/15/00  Off the trail for ten days
• 9/1/00  Pinkham Notch, New Hampshire
• 9/15/00  Shirley Blanchard Rd, Maine
• 9/22/00  Katahdin

Saturday  1 Apr 00   8 miles/1557 total.  FR 55 to FR 500.  97 Trail Days.

Since I survived the trail hike yesterday, we thought we would do it again today.

The trail went up a long rocky ridge and peaked at Dugger Mountain.  This is a beautiful, rather remote area that has steep climbs to both the north and south of the ridge.  Two wild turkey made a hasty exit as I rounded a bend in the trail.  On the approach up the ridge, I spotted something reflecting in the sunlight.  About a hundred feet above the trail was some debris from a light plane crash.  It was partly covered with dead leaves and had been there for a year or more.  Engine parts, the tip of a wing and various pieces of twisted metal were evidence that some poor guy had not quite cleared the ridgeline.

The short hike to FR 500 was very enjoyable.  Rick and Katherine Dougan drove up a couple minutes after I arrived at the trailhead.  Katherine told me that all the traffic on this off-the-beaten-path forest road was due to a dedication ceremony that was held about three miles down the road.  Dugger Mountain was being officially accepted as a Wilderness Area.  She said that at the same time I was hiking across Dugger Mountain, it was the backdrop for a large gathering of politicians, environmentalists and concerned citizens at the dedication.  Rick and I had a lot of the same interests; we all had an interesting chat for about a half hour.  I learned a lot about the area from this active local couple.

Sunday  4/2/00   0 miles/1557 total.    Rest Day.    98 Trail Days.

We moved the RV from the Forest Service campsite at Colman Lake to a commercial campground at Cedar Creek near Cave Springs, GA.  This was about a 60 miles drive in a rain that continued until mid-afternoon then started again in the evening.

Now that I am about “cured”, Betty is not doing well.  Her symptoms are similar to what I experienced, but she has not had the vomiting and intense abdominal pains.  Our current diagnosis (third) is that I did indeed have the flu and now Betty has it and I feel much better, thank you very much.  Our method of getting a second medical opinion is to wait a day and guess again.

The afternoon was spent organizing maps, selecting pictures requested by the Florida Trail Association and planning the route from the Pinhoti Trail to the Benton MacKaye Trail and on to the Appalachian Trail.  We are currently about two weeks behind our desired schedule.  All these days off with the “affliction” have taken their toll.

Monday  4/3/00   0 miles/1557 total.  Rest Day.  99 Trail Days.

The rain and thunderstorms continued throughout the night.  By morning, Cedar Creek, which is about 100 feet back of the RV, was out of its bank in places.  The campsite owner probably thought I was a “nervous nellie” when I told him we wanted to relocate to a nearby site that was about six feet higher, but he said fine.  When I told him Betty wasn’t feeling well he said absolutely everybody he knows has had a devastating flu within the past few weeks.

Even though anxious to get back on the trail, today is not the day.  Betty spent the day in bed and by mid-afternoon the rain which had subsided for a few hours was increasing again.  Tornado and flash flood warnings were issued for our area.  Some roads were closed and events were canceled in communities nearby.  Betty slept through most of this, but always seemed to rally when the radio issued a tornado or flood warning.  She especially liked the ones that advised mobile home and RV occupants to get out of their vehicles???

Betty:  I’m typing this on Tuesday morning.  I’m feeling much better, Chuck is out on the trail.  Cedar Creek (which is behind us) still hasn’t crested.  The picnic tables are under water and some of the RV’s,  back in the row nearest the creek, have water up to within a foot of their back tires.  That’s too close for me!!  When I took Chuck out to the trail this morning.  The area near where he will be hiking was hit by a tornado yesterday or last night – good thing I was sick!!

Tuesday  4/4/00   16 miles/1573 total.     100 Trail Days.   FR 500 to US 278.

It rained and stormed all night, but by morning it started to ease off a bit.  The forecast is much better today than it has been for the past several days, cloudy and cool by mid-morning.  We’re going hiking.

On the way to the trailhead, Betty drove through a lot of areas that showed storm and water damage.  County work crews must have been out all night.  Trees that were blocking the roads just hours earlier, had been cut and pulled to the side enough to allow vehicles to pass.  Power company trucks and telephone crews were all working to restore service to remote communities tucked back in these low mountains.  Police were guarding one area that had been devastated by a tornado.  Later, I heard that a lady in a mobile home was killed.  Low lying areas were flooded and water rushing down steep slopes had covered the roadway with mud and rocks in some places.

Now, before Terry Miller (Betty’s sister’s husband, who is a heavy equipment operator in Howard County, Iowa) gets a big head about the county crews out saving the modern world, I’ve got to digress to a related story.  While hiking through Pike County, Alabama a few weeks ago, I saw five county workers up ahead of me.  All of them were gathered around the back of a pick-up truck and several pieces of heavy equipment were parked nearby.  As I got closer, I reached for my camera and said I would get a shot of “Pike County” in action.  Before I could get the camera up to my eye, these guys walked off in all directions as if they had some signal to “scatter”.  Anyway, the crews in Cherokee County, Alabama were earning their pay this week.

Betty dropped me where the Pinhoti Trail crosses Forest Road 500.  The trail was wet and muddy, I wore my rain parka and was glad my boots had been sealed recently.  About an hour into the hike, I rounded a corner and saw trash bags and other debris strewn about a small area on the steep hillside.  Closer inspection showed it was someone’s camping gear.  I began to realize someone could be in trouble.  As I stood in front of two torn trash bags that were draped so as to make a sort of vertical cocoon, I asked if anyone was there.  They separated a bit and a face peered out.  “Oh, thank goodness,” said Nina Baxley.  She had been caught in a flash flood the previous afternoon.  After her tent was flooded, she tried to relocate to a better site, but was trapped between two dangerous mountain streams.  She was knocked off her feet while attempting to cross and was swept away by the force of the flood water rushing down the mountain.  She managed to grab some limbs and pull herself and her pack to the side.  Her tent and her hiking poles were gone in an instant.  Though totally soaked, she survived being washed down the side of the mountain.  If her head had hit a rock, she would have surely drowned.  She actually made it through the night quite well, even with wet clothes, wet gear and unrelenting rain all night.  The temperature was in the forties and hypothermia was a real danger.  Her makeshift shelter and top quality gear kept her above the danger level.  She had the presence of mind to make hot tea when she started to get chilled and she kept nibbling on high energy snacks.

I offered her dry warm clothes, but she only took the dry socks to keep from getting blisters as we hiked on to the nearest road.  Having been soaked for over twelve hours, her feet were bound to be tender.  While Nina packed her wet gear, I searched downstream for her tent and hiking poles.  Amazingly, the tent, with fly attached, went nearly a quarter mile before getting trapped in some deadfall.  Other than being full of debris, the tent seemed to have survived.

Nina hiked on with me, about five miles, to the first road, CR 94, and waited there while I hiked eight more miles to meet Betty.  I saw about a dozen wild turkeys scurrying around near the trail, but I was in high gear and never attempted a picture.  All the little mountain streams were swollen and required more care than normal in crossing.  A couple of them required fording, so I removed my boots, eased across and was on my way.  Fortunately, Betty was already at the trailhead on US 278.  We then drove back to retrieve Nina and the gear she had been drying during the day.  After a hot shower back at the RV, Nina joined us for some tacos that Betty whipped up.  Nina said she had never eaten four tacos at one meal before.  She slept well too!!

Betty:  On Tuesday I was feeling much better and glad I hadn’t been well on Monday since we would have been in the area of the flash flood and tornado.  My plan for Tuesday was to drop Chuck off and then go by the Cave Springs library to post the web site and check our e-mail messages.  It takes about 10 minutes of telephone time to post the web site and check messages.  Well, nothing has been easy since we entered Georgia, and this wasn’t going to be either.  Our campground uses aol and I thought they might be willing to let me use the phone line during some slow part of the day/evening.  Not!  However, the owner referred me to the library.  The librarian said I could use their computer, but couldn’t plug in my own, or use the phone line.  “What if somebody wanted to call the library”?  It’s interesting that during our conversation, which took about 20 minutes, the phone never rang and no one came in.   However, the librarian suggested I drive to Cedartown, which would most certainly be able to help me.  Well, I did drive to Cedartown and went to the Chamber of Commerce.  There I met Betty Gray, who tried desperately to get me connected to a phone line, but their phone jacks are set up with three lines coming in and we couldn’t figure out how to get it to work with my computer.  I then headed for the Cedartown library – No luck.  They suggested I try the Auditorium, next door, because they have a couple phone lines coming into that office.  I went by, and the young woman working in the office didn’t want either of the lines tied up.  By this time my rejection rate was high, I was nearly in tears, and luckily it was time to go pick up Chuck.  His and Nina’s experiences made my frustrations seem a little frivolous.

Wednesday   4/5/00   20 miles/1593 total.     101 Trail Days.  US 278 to Cave Springs, GA.

Nina was catching up on the night of sleep she missed while sitting out the rainstorm.  Finally, she was coaxed into the day with a hot cup of coffee.  Over breakfast, she told us about her hiking club in Louisiana and her plans to hike the Appalachian Trail this June.  We talked about hiking gear and related stuff.  Nina’s trailname is most appropriate, “La Nina”, The Rain Goddess.  She said it usually rains when she goes hiking, but this time was a little excessive.

Betty and Nina dropped me at the trailhead, then they were off to run some errands.  Nina needed to have some replacement eye glasses made and she needed tent stakes and some other replacement gear.  I still marvel at how well she did considering the circumstances.  In yesterday’s account, I failed to mention that her glasses were washed away in the raging stream and that she can’t see much that is more than a couple of feet away.  Nina called a friend, Maggie, in the Alabama Trails Association, and arranged a ride to her home about 75 miles away and near the southern end of the Pinhoti Trail.

Meanwhile, I was finishing the last few miles on the northern end of the Pinhoti.  My day included the last five miles of the Pinhoti Trail then 15 miles on back roads into Cave Springs, GA.  However, the Pinhoti does not yield easily.  About 100 yards from the trailhead on Old Salem Church Road is a ford across Hurricane Creek.  This creek collects a lot of water from many streams coming out of the hills nearby and it was swollen to the top of its banks.  I looked for alternative crossings both up and down stream, bridges, a large downed treed, etc.  Nothing!  This stream was really moving, maybe Class 3 or 4.  Fortunately it was only about 50 feet wide.  I really did not want to ford this little monster, but a five mile hike back across a mountain to a location where “Betty wasn’t” did not appeal to me either.  So, I set about readying myself for the crossing.  I found a post-like log about six feet long and maybe eight or ten inches in diameter to brace against the current.  My wallet and other items went into plastic bags, my hiking stick was tied to my pack and the pack straps were loosened in case I needed to jettison it in a hurry.  My boots were tied together and slung around my neck.  I faced upstream, placed the pole in front of me and leaned into it, then I inched sideways into the current.  The pole not only acted as a brace, but also helped deflect some of the force of the current.  It was a slow process, finding stable footing among the slick rocks for tender bare feet, then moving the pole a few inches more into the current.  At the beginning, I was unsure how deep it would get.  I knew that anything much over waist deep would push me off my feet and I would have to swim with the current to the far shore.  Fortunately, the deepest part was a little below waist deep and I eased out of the strongest flow and onto the far bank.

The rest of the day was a road walk out of Alabama and into Georgia near Esom Hill, then on to Cave Springs, GA.

The statistics for Alabama were:  361 miles including 110 miles on the Pinhoti Trail in 28 days which includes five rest/sick days.

Upon arrival in Cave Springs, I used a pay phone at the Coastal Station to try to reach Betty.  As the phone was ringing, I looked up to see Betty driving by the station.  I ran to flag her.  While using the phone I was talking to a very pleasant lady who said she had seen me on the road twice during the day and wondered how far I was going.  I broke the conversation short as I ran to catch Betty.  With my pack stowed in the back of the Honda, I waved back to the lady as we drove back to our campsite.

   Note:  What I did not realize until the next morning was that I had left my hiking stick leaning against the pay phone.

Tuesday  3/21/00  20 miles/1471 total.  86 trail days.  1 miles north of SR 148 on CR 18 to 4 miles northeast of Porter Gap Trailhead on the Pinhoti Trail.    We were up early packing.  Betty packed for her drive to Naples and I packed for the Pinhoti Trail hike.  Betty made arrangements to park the RV in a secure lot until she returns.  We had breakfast at a Hardee’s in Alexander City and Betty decided to delay her departure until I hiked to the Pinhoti trailhead at Porter’s Gap.  I thought the distance was 10 or 12 miles and would take no more than three hours.  Wrong!  It was 16 miles and I was really clipping to  make it in four hours.  While transferring info from one map set to another, I had advanced the day’s start point by about five miles.  Each day when I finish hiking, we physically note or mark that point.  In this case, I had tied a lime green surveyor’s ribbon (tape) on a bush plus I correctly marked it on the map.  However, that evening, I incorrectly marked the next set of maps, so my calculations were five miles short of reality.

While on this extended hike, I met Polly Mcgeehee, out for her morning walk in the country, with her two dogs.  We walked together and chatted for about a mile.  She became a “fitness walker” five years ago when walking enabled her to stop taking her blood pressure medicine.  She is older than I am and sets a good pace.

As I hiked through Coleta Valley and passed the Hatchet Creek Trading Post, a man with a long beard and hair hailed me.  He was Tom Hess, known as “Mountain Man”.  He said Eb Eberhart, “Nimblewill Nomad”, had camped at his place on his thru-hike two years ago.  I told him Eb had given me some assistance in planning my hike and that I hoped to meet him when I was near his home in Georgia.  Tom and another guy, “Griz”, offered to let me camp there, but I had to move on.

Finally, I met Betty waiting at Porter’s Gap Trailhead with my heavy pack.  We ate lunch, took some pictures and she departed for Naples and I started northeast on the Pinhoti Trail.  I had packed enough gear and food for five days.  The pack weighed in at 43 lbs.  That is still 13 lbs more than Eb’s recommendation.  He said he would give me a word of advice, “thirty”!  I have not yet achieved that goal.

The Pinhoti Trail is beautiful, gentle, mountainous trail twisting and climbing in a hardwood forest.  I seem to have overtaken Spring.  There are few blossoms or leaves here, but looking closely some buds indicate that changes will take place shortly.  After about five miles I spotted a level knoll above the trail and chose it as home for the night.  Lipton’s “Spiral Pasta in Cheese Sauce with Herbs” never tasted so good.

Wednesday   3/22/00   12 miles/1483 total.  87 trail days.  4 miles northeast of Porter’s Gap Trailhead on the Pinhoti Trail to 1 mile north of Adam’s Gap on the Pinhoti Trail. 

Packed up, had a couple of Breakfast Bars, brought the journal up to date and was on the trial at about 8 AM.

The trail is very rocky and full of dead leaves in most places.  This makes for unsure footing and takes more time than when the pathway is clear.  So far, the “ups” have out done the “downs”, so the trail is gaining elevation.  Last night’s campsite was at about 1300 feet.  About 9:30 AM, I found a spring fed stream and filled three quart bottles.  The “Pur” water purification unit that I use seemed to spoil already clear water.  It adds some iodine which darkens the water and gives a medicinal taste until it is aerated.  A forest ranger, Jerry Sanderson,  helped Betty mark my maps with water sources.

The lack of foliage on the trees provides good panoramic vistas.  It’s a good feeling to be in the mountains.  The trail is more difficult when toting a heavy pack up steep inclines; but it still feels great!

Just past Clairmont Gap, I stopped for lunch.  A sweat soaked shirt and damp socks and boots were hung out to dry.  Lunch consisted of a cheese cracker pack and some nuts and raisins.  The warm sunshine and cool breeze nearly put me to sleep.

After passing Adam’s Gap, I found a level spot on a ridge, about 200 feet above the trail.  This would be home for the night.  The tent goes up first, then dinner.  Between the two chores, I called Betty to make sure she made it to Naples without troubles.  While she drove 700 miles, I hiked about ten.  However, I bet she didn’t enjoy her dinner as much as I enjoyed my simple red beans and rice.

Thursday  3/23/00   12 miles/1495 total.  88 trail days.  1 mile north of Adam’s Gap on the Pinhoti Trail to Cheaha State Park.  About 10PM last night the wind started blowing and by 2AM it was about 20mph.  A couple of days ago, when packing, I considered not bringing a tent.  A light nylon tarp and a better (lower temperature rated) sleeping bag are lighter then a tent and a light bag.  Glad I went with the tent.  The wind was still whipping across the exposed ridge line at 10AM this morning.

By 6:30AM, I was packed and on the trail.  It is a good feeling being in the mountains and the woods as the day comes alive.  Even the climbs seem easier.  Since yesterday afternoon, I have been hiking in an area of the Talladega National Forest, that has been declared a “Wilderness Area” by Congressional mandate.  No motorized vehicles nor power equipment are allowed in this Cheaha Wilderness Area.  Also, no mountain bikes nor horses nor pack stock.  In order to retain a wilderness atmosphere, they warn you that the trails will not be marked.  However, they proved to be easy to follow; they did cause me to check the map more carefully and more often.  It is a beautiful area with impressive views of vertical rock escarpments in the distance.  Then a few miles later the trail is on those same rocks. 

While slowly working the switchbacks up to the Odum Point Saddle, I met Steve Gronemeyer on his way down.  Steve is about my age and is from Largo, FL.  He likes to hike in more varied terrain than Florida has to offer, so he has been driving from place to place and backpacking several days at each location.  Being from south Florida, we consider terrain which varies by a few feet, hilly and anything that varies by a thousand feet or more, we consider mountainous.  The elevation in this area ranges from 1100 feet to 2400 feet.

Steve and I talked for half an hour about important backpacker subjects; like how to reduce pack weight, maps, water sources, etc.  Steve likes to do some bushwhacking on his trips and had just intercepted the Pinhoti Trail near Odum Point.  Bushwhacking is hiking cross country, ie. not on a trail.  It is a more interesting way to hike, but usually takes more time and always more energy than hiking on trails.

About noonish, I stopped at a trickle of a stream to refill my water bottles.  As I was about to depart, the little stream looked so good, I filed a collapsible water bag.  Moving away from the stream and the trail,  I had a very refreshing bath.

By mid-afternoon, the trail entered Cheaha (pronounced: Chee-ha) State Park, losing it’s “Wilderness Area” status.  The familiar Pinhoti trail markers reappeared.  The Pinhoti Trail is blazed with white metal, diamond shaped, markers about 4 inches by 3 inches.  A single large turkey track fills the diamond.  These are loosely tacked to trees, occasionally, along the trail.  The name “Pinhoti” comes from two Creek Indian words,  pinwa – meaning turkey and huti – meaning home.  Hence Pinhoti is “turkey home”.  The Creek and Cherokee are said to have fought over the use of this area.  Both Indian nations used some of these same trails.  Also, DeSoto came through this area in his explorations.

About 4PM, I arrived at the State Park entrance, checked into the motel, had dinner at their restaurant, and washed my clothes, which by now were quite aromatic.

Friday   3/24/00   16 miles/1511 total.  89 trail days.  Cheaha State Park to 1 miles south of US431 on the Pinhoti Trail.  Cheaha State Park has a country store, motel and restaurant.  The view from the dining area is spectacular.  It overlooks nearly the whole area of the Talladega National Park I have hiked.  The many rock escarpments stand out clearly.

At 5:30AM, the coffee was brewing in the motel lobby.  Leon Marrow was on duty.  He, also, is “retired Army”.  We had lots of stories to swap, over a couple of cups of hot coffee.

The air was cool and the first few miles flew by quickly.  The terrain is not as rugged as it has been the past couple of days; not as much rock and less climbing.  A wild turkey flew across directly in front of me and less than 50 feet up the trail.  It was a magnificent looking gobbler.  When I see a single game bird flush in a crossing manner, I am reminded of a pleasant hunting trip in Nebraska.  My dad, my brother, Jim, and my brother-in-law, Randy Davis, were in the weeds one cold morning.  A rooster flushed and crossed in front of Randy and I, he downed it.  Before I could congratulate him on the nice shot a second rooster was up and Randy got it and had never taken the gun from his shoulder.  I took two more hunting trips to the corn state before I was able to get a double.

In some lower areas, the Dogwood and Redbud are blooming.  Often, I will be looking down into a ravine and see these beautiful white and purple spots in the otherwise brown and gray forest.  At several stream crossings, I have seen fresh boot tracks in the wet sand or mud.  They could have been made by either a turkey hunter or a hiker.  Since they have been on the trail for several miles, my guess is a hiker.  Most stream crossings consist of stepping from rock to rock.  But one crossing was wider and knee deep, I pulled off my boots and wore my “Hawaiian Low Quarters” (flip-flops).

In the afternoon, the miles seem to get longer, the pack heavier and the hills steeper.  Today, I wanted to put in a few extra miles so that I could finish early tomorrow.  Betty and I plan to meet at the point where the Pinhoti crosses US 78 and I want to make sure I am there before she arrives.

It takes me about an hour to set up camp, cook and eat dinner, wash up, and put everything away for the night.  It is dark here just a few minutes after 6PM, so I usually start looking for a suitable campsite at about 4PM and by 4:30 I stop being picky about the location.  This afternoon, I planned to hike until 5PM.  Unfortunately, at that time,  I was on the side of a very steep hill.  At two ravines, the little streams poured over rocks for 30-50 feet making spectacular waterfalls.  The trail was only a foot wide and ran along the hillside for over a half mile.  Then, the whole area had burned recently and was charred; not a good place to unfold your kitchen and bedroom.  Just a few minutes before 6PM, I saw a little portion, along a swampy stream, that had not burned.  It was not a good site being in swamp with no view, but, this time of year the bugs aren’t a problem and since it was almost dark, the view wasn’t important.  It was almost totally dark when I had everything squared away.  The Lipton pasta with herb and cheese sauce was great.

Saturday  3/25/00   9 miles/1520 total.  90 trail days.  What a “clammy” camp!!  By morning everything in the tent was damp.  I think this was due to a combination of factors: the night was cloudy and more humid than usual, there was no breeze and my clothes and gear were still damp with sweat when I tossed them inside.  Anyway, I stuffed everything into the pack, had a couple of “very berry” oatmeal bars and was on the trail before 7AM.

Lee Ridley was camped by a stream about two miles north of where I had camped.  Lee is a senior in Civil Engineering, at Auburn University and is on spring break.  He started the Pinhoti Trail at Porter’s Gap, 3 days before I did and is slowly unwinding in nature’s solitude, before returning to classes.  He was concerned that as a graduating senior he still doesn’t know what he wants to do in life.  Heck, I’m nearly a senior citizen and I’m not sure what I want to do either.  Hope we both get it figured out before we have to leave the trail.

Later, at least seven deer exploded out of a stream bed about forty feet below me.  Three or more ran on down the stream and four very quickly climbed the very steep hillside in front of me.  It looked like “Snowy River” in reverse.

The last few miles dragged, but I arrived at US 78, our meeting place, before 1PM.  It would be several hours before Betty arrived, so I found my own grassy knoll beside the short ramp leading from SR 281 to US 78, and hung out all my wet gear to dry, while I caught this journal up to date.  Two forest rangers checked on me.  Lonnie and Vonnie (really) were interested in my impression of the Pinhoti Trail.  Of course, I had nothing but praise for both the Pinhoti and for Talladega National Forest.

A carload of youngsters pulled up and yelled out of the car window.  They asked if I had seen the “Rainbow Bus”.  After pleading ignorance, they told me it had to do with some hippie, campout,  reunion nearby.  They said they thought I might be part of the old group that was gathering.  Thinking about this after they left, it seems they assumed the old bearded guy in the middle of noplace, sitting in the sun wearing nothing but running shorts, and writing in his little book, was a hippie.  Just to complete the setting, my camping gear was strewn over bushes to dry, all along behind me, and I was sitting on the ground leaning against my pack.  As soon as their car was out of sight, I quickly repacked my gear, put my shirt on, and tried to act a little more “respectable”.  I have never, ever been mistaken for a hippie before, not in the sixties, nor any other time; my wife maybe, but not me.  Later, we were told by some local folks,  that every year at this time, several thousand “ex-hippies” gather someplace in this general area.  They all camp in a large woodsy commune.

Just as I was getting my act together, Lee Ridley arrived and we talked while we waited for our separate rides.  We compared notes on hiking gear, camping techniques, and camp food.  Both of us were wearing Vasque, “Sundowner” boots.  Lee has been wearing the same type since he was 15 years old and is on his fifth pair.  I bought my first pair last summer in Minnesota.

Betty arrived after her 12 hour drive, I introduced her to Lee, and we went to pick up the RV.  Lee seems like a nice guy, but I’m not sure he is very smart.  He could have spent spring break partying on the beach, instead he is solo camping in the mountains wondering about his future.  We wish him the best!!

Betty:  During my 12 hour drive, I had lots of time to ponder past experiences.  As I was rolling up the Interstate, surrounded by 18 wheelers, I remembered a time about 33 years ago, when Chuck, Susan, our daughter who was about 3 months old, and Boots, our Boston Terrier,  were on a trip out west.  We were driving a Volkswagon beetle which had no power and we were traveling across the plains states.  Chuck was drafting trucks to keep our speed up.  We were in the process of drafting a big 18 wheeler,  when all of a sudden we fell out of the draft zone.  Well, needless to say, we were left way behind, and slowing fast.  All of a sudden,  the truck slowed down and we began to gain on it.   Just as  we closed the gap, a big hairy arm came out the window of the truck,  and motioned for us to get on up there.  We hadn’t realized, but he was deliberately letting us stay in that draft zone.

I received an e-mail message from Rodger Warren, asking if we would be near Newnan, GA., where he has two brothers.  In checking the map, I realized the trail wouldn’t go through Newnan, however, when I was taking a shortcut from I-75 to I-20, I drove right through the middle of Newnan.  What a beautiful, southern town.  I drove down a street lined with beautiful, old antebellum and Victorian houses.  It’s another place to which I would like to return and spend some time visiting its four historic districts.

Sunday  3/26/00  11 miles/1531 total.  91 trail days.  US 78 on the Pinhoti to FR 531 near Highrock Lake.  Last night we retrieved the RV from storage at Wind Creek State Park and made it about ten miles to Alexander City, when the urge overwhelmed us.  We parked in a shopping center parking lot; the pizza and beer were great.  This morning,  it was 10AM by the time we drove to Coleman Lake Campground, a National Forest site.  Then, Betty dropped me on the trail and hurried back to Heflin, AL to attend 11AM services.

Betty:  I went to 11AM services at Heflin Baptist Church.  The music, the message and the people were all great.  Heflin is a neat little town on the northeast edge of Talladega National Forest.

Chuck: Today I was wearing the new pack which is replacing my old favorite, mid-sized mountain pack (2400 cubic inches).  Since Betty will be meeting me at the end of the day, I no longer need to carry a tent, sleeping bag, camp stove, etc.  The net weight is about 25 lbs lighter.  I felt as if I had wings on my feet.  Fairly gliding along the trail, I was making good time; over 2.5 miles per hour, compared with less than two, with the heavier pack.  The terrain had less elevation change, which also helped.  The miles flew by “without a bit of ease” (quote by Coach Andy Lorensen).

The elevation here averages about 1200 feet and some of the trees show a green hint of what will soon be leaves.  Also, small wild flowers are popping out of the forest floor; crested Dwarf Iris, Spring Beauty, Showy Orchis and many more.  Our niece Tiph, who accompanied us on the Colorado Trail, loves mountain flowers.  She plans to join us on the AT; hope she doesn’t miss the flower show.

Betty managed to find the pick up point miles back through a lot of winding forest roads.

Betty:  While I was driving out to pick Chuck up, an old beat up car coming towards me, stopped and  the driver rolled down his window.  “Are you looking for the Rainbow Group?”  he asked.  I said “No”, and he asked if I knew where they were camped.  I told him I didn’t, he wished me a good day, and drove off with his car load of passengers.  As I drove up to where I was to meet Chuck, two more cars pulled up asking about the Rainbow Group’s whereabouts.  Later, in talking with a forest ranger, he told us they are camped not too far from Coleman Lake.  Evidently, it’s quite a peaceful gathering and the forest service doesn’t give them a hard time.

This may be a good place to explain my part in all of this, since I’ve had lots of questions about what I do when I’m “waiting” for Chuck.  Chuck is certainly “fit” enough that he could have taken off with his large pack on a trip of this magnitude and completed it without any assistance.  We both have been on backpacking trips through the Rocky Mountains and in Europe, but  I didn’t want to do the trip with a pack,  and we decided that we could still enjoy the trip together, as a team, Chuck backpacking and me doing logistics, which  would enable him to complete the trip quicker and much of the time with a small day pack.  Also,  we’ve evolved into taking turns on deciding what we want to do, and this is Chuck’s year.  So what do I do?  I find sites for the RV, get maps for areas that are coming up,  drop Chuck off in the morning and pick him up in the afternoon, sometimes jog, walk the dog, do the laundry, buy groceries, cook, clean, update the journal, and yes, I always have a good book with me and “wait patiently” at the pick up point when I am there early. The sites we camp in have been extremely peaceful and beautiful, and always have trails for leisure walks.   Map reading comes easy to me, and I don’t mind driving back on country, or  forest roads – in fact – it’s quite beautiful and I enjoy it.  Once a month, I time my trips back to Naples to coincide with the Philharmonic’s Pops and sometimes with the First Presbyterian Concert Series performances,  which I also enjoy.  This trip back was the last pops performance for this season.   Helen, Chuck’s mom, has already ordered our tickets for next winter’s First Presbyterian Concert Series, and we’re looking forward to it, and the Pops. 

Monday  3/27/00  10 miles/1541 total.  92 trail days.  FR 531 near High Rock Lake to Coleman Lake Trailhead. 

Not my day!  About 6AM, I was returning from the shower house and stepped on a small rusty roofing nail.  The type with a head the size of a half dollar.  It  went through my shower shoe and into my right foot about 3/4 of an inch.  Betty washed it with hydrogen peroxide and alcohol then put a salve and band aide on it.  It rained in the morning so we drove to both State and National Forest Ranger offices.  They had lots of info, but not maps of the area we will be in next week.

By the time I got on the trail it was 1PM.  Met two backpackers from the University of Alabama, their spring break is just starting.  “Blazin Wind” hiked half of the AT last year.  He and Richard Wear were anxious to move on, they still had several miles to go before dark; me too. 

At the Laurel Trail Shelter, I checked the register.  Jon and Dan Leuschel had left me a note on 3 March.  They are moving fast and doing well.  We will send them an e-mail with our location and answer some of their questions.

The last few minutes before reaching the trail head, I was hurting.  Later, all my bones hurt, and my joints.  The fever made me think it was complications from stepping on the nail.  However, in the middle of the night I was running from both ends.  Probably the flu.

Tuesday  3/28/00    0 miles/1541 total.  93 trail days.     Rest Day.

The only hiking I did was the eight feet from the bed to the bathroom; repeatedly.  It has been about 25 years since I’ve had the flu (or been really sick) and I don’t care for it much.

Betty read, typed the journal, went on a run and a long walk.

A wasted day for me!

Wednesday  3/29    0 miles/1541    2nd rest day.    Trail Day 94.

Chuck is still recovering from the flu.  Coleman Lake is very nice.  We have a site with water, electricity and sewer hookups.  There is a walking/running path around the lake that Levi (the Schnauzer) and I have been enjoying.  I’m driving into Heflin today to see if I can find a computer hookup.  If not, I’ll wait until we get to the campsite in Rome, GA where I already know there is a modem.

As I was sitting here typing this, I was looking out the window at the kids riding their bicycles, and it seemed like this would be a good place to talk about the RV.  Over the years, we’ve done a lot of backpacking, hiking, canoeing and all of these involved tent camping.  This is the second year we have owned an RV and I appreciate it more and more.  As I was driving back to Naples and stayed the night in the motel in Ocala, I paid $60 for the night and that was with the discount.  In the RV, we stay in some commercial campgrounds which normally run between $15 and $20 per night.  The commercial campgrounds have more amenities than dry camping or state and national parks,(near or in town, laundry room, shoppette, swimming pool, etc.)  Often we stay in National Parks or Forests, State Parks,  or  National Historical Sites.  Their fees run between $8 to $15, depending on the amenities.  There are a few that may be more expensive, but not as a general rule.  Most of the national and state parks/forests have been beautiful and  have lots of room for children and adults to explore.  Most have bath houses, the sites generally have water and electricity and some have sewer. They often have playgrounds, and many have lakes.   Now the beauty of the RV is that it has holding tanks and it has it’s own generator.  So we can adapt to most any condition.  We can stay on a site that has water and electricity for three to five days and use our holding tanks for the used water and sewage.  We can also “dry camp”, which is what we do when we mention we’ve been staying in a parking lot, or on the side of the road. When we dry camp we pay nothing.  Wal-Mart is good about letting people dry camp for a night and we always get permission and also do our shopping there.  Many truck stops also allow dry camping and we buy our gas at those.   When we “dry camp” we use our holding tanks for used water, we use the fresh water in our fresh water storage tank for our showers, and cooking. We have a bank of four batteries that provide 12 volt power for the lights, water pump, etc.  We also have a small inverter that will convert power for the computer and the cell phone chargers.   If we need 120 volt  electricity for the TV, AC, or Microwave, we can turn on the generator, which runs on gasoline and automatically charges all the batteries through the on-board converter.  Our refrigerator can be run on electricity or propane, and our range and oven are both operated on propane.  So it really is home on the road, very complete and comfortable.  As I woke up early this morning and it was raining outside, I thought – This sure beats a tent!

Chuck:   The fever, nausea and deep aching have subsided, but the diarrhea has not and lower abdominal pain has intensified.  Too weak to be on my feet more than a few minutes at a time; hiking is not even a consideration.  Betty continues with TLC!

Thursday  30 Mar 00   0 miles/1541   3rd Rest Day.    95 Trail Days.

Some better, but still having acute lower abdominal pain and diarrhea.  After researching the pertinent references available in the RV, we have concluded that this affliction might not be the flu, but rather “Crypto”.  Cryptosporidiosis is caused by drinking water contaminated with cryptosporidium, a microscopic parasite and is somewhat “common” in backcountry water sources.  Symptoms begin 2 to 7 days after drinking contaminated water and are listed exactly as I have experienced.  This little “crypto” culprit is so small (2-5 microns) that it must have slipped through my little water filter.  Also, neither chlorine nor iodine are totally effective; my filter uses iodine.  When I get my wits about me again, I’ll call the manufacturer to see what their experience with crypto has been and what recommendations they may have to offer.  Over the years, I have used this filter before drinking water from some pretty questionable sources without a problem.  As a side note, “Crypto” caused the largest outbreak of waterborne diarrhea in U.S.  history:  Milwaukee, 1993.

There is no reliable antibiotic treatment for “crypto”, so I’m treating the symptoms by drinking lots of fluids to prevent dehydration, and taking a “shot” of Pepto Bismal every few hours to ease the abdominal cramps and diarrhea.

The day was spent resting, but I did feel enough better to eat a few bites and read some.  Betty went for a long walk and continues to care for the “sick, lame, and lazy”.

Friday   31 Mar 00   8 miles/1549   Coleman Lake Trailhead to FR55.   96 Trail Days.

The sun was shining this morning.   I was feeling almost half-human and guilty about a three day hiatus.  We decided on a short hike to test the recovery process.  The trail was eight miles long and not difficult.  Kicked up two wild turkey and saw that the emerging wildflowers were not deterred by my absence.  I was noticeably weak and light-headed.  It was good to see Betty waiting as I approached our meeting point on Forest Road 55.

During the afternoon, I read and rested, Betty read, then walked around Coleman Lake.

Thursday 3/9/00   21 miles/1244 total.  74 trail days.  Alabama CR 37, 2 miles north of FL State Line to Open Pond Campground.   Shortly after Betty and Mae dropped me at the start point, I hiked through the fog to Bradley, AL.  The only store in Bradley is run by Thomas Elliott.  We sat and talked while I had a honey bun and milk.  Thomas told me about two hikers, going from Oregon to West Palm Beach, FL., who passed his way in 1997, just before he was to have surgery to remove a brain tumor.  They camped in the Elliott’s yard for three days and gave him a small statue of a “guardian angel” to help him through the crisis.  Also, a guy biking to Washington, DC for the bi-centennial passed through in 1976. 

     Back on the by-ways of Alabama, I met Mr. Douglas in the front yard of his old country home; out for a morning chew.  He said he was born in a log house that used to be just across the road.  When he was drafted in WWII, he walked to Andalusia, 30 miles away, to report.  Except for that 2 years and 9 months, he has spent his whole life right there.

     About a half-mile down the road, I saw a lady with a shovel in her front yard.  Betty Worrell told me of her miraculous medical recoveries and how much she now enjoyed being alive everyday.  She was a wonderful, caring person trying to live a good life and help others.  Just as I was taking her picture, the sun broke through the fog and illuminated her as the angel that she surely was.

     Walking down a back road, I came around a curve and saw a mother coyote with two pups.  The pups were about the size of “Levi”, our Schnauzer.  The mother took off as soon as she saw me, however, the pups wanted to take a couple glances back before following their mom.  After a hot afternoon of hiking, I walked into our campsite at Open Pond in Conecuh National Forest.

Betty:  The State Park and National Forest Campgrounds have been beautiful, and today we are once again enjoying the beauty of Conecuh National Forest.  Our campsite is right on the lake (pond), the park is filled with flowering trees; dogwood, cherry and some we could not identify.  This afternoon we were  sitting by the RV, reading and also enjoying the lake.  A lady approached us and said, “Are you Hashers?”  We said yes and knew she must be familiar enough with this international running group to recognize the foot decal on the back of the Honda.  It turned out that Angelia Pugh’s son, Donald, belongs to a Hash group in Perry, GA.  We had a great visit with Angelia, and then went to meet her husband, Wayne.  We hope to ‘run’ into Donald, aka “Vegamatic”, at a future run.  Later in the day, we met our neighbors on the other side, Arlene and Forrest.

Friday  3/10/00    23 miles/1267 total.   75 trail days.  Open Pond Campground to about 10 miles south of Andalusia, AL on CR 17.  Betty, Mae and I hiked directly from the RV, around Open Pond and toward Blue Lake.  There are a series of trails that are interconnected within Conecuh National Forest.  We took the “scenic route”.  After a couple of hours, Betty and Mae hiked back to the campground.  The Conecuh Trails are great; well maintained, through rolling pine forest with scattered hardwoods.  Everyday more trees are in full blossom; the dogwood and cherry are most impressive right now. 

 By mid-afternoon, I exited Conecuh National Forest, moving north toward Andalusia.  I was able to stay on clay roads much of the time, but eventually the hard surfaced roads were unavoidable.  Betty and Mae picked me up on CR 17.  As we were driving back to the campground, a wild Turkey crossed just in front of us.    

Betty:   Mae and I were out in the woods this morning, after our hike with Chuck, looking at some of the beautiful flowering plants.  Mae is really enjoying the spring conditions, with trees and flowers beginning to bloom.  The Wisteria, creeping Jasmine, Dogwood, flowering Cherry, Azaleas and Honeysuckle bushes are beautiful, and are prevalent in this area.  On our way back to the campsite, we saw a restaurant, “The Country Kitchen”, and decided to have lunch.  We were eating lunch and noticed the US Flag outside looked like it had been through a war.  Mae asked the man sitting near, “Who’s in charge of the Flag?”  He said, “Oh, I know it needs to be changed and I have a new one, I just haven’t put it up yet.”  Later in the evening I drove back up there to get a DeLorme map and noticed right away the new flag.  I said, “The Flag looks great!”  and he said “I told you I’d change it.” 

As we  were leaving to pick Chuck up this afternoon, Gloy waved us down and said, “I just have to know what this sign on the back of your car means.”  He was referring to the sign we now have that says “Support Vehicle for Key West to Canada Hike”.  When we arrived back at the campsite in the evening, he asked if we had found Chuck, and invited us to come by the campfire after dinner.  That evening  we all were sitting in front of Gary and Debbie’s rig with  Gloy and Theresa.  Both families live a few miles south of here.  It was fun talking with them about the local area, other campgrounds, etc.  They were interested in our trip, and asked some tough questions, like, “Why are you doing this?”  Gloy slipped out to get some marshmallows, but Gary declined saying that if he wanted something sweet, he would lick his fingers.

Saturday  3/11/00  22 miles/1289 total.  76 trail days.  10 miles south of Andalusia on CR 17 to 5 miles south of Rose Hill on CR 43.  We moved the RV from Open Pond Campground in Conecuh National Forest to a Wal-Mart parking lot in Andalusia.  This would only be temporary parking, for the day, and would give Betty and Mae a chance to locate a site suitable for the next two or three days.  While in the Wal-Mart parking lot, we were drooling over some of the new motorhomes, at an RV show, in the corner of the parking area.  A salesman, George, approached us thinking we might be interested in replacing our older rig with a new one.  He quickly focused on Mae, trying to put her in a very nice Minnie Winnie.  We escaped, but, just barely.  

The day’s hike was along county back roads.  I passed some beautiful trees and shrubs in yards and alongside the road.  As I passed through downtown Andalusia I stopped at the Andalusia Flower and Gift Shop to ask about a local play that was advertised in front of their shop.  Joan Stewart and her daughter, Amanda, told me a little about the town and were giving me directions through town as a thunderstorm brought a needed downpour to the area.  I slipped on my rain parka and put a cover on my pack.  It was a good feeling walking through the town square in a heavy rain after a long dry spell.  Once north of town the rain eased, and by late afternoon the sun was shining.

 When Betty and Mae snatched me off  County Road 43, we moved the RV on north to Dry Creek Campground, four miles south of Luverne, AL.  Christine and Percy Coggins own the little hunting camp.  Christine told Mae that they moved “down here” in 1991.  Knowing that Christine had a southern accent, Mae asked where they had moved down from, and was told: Luverne, which is about 4 miles north of here.

Sunday  3/12/00  11 miles/1300 total.  77 trail days.  South of Rose Hill on CR 43 to South of Week, AL on CR 43.  We visited the Brantley United Methodist Church in Brantley, Alabama.  Pastor Jim Meadows, introduced us during the opening announcements.  He said we were traveling from Key West to Canada; from the “percolator to the refrigerator”.  Betty’s note:  Chuck and I were married in a Methodist Church in Hinesville, GA. 34 years ago this August.  I think they did a great job!

Chuck:  In the afternoon, Mae and I hiked a few miles on County Road 43 with almost no vehicles passing.  Betty picked Mae up in Rose Hill.  Mr. Grimes, who owns the Rose Mart General Store, retired after 43 years in the Army, and has a son who is now a Sergeant Major.  We swapped Army stories for so long that Betty and Mae drove off saying they would find me along CR 43 later.

 Mae’s note:  The temperature was about 34 degrees the last two nights, but it warmed up beautifully during the day. We have seen some beautiful charolais cattle and lots of horses in this area, both with sweet little off-spring. Pastures are lush due, in some places, to the use of huge irrigation systems – long pipes above ground and and moved across several acres on wheels. I am enjoying every minute. The rolling hills are easy hiking and scenery is really pretty. City Hall crosses my mind but occasionally.

Monday  3/13/00   25 miles/1325 total.  78 trail days.  South of Weed, AL on CR 43 to 2 miles south of Hephzibah, AL at Goshen Rd on CR 21.  After dropping me at the start point, Betty and Mae went to Troy to do laundry and take care of some other chores.  The temperature had dropped to about 34 degrees last night and the morning was crisp, clear and cool; a good hiking day.

While in Troy, Betty and Mae contacted Jaine Treadwell at the “Troy Messenger”, the local daily newspaper.  They asked her if  the newspaper subscribers  would be interested in knowing that Troy was our “crossroads”.  We had passed through Troy moving west on the horseback trip to California five years ago.  Jaine said she would like to talk with all of us and arranged to meet us in Henderson (south of Troy) at Rex Locklar’s “antique” general store.  Jaine Treadwell  is a bit of a celebrity and many local folks dropped by to say “hello”.  She talked with us for about an hour, took a few pictures and we were all back on the road.  We arranged to meet the next day in Troy at the exact point of the “crossing”: US 231 and CR 21. To make up the miles lost during the interview, I hiked until dark. 

Betty’s note:  Chuck was also featured in the March 2000 issue of  “n” magazine “The magazine of Naples”.  Mae brought it up when she came.  A great article written by Marlene Smith-Graham.  

Marlene is a feature writer for “n” and has also written a book “Headfirst into America” about the trip she, Craig, and their two children, Courtney and Collier, took through the States.  She and Craig sold their house, quit their jobs, and took off on a neat journey through all of the states.  They reaffirmed, as we have, that there are a lot of wonderful people in this country of ours.

Tuesday   3/14/00    17 miles/1342 total.   79 trail days.  2 miles south of Hephzibah, AL to #127 on CR 7 (Laura Lynn Jordan’s) driveway.  We moved the RV to the Wal-Mart parking lot in Troy, AL.  The 5 1/2 mile hike north to Troy was pleasant, the weather was cool, the traffic light and the miles painless.  Meanwhile, Betty & Mae went to the office of the “Troy Messenger” to update the website.  Jaine Treadwell and her son, Huck, who also works at the “Messenger”, made plans to meet Betty & Mae at the Conoco Station on the corner of CR 21 and US 231 at about the time I would hike up to that point.  This is the crossing of our hiking trail and the trail we followed on the transcontinental horseback trip west  five years ago.  Huck got several pictures then he and Jaine were on their way.  Mae, Betty and I decided to try the pizza counter in the Conoco store.  The owners, Jimmy and Martha Norman, had noticed the photo session and asked us about the trip.  Martha remembered seeing our wagon train passing by on the road in front of their store.  She said she took pictures of it.  Jimmy made our pizza, then he and Martha said it and our soft drinks were their treat.  This gracious gesture made Troy, AL even more special to us.  After lunch, Betty quickly sent me off on my hike so she and Mae could do the “things” they wanted to do.

Hiking north through an older section of Troy, I overtook Annie as we were climbing a small hill.  Annie, a middle aged black lady, was laboring up the hill.  I slowed to chat with her.  She said her kids all had cars, but they were doing her a favor by allowing her the opportunity to exercise.  I walked on the pavement next to the curb, Annie walked in the grass a couple of feet from the roadway.  She advised me not to walk in the street, “out in the country, drivers respect walkers and give them room.  In the city, everyone knows the streets belong to cars, so we’ve got to stay out of their way.”  Good advice!!

Late in the afternoon, I passed the Needmore Convenience Store and stopped for a cold drink.  Gayle Jordan was a fountain of information about the local area.  A few minutes later, Laura Lynn came in and suggested some attractions that sounded very interesting.  I really enjoyed our discussion.  Before I left, a little girl about five years old asked me some questions about my hike.  It was Erin, Laura Lynn’s daughter, a very cute, articulate and well behaved young lady.  She was excited to learn that I would be hiking by her house.  I told her I would wave to her if she would yell when I passed by.

An hour or so later, as I was clipping down the road, I heard a little voice and saw Erin waving to me.  She and her brother, Jeffrey, were playing in their large front yard.  I took their picture and waved to their parents just as Betty and Mae were flying by in the Honda.  The brake lights went on as they went out of sight.  They came back and we called it a day.  A good day!

Mae’s Note:  Betty and I visited the Pike (County) Pioneer Museum – a wonderful collection of items depicting the early settler’s way of life in this area. It was a self-guided tour inside and outside several buildings. On display were entire rooms of furniture for living rooms, bedrooms, dining rooms, kitchens, dental and doctors’ offices. There were spinning wheels showing the process of making fabric from the cotton ball stage to thread, and to the woven cloth with pretty, colorful patterns. Also on display were printing presses, blacksmith shop tools, carriages – including a hearse and “pinch toe” coffin. There were several out buildings of  log construction, some housing old farm equipment and road building machines. Probably the most impressive collection was the general store, which had been moved to the museum location in its ENTIRETY. Massie Ree Warr, a lovely lady of 86 graceful years, and who has  done volunteer work with the museum for more than 20 years, took Betty and me into the General Store and showed us around. All shelves were stocked with original items from shoes to medicine, and even a peanut parcher. This is a “must see” museum for anyone visiting the Troy, AL area.

I have been checking the classified sections in local newspapers along the way with the notion that out there somewhere is my next puppy. Betty and I went to a couple pet stores yesterday. While all puppies are adorable,  none in the stores were meant to be mine. A young lady working in one of the stores told me about an “advertiser-type” magazine available at all gas stations, etc. It didn’t take long to find a copy and I think my pup is listed on page 180. Betty and I will take a drive up the road tonight to check on the matter after Chuck is through hiking for the day and we have relocated the RV. More on this subject later….

Wednesday  3/15/00   18 miles/1360 total.  80 trail days.   #127 on CR 7 (Laura Lynn’s driveway) to 2 miles north of US 82.  We got an early start in order to have time to move the RV forward and for Mae to check on a puppy at a lady’s home east of Montgomery.

About 8AM, a red pick-up truck passed me then pulled off at a wide spot.  The driver leaned against his truck waiting for me.  Pugh Davis, a fit looking man about 80 years old, smiled and said curiosity got the best of him.  I told him about my trip and he repaid me with a bit of American history.  After his grandfather (yes, grandfather) was killed in the Civil War, his grandmother took all the kids in an ox cart and came “west” to Alabama to homestead 40 acres.  Pugh was the youngest of several children and never knew his father who was in his 50’s when Pugh was born and died when Pugh was three months old.  Pugh said he was born in a log cabin that was “just up the road”.

About noon, I stopped at Earles’ Country Store for a cold drink.  John Earles and Tim Hubbard, who lives “just up the road”, told me about Hank Williams who grew up a few miles away.  Tim said that I had just hiked past a lane going to a cabin owned by Hank Williams, Jr.

After lunch, a nice looking white Chevy pick-up truck slowed beside me.  Otis Manuel, a large muscular black man about 40 years old, asked if I would like a ride.  I thanked him explaining that I wanted to walk every step to Canada.  He said he understood and gave me directions that would take me the next several miles.  I told him that less than a dozen people had offered me a ride during the past 1300 miles.

Betty and Mae overtook me on Bullock County Road #7 about 2 miles north of US 82 at the “Nut Farm”.  We moved the RV to Wind Drift campground at Exit 22 of I-85.  Just as soon as we were parked, Mae and Betty were off to look at a puppy.  A couple hours later we had a new traveler with us: a six week old Boston Terrier.  Mae named her, “Susannah” because she “came from Alabama”.

Thursday  3/16/00   28 miles/1388 total.   81 trail days.  2 miles north of US 82 on CR 7 to Tallapoosa River on SR 229 (about 2 miles north of  I-85).  On the drive to the starting point at the “Nut Farm”, a Wild Turkey hen crossed in front of us.  As I was getting my gear on, residents of the “Nut Farm” were “escaping”.  Gus and Marge Tompkins, owners of the pecan farm, each stopped to ask if we needed help.  About  9:30 AM, I stopped at the Country Store in Fitzpatrick.  The lady behind the counter, Sue Tompkins, invited me to sit down and talk while I ate my snack.  She said the morning coffee crowd all knew a stranger was passing through, as there had been many sightings the day prior.  Sue said she had seen a couple of women (Betty and Mae) give me a ride.  She said Gus Tompkins was her cousin and that yesterday he told his mother, who lives alone, to keep the doors locked because a questionable character was passing through the area.  His mother told him that she had already “locked up” because several neighbors had called to alert her.

 It had rained last night and the air was fresh.  Since there were few people to talk with (probably all hiding from “the vagrant”), I was making good time.

 A wide, mowed area, alongside the little used county road, served as my lunch spot.  While sitting there, barefoot, with boots and socks airing, a beat up old Pontiac, with no license plate, passed by slowly.  Two black ladies were curious about my presence.  Just a couple of minutes later they passed in the opposite direction.  Then, two young black guys in a pick-up truck made the “double pass”.  Finally, an older black man drove up and stopped in the middle of the road.  After a strained exchange of greetings, he got right to the point.  He wanted to know what I was doing in their little part of paradise.  Then, I realized that the previous passers had been “sizing me up” and the elder man saw it as his responsibility to insure local security.  I gave him a brief account of my hike and told him I would be moving on as soon as I finished my lunch.

In this time of terrible headlines and TV stories all across the country, I cannot fault the people in this community, nor the folks from Fitzpatrick to the “Nut Farm”, for their own form of “Neighborhood Watch”.  However, it is disconcerting to be the subject of such attention.

The splendor of spring continues to unfold in all manner about us.  It is great.  Betty picked me up just before a thunderstorm passed through the area.  Mae was back at the RV “dog-sitting” with her new “baby”.

Mae’s Note: My new little buddy, Susannah, is really a small miracle. She is as cute as a button, playful, and smart as a whip. She is learning very quickly how to train me – when to take her out, when to feed her and when not to leave her in a large cardboard box! She made her first trip to the Vet yesterday for her initial series of puppy shots and did very well. Today she took her first walk attached to a leash. She had fun chasing along behind her big cousin, Levi, and his mom, Betty. She has mastered the art of escape from the confines of a laundry basket and a small box, hence the big “Bounty” paper towel corral she occupies when we are away from the RV for a short time. Susannah and Levi get along well together, but Susannah thinks all food dishes are fair game.She weighs about 2 lbs. and has very pretty markings. I know she will be a hit in our neighborhood when we get back to Naples. Betty is a whiz with maps and figuring how to get to some very out-of-the-way places.  I am grateful that we were together, otherwise, I may never have found my little Susannah. Weather here is beautiful now, after a couple rainy nights.

Friday 3/17/00   10 miles/1398 total.  82 trail days.  Tallapoosa River on SR 229 to 2 miles north of Tallassee, AL.   We took the morning off to visit the Tuskegee University National Historical Site.  It is very interesting and well presented.  Since our time was limited, we only went to the George Washington Carver Museum and Booker T. Washington’s home.  Our guide, Christine, gave “in depth” explanations to our questions and lingered with us to discuss several related topics.  We all were impressed with the site.  As we departed Tuskegee, we drove by the airfield where the now famous “Tuskegee Airmen” trained.  It is not an established site for visitors.  The old hangar is abandoned and falling down.  We were told that plans are underway to restore the site and create a visitor’s center.  It was nearly 3 PM when I got on the trail.  Then, as I hiked through Tallassee, I found a couple of stores to replenish some needed items.  While standing at a drug store counter, still wearing my pack, orange vest and carrying a hiking stick, the clerk looked at the insoles, moleskin and blister packs I was buying.  She asked if I was on a long hike and where I had started.  She said her husband got a lot of blisters because his feet were wet so much in Vietnam.  I told her she did not look nearly that old.  She quickly informed me that she wasn’t, but that her husband was.  Debra Shealey, an attractive black lady, asked more questions about the hike and I gave her our website address.

I found a replacement pocket knife and had some spare keys made at a hardware store.

Betty picked me up after only 10 miles for the day.

Saturday  3/18/00  19 miles/1417 total.  83 trial days.  2 miles north of Tallassee, AL to 6.5 miles south of Wind Creek State Park on SR63.   Betty dropped me at the start point, then drove on ahead to find a suitable campsite.  She located a site at Wind Creek State Park on Lake Martin. 

The route for the past week or so has been a long “road walk”.  We have tried to stay on remote county roads, which have little traffic, but will still get us to Talladega National Forest as directly as possible.  The Pinhoti Trail travels a hundred miles northeast in Talladega N.F. and nearly to the Georgia state line.  From there a few more “road walk” miles will get us to the Benton MacKaye Trail which goes northeast, then east to a point south of Chattanooga, Tennessee, then S.E. to the Appalachian Trail – finally!  What this means is that we have a scant few miles of “road walking” left between here and Canada; guess I should be enjoying rather than loathing.

On the backroads, I have enjoyed visiting in the country stores.  As I passed near Eclectic, AL (the town Mae located her Susannah puppy), Jimmy Glenn was “minding” a small store.  After talking a few minutes, he gave me his phone numbers and address and said to call if I ever needed help, even if it was in Canada.  He would like to join me, but his health would not permit the long hours of walking.  I think he was looking for a good excuse to take off on his own adventure.

We parked the RV at a site overlooking a portion of Lake Martin, then Mae took us to dinner at Lake Hill Seafood restaurant.  They lost money on their “all you can eat” seafood buffet; it was great!

Sunday  3/19/00   18 miles/1435 total.  84 trail days.  6/5 miles south of Wind Creek State Park on SR 63 to 5 miles north of Alexander City.  Mae was up even earlier than usual, packed and ready to drive back to Naples.  We hated to see her leave, but knew she would be back in a month or so.

Betty and I attended the Mt. Zion Baptist Church located just outside the State Park entrance.  The 8:30 service had a small turnout.  Afterward, I changed into hiking clothes and as Betty was driving me to the starting point, we noticed the 11AM service had a packed parking lot.

Betty had just dropped me along the road when the rain started.  It continued, off and on all day.  Most of the day I wore my rain parka and kept the pack cover in place.  At times the rain ran down my legs and filled my boots.  Wet socks balled up under soaked feet and kind of made me wish I had brought my rain pants.

A man, at the Conoco convenience store, informed me that the nearby community of Kowaliga had a store with a wooden Indian.  He said it was the inspiration for the Hank Williams song.  Apparently, the wooden Indian was moved to an adjacent restaurant.  The restaurant burned and is now being rebuilt.  Kowaliga is at the south end of the long bridge I crossed yesterday.  My sister, Mae, a country music fan, will have a mild fit when she learns she was within a quartermile of the wooden chief.

Betty poured me in the Honda just before dark.  As we drove back to the RV the rain was so intense we pulled to the side of the road for a few minutes.  Triple “warnings” were out, but the tornados, severe thunderstorms, and floods missed us.

Monday   3/20/00   16 miles/1451 total.   85 trail days.   5 miles north of Alexander City on SR 63 to l mile north of SR 148 on CR 18.    Twenty minutes after Betty dropped me at the day’s start point, a dog took exception to my passage.  Even though most rural homes have dogs, nearly all of them are well behaved.  Those that do challenge me usually are protecting their “territory” and allow me to walk the road without incident.   If a place looks as if it might have a large dog, I try to move to the opposite side of the road.  Many times a few soft spoken words will calm a barking dog to the point of a wagging tail.  This was not the case today, with an angry Rotweiler about the size of a small bear.  This guy came at full speed, with hair standing on end all along his spine.  Deep loud barking was mixed with toothy growling as he charged across the road at me.  I think I skipped the “soft spoken words” technique and went straight to plan “B”.  Pointing my hiking stick low and in front of his face, I tried some loud and forceful commands that I thought he might have heard before.  Most were four letter works and “here” , “come”, “scat”, etc.  All the while, I was slowly backing on up the road.  Finally, this bad actor stopped pressing me but remained behind me.  It is interesting to note that all of the big mean dogs I have encountered have been protecting some trashy, neglected place that no intelligent thief would care about.  I have never seen a big, bad, unruly canine come tearing out of a prim little cottage or a large manicured estate.

The county roads have more hills and are twisting and turning more as I get closer to Talladega National Forest.  About mid-afternoon, as I crested a small knoll, the view to the west was breathtaking.  The southern end of the Appalachian Mountains rose above the rolling terrain.  Maybe ten miles away, even these low mountains looked majestic with a light blue haze as a crown.  After walking over 1400 mostly flat miles, this little preview of the “main event” was refreshing.

In order to get to the southern Pinhoti trailhead as directly as possible, Betty and I had planned a route with many turns from one little road to another.  Some of the roads apparently have no name nor number.  According to plan, I left pieces of pale green surveyor’s tape (ribbon) tied to a sign or bush at each turn.  At the appointed time  Betty came driving up the dirt road I was following.  Her arrival always puts a smile on my face.

Betty:  During the day, I drove to Talladega, AL to the National Forest headquarters to look for detailed maps and information about the Pinhoti Trail.  Talladega National Forest is a huge forest and the headquarters was a 60 mile drive from where we are staying.  Christy welcomed me as I entered the visitor’s center and pulled out the maps Chuck would need.  I asked some questions about the trail and she referred me to Forest Ranger, Jerry Sanderson,  who has hiked the Pinhoti and was very familiar with the trail.  He gave me lots of information to pass on to Chuck.  I will drive back home tomorrow and will be gone for about four days.  Chuck will hike north on the Pinhoti and I will meet him about 50 miles up the trial.

Thursday  3/23/00

Betty:  I didn’t get an early start home on 3/21 and as I was rolling through Ocala at 11 PM, decided it was a good place to spend the night, and continue on the road in the AM.  I  had e-mail  messages from a few folks telling me that my last posting had some problems, which I have been working on.  I apologize for the inconvenience it has caused.  I’m new to computers and sometimes I work 4-5 hours trying to work through a glitch.  Anyway, hopefully I have the problem fixed for the time being.  Thanks to all of you for taking the time to read the journal and also for making me aware when there is a problem.

Chuck called last evening (Wed).  He is on the Pinhoti trail.  On Tuesday, we got up early, got the RV ready for storage and Chuck had his large pack ready for the trail.  Since I will not be there, he is carrying everything he needs to stay on the trail.  He has a large pack, tent, clothing, raingear, water purifying kit, stove, cookware and food for the days I will be gone.  I plan to pick him up on Saturday afternoon.  He said the trail is awesome.  He is hiking on a ridge and is making about 10 miles a day now.  His journal entries will be entered when I meet back up with him, get them typed in, and then find a connection.

Wednesday  3/1/00  14 miles/1109 total.  67 trail days.  Dismal Creek on SR 20 to Freeport.

     This morning we worked on “logistical chores”.  I had some work to do on both vehicles, Betty got on an internet phone line to load about 10 days of journal entries on the website, plus I ordered a pack to replace my favorite old mountain pack.  We had been best of friends off and on for 28 years.  Twice before, I had tossed it, but later would pull it out of the trash and fix it enough to last a while longer.  It’s really gone this time. 

     While I did a short day of hiking, Betty found a laundromat in Freeport and waited for me to hike to her.  An uneventful road hike.

Thursday 3/2/00   25 miles/1134 total.   68 trail days.  Freeport to Walden Rd on US 90 (thru DeFuniak Springs).   Roadwalk through DeFuniak Springs then on US 90 to Walden Road, about 7 miles east of Mossy Head (SR 285).

     This morning Betty went to Eglin AFB and got a permit that I need to hike the new Eglin portion of the FT.  She also picked up a decal for the car at Vehicle Registration.  This afternoon she downloaded our e-mail messages.  We had a message from Mack Thetford saying that he and Vernon Compton are departing tomorrow for the annual FT conference and won’t be able to hike with me.  Too bad, because they are both loaded with local information.  Vernon is the Section Leader here and has been directing a lot of trail construction that is on the route I plan to take.  Mack works at the University of Florida Field Station and is very knowledgable about local plant life.  I phoned Vernon and he gave me an outline of the completed and partially completed trails I could take.

     The good news is that we received a call from Ed Walker, whom I had met last November while helping with the construction of the Eglin trail.  Ed told me how to get on some of the most recently completed trail on Eglin.  He plans to meet me on the trail tomorrow.  Also he may be able to hike with me again on Monday.

Friday 3/3/00  18 miles/1152 total.   69 trail days.  Walden Rd on US 90 thru Eglin to Stokes Rd.

We moved the RV forward to Mossy Head and parked beside the road for the day.  Betty took me back to my start point and I knocked out about five more road miles.  Just as I was walking up to the junction of SR 285 at Mossy Head, Ed Walker arrived.  We drove to the point that the trail enters Eglin AFB and discussed the route while referring to several maps.  Ed could not hike today, but thought he could get away on Monday.  He drove me back to our meeting point and he departed.  By the time I had lunch, hiked to the Eglin trail, and doctored a blister, it was 1:30 pm.  Parts of the new Eglin trail were well marked and trimmed.  Other parts were only flagged with colored tape.  My progress was much slower than usual for this type terrain.  Sometime during mid-afternoon, Ed called on the cell phone to clarify the exit point that Betty should meet me.  He also said that the trail I was hiking was 3 or 4 miles longer than he had told me earlier and that as much as a mile of the trail was not marked.  As I moved on, it was obvious that, at the slow rate I was moving, I would not complete the additional length until well after dark.  It is very difficult to follow a trail at night; some of the blazes are a challenge in the daytime.  When I came upon a northbound dirt road, I decided to head for US 90 rather than grope  for the trail in the night.  Also, weighing on my mind was the situation with Eglin AFB.  Only recently had the officials at Eglin finally permitted a trail on their base.  This trail is not really completed nor is it actually open for public use.  I certainly did not want to take a chance on embarrassing the Florida Trail Association with a search and rescue operation even before the trail was finished. 

     The dirt road north to US90 was through Shoal River Ranch, a huge peanut farm.  The area had not yet been planted and appeared to be a wasteland in all directions.  As I stopped for a drink from my water bottle, a young man drove alongside in a new diesel pick-up with two dogs in the back.  After chatting a few minutes Scott Sherril offered me a ride out to US 90 (the opposite direction he was going).  I thanked him,  but declined.  He had a four-wheeler in the back of the pick-up and said I was welcome to drive it out to the highway and he would get it later.  I explained that the trace I was walking must not be interrupted.  Scott is the resident foreman and lives in a nice, but isolated house that I had passed earlier.  He and his young bride seem to work hard, but have a good life and a bright future.

     Soon after Scott went on his way, a road grader came by me.  Tom also wanted to give me a lift.  Another mile or so down this isolated farm road, Scott drove up again and offered to let me stay in a bunk house nearby and wanted to know what my plans were for dinner.  After multiple thanks, he turned around and went back toward his house.

     Shortly after arriving at US 90, I saw a Holiday Rambler, RV, coming toward me, it was Betty towing the Honda.  We waved at each other, but she could not pull of the road for about two miles.  In just a few minutes, she had parked the RV, unhitched the Honda and was back to get me.

     We found an abandoned parking lot and called it home for the night.  After a beer and pizza at Pizza Hut next door, my feet felt better.  It was a long day.

Saturday  3/4/00   21 miles/1173 total.   70 trail days.  Stokes Rd to 2 miles west of Holt on US 90.

Betty took me to Stokes Road (a private, paved lane up to some buildings under large trees).  As I started hiking toward Crestview, I noticed an elderly couple on the hill, out for a morning walk.  It was nearly a mile before Betty drove by me on her way back to the rig.  Later, she told me that the couple, the Stokes, had walked down to chat with her.  They like to walk and were interested in our hike.

     About 9AM I was passing a convenience store and stopped for a mid-morning snack.  There was a National Guard Armory next door and several soldiers in their BDUs (Battle Dress Uniform aka Camouflage Fatigues) were at the rear of the building.  As I walked through the Armory parking lot, I noticed the front door was open and stepped inside the entryway.  An old bearded man wearing a backpack, shorts and a crumpled hat with a walking stick in one hand and a bottle of milk and a cherry turnover in the other, must look pretty “homeless”.  Their trophy case had lots of unit awards, citations and trophies; it was a 160th Signal Company.  A cute, young PFC walked up and asked if she could help me.  I told her that I saw the unit awards for service during Desert Storm and that I knew Signal units were key to our success there.  “Did you accompany the unit to Desert Storm”?, I asked.  She chuckled and said “Oh no, I was only in the forth grade then”.  Then she added, “were you in the military when you were young?”  A little embarrassed by the whole conversation, I told her, “Yes, I was in the ‘Old Army’!” and bid her farewell as I made a hasty exit.  Walking on, my mind was busy trying to calculate how this soldier could have possibly been in grade school during the seemingly recent Desert Storm.  Just after passing through the busy town of Crestview and back in a very rural area, a couple of older  men asked about my hike.  One of them observed, “Well, guess you aren’t too concerned about the gas prices that are reaching record highs.”

     For over a hundred miles when along some highways, there have been many work crews with specialized heavy equipment installing under-ground cables.  It is the portion of the “Information Super Highway” from Houston, Texas to Tallahassee.  They bury 12 plastic conduit cables three or four feet deep.  The conduit is empty as they will “snake” fiber optic cable through it later.  This is one big linear operation strung out (off and on) for miles.  Surveyors, crews checking for previously buried cables and gas lines, tractor trailers hauling materials and equipment,  plus hundreds of others, all working to make our little website a bit faster to download.

     Meanwhile, Betty has been up to Blackwater River State Park and then to the State Forest checking on campsites, roads, trails and a possible church for Sunday.  When she picked me up, we moved the RV to a spot on Hurricane Lake in the northern part of Blackwater River State Forest.  This will be our last campsite in Florida before moving into Alabama and the Conecuh National Forest in about three days.

Sunday  3/5/00  8 miles/1181 total   71 trail days.  2 miles west of Holt on US 90 to Blackwater River State Park entrance.  We took the morning off to accompany our new neighbors, Sam and Toby plus the campground hostess Shirley to a local country church – the Good Hope Congregational Church.  We followed Sam about 10 miles in a cloud of dust down dry clay surfaced roads.  It was a small but very friendly group and man, could they sing!!  Over one-half of the congregation was in the choir.  Upon hearing the first few notes roll out of the piano, we knew it was jubilation time.  They (we) sang 10 or 12 lively hymns only breaking long enough to announce the page number of the next song.  After the service, we all had a “pitch-in” lunch in the backroom.  Great food and desserts to die for.  Hanging from the ceiling in this community room were large quilting frames that had been hoisted up to clear the tables for the feast.  Jeanette Henderson and I talked at length about the history of the area.  Jeanette is a prime mover with the local museum in nearby Baker, Florida.

     In the afternoon it was back on the trail.  Just before hiking into Holden, I turned north off  the traditional Florida Trail that goes another 70 miles to Fort Pickens at the west end of Pensacola Beach.  I went north on Timber Crest Road toward Blackwater River State Park and Blackwater River State Forest, a spur of the Florida Trail that has been authorized for “thru-hikers” going on northward.  We plan to come back sometime (maybe next fall) and hike more of the Eglin portion when it is completed.

     Betty met me at the State Park entrance and we were soon at our campsite on Hurricane Lake.

Monday  3/6/00   14 miles/1195 total.  72 trail days.  Blackwater River State Park entrance to SR 4 and McVey Road.  Ed Walker was unable to phone us last night to coordinate a meeting place because our cellular connection was very weak.  This morning I stood on top of the RV and got a weak connection.  Ed’s wife said he was on the way.  Betty and I found him on a road near the FT.  He left his truck near the entrance to Blackwater River State Park and we hiked north to the start of Jackson Trail (also FT).  Ed had worked on some sections of this trail.  He told me about the challanging mission of the Western Gate Chapter.  They are one of the smallest chapters in the Florida Trail Association, but may be responsible for the most miles of trail.  Just the job of constructing about 80 miles of new trail on Eglin AFB is daunting.  Vernon Compton, the Section Leader, and his dedicated group of volunteers are doing a great job methodically working away at this overwhelming task.

     Even though the forest is budding more and more each day, it is very dry.  Ed said last year was drier than normal and that this past January the rainfall was eight inches below normal.

     In the afternoon a fire broke out in the southern part of Blackwater River State Forest, about 15 miles south in the area I hiked through yesterday.

     We were early when we reached SR 4, where we planned to meet Betty.  She arrived a few minutes later and took us back to Ed’s truck.  I was glad Ed wanted to hike again tomorrow, we had a pleasant day and the conversation helped the miles slip by painlessly.

     Betty had spent the day driving forward to Alabama to check on campsites, checked in at the park headquarters where Gladys and Alex provided the maps we will need in the next couple days and said she could update the website at their headquarters while we are in their area.  She also arranged with David Kramer, at Blackwater River State Forest to tap into a phone line to update the website tomorrow. The folks at the Forest Headquarters are very busy with maintenance and fire fighting and prevention, so we appreciate their letting us use one of their lines.  We will move the RV into Alabama on Wednesday. 

     As Betty and I arrived at our campsite on Hurricane Lake, Shirley, the Campground Hostess invited us to join the five other campers around a campfire for chili dogs.  It was great food and the stories got better as the night went on.  Elmer told about the snuff dipping old woman who ran a country grill with a short order grill.  He said you could tell she was level headed because the juice ran out of both corners of her mouth.  It also sometimes dripped on the grill, therefore her hamburgers were locally known as “snuff burgers”.

Tuesday  3/7/00   16 miles/1211 total.   73 trail days.  McVey Rd on SR 4 to Hurricane Lake North Campground.   Ed met us at our campsite on Hurricane Lake and left his truck there.  Betty drove Ed and I to our start point on SR 4.

     Our hike continued NW on Jackson Trail.  By noon we turned left on the Wiregrass Trail and were moving north toward Hurricane Lake.  The blazes on the Wiregrass Trail are white and easier to spot than orange, but they seem more out of place in the forest. 

     As we walked across the dam at Hurricane Lake, Betty and my sister, Mae, were walking toward us.  Mae, who lives in Naples, had arrived a couple of hours earlier.  Betty had intended to be there when Mae arrived but she was flagged down by three kids who had rolled their car.  She took them to Crestview, an extra 40 mile loop.

     We visited a while, drove some of the roads in the area we would hike across tomorrow, and went to dinner at the Gator Cafe in Baker.  Our waitress, Meegan, was a perky young lady from Crestview.  She was the final benefactor of the triple tip play until we find more cash alongside the road.

    When we returned to camp, Shirley Keel, the campground hostess, and our neighbors, Sam and Toby Wimberly sat around our picnic table having ice cream and strawberries.  Sam & Toby related some of their RV travels including an adventure to Alaska.  Sam said one thing he had learned about driving a big rig was that if it looks like it might not fit, speed up!

     One of the many things on Betty’s list of things to do today, was to update the website.  She went to see David Kramer at the Forest Headquarters, and although he spent a long time trying to find a regular phone jack, they have recently changed their phone system and didn’t have one jack that was compatible with our computer, so the plan now is to look for a new place to connect.

Wednesday  3/8/00  13 miles/1223 total.  74 trail days.  Hurricane Lake Campground to Alabama County Road 37   2 miles north of the Florida State line.  Another great morning; light fog on the lake, birds chirping, ducks landing on the still surface of the lake.  All of us hate to leave the Hurricane Lake campground.  Everything here has been great; the people, the setting, the weather, the hiking.  Even the bathhouse is one of the nicest and cleanest that we have visited.

     We moved the RV to “Open Pond”, a campground in Conecuh National Forest, Alabama.  After an early lunch, Betty, Mae and I went back to Hurricane Lake to resume the hike.  We were all hiking north on a very new portion of the Florida Trail.  This is the last few miles of the FT on the spur constructed especially for northbounders.  It is not yet blazed but is well marked with pink ribbon.  This afternoon’s hike was special for me; both Betty and Mae had hiked with me on the southern most part of the Florida Trail in the Big Cypress and now were here for the northern most part reaching to Alabama.  Of course, it was also significant to be completing the Florida Trail part of our saga.  Before starting, I visualized the entire hike being five segments: Key West to the Florida Trail, the Florida Trail, Alabama and Georgia Connector Trails, the Appalachian Trial, and the International Appalachian Trail from Maine, thru New Brunswick to Cape Gaspe, Quebec in Canada.  The first part Key West to the FT was 183 miles and took 11 days, the Florida Trail took me 63 days (includes two rest days) to do 1,038 miles.  My guess is that the Alabama-Georgia connector trails will be over 450 miles.

     After hiking with Chuck for a couple hours, Mae and I (Betty) went into Baker, FL to go to the Baker Block Museum.  The museum was interesting and impressive.  We had a great visit and told Jeanette we’d love to come back to the museum again once this trek is behind us, as I know Chuck will want to see it too.

Thursday  3/9/00  Chuck is out hiking and Mae and I had to come into Crestview to take care of business.  While here, we checked with the folks at the local VFW  Post # 5450, to see if they would let me update the website.  What a great group of folks!  You are reading this because they said “Yes”.

Tuesday 2/1/00 20 miles/613 total 39 trail days. Juniper Springs to CR 314. On the trail at 8AM, all morning I was hiking through Juniper Prairie Wilderness Area. The hiking was great; cool, light fog with sun coming through. It had rained most of the day yesterday so all of the tracks were fresh and clear. I saw lots of deer tracks, some raccoon, opossum and many gray squirrel. About mid-morning I saw a dog’s track for a mile or more on the trail. This was a bit unusual for a wilderness area and also because there were no human tracks with it, as is normally the case. Eventually, I spotted a good looking hound with collar, ahead of me. He was shy and kept moving away, on down the trail. After another mile or two the tracks ceased and never reappeared. Hunting season terminated on 13 January, I suspect someone lost a good dog. Betty’s note: Chuck called for the dog, but the dog wouldn’t come near him. We did let the rangers know his position when Chuck saw him last.

About noon, I started along the north side of Hopkins Prairie. What looked to be about a half mile walk went on and on. Just as the Prairie was about to end, it would turn a little and open up for more miles. This went on for nearly 5 miles.

I met a lone day-hiker; he must have thought I was some kind of nut. When I saw he was wearing a “Smokey Mountains” sweat shirt, I thought he might be “River Otter”, a hiker who started in Canada and is thought to be moving south in this area. So, I asked “Are you ‘River Otter’?” He gave me a funny look and I tried to explain: “Oh, I thought you might be hiking down from Canada.” By this time the guy was trying to ease around me and move on down the trail. He shook his head no and quickly moved on.

I saw and heard lots of birds today: Osprey, Eagles, Florida Scrub Jay (threatened), Sand-hill Cranes, Red-cockaded Woodpecker, Red-headed woodpeckers, Pine Siskins, and the usual Crows. I also saw a Fox Squirrel. Most of the FTA (actually, most of Florida) has a lot of bird life. This afternoon I saw where a Gray Fox ran down the trail a short way, probably last night or early this morning. It was a good day – I love this trail!!

Wednesday 2/2/00 19 miles/632 total 40 trail days. CR 314 to Rodman Dam (east side).

Another great day in Ocala National Forest! I started hiking at 7:30, the cool weather (in the 40’s) felt good. The trail was in Long Leaf Yellow Pine again and full of birds, especially in openings with Scrub Oak and Palmetto. I saw bunches of Rufous Sided Towhees and many others too fleeting and too distant to identify. I wish I were hiking with a good “birder”. Just a mile or so into the day’s hike, I spotted bear tracks in the trail. Now this is not so unusual, but these were big, crisp, clear tracks that showed in excellent detail; obviously fresh. Some were so good that I had to get pictures even though I know that track pictures do not usually turn out well. These tracks continued down the trail in front of me. After about 1/2 mile of following them, I came upon fresh bear droppings – so fresh I could see the steamy heat rising. At first I thought the tracks were probably made last night, but now I knew that critter was just up the trail in front of me. I got the camera out again and held it in my right hand while I carried my hiking stick in my left hand. The trail was damp and mostly sand so I was moving quietly, the light breeze was out of the NE, my right front, PERFECT! At every turn, I just knew the perfect picture would appear. Now I was getting particular; I would really like to get a picture with the bear just in front of a tree with a bright orange blaze. Apparently, he did not know I was following him, because the tracks indicated a walking pace and occasionally he would scratch the soil after bugs or grubs, I guessed. This photo stalking continued for about 15 minutes, then in an open area covered with very dense scrub oak and palmetto, I could not find the tracks. While searching around for them, I smelled a rank, musky odor and knew that guy either was really close or had been just moments ago. I’ve detected the same odor before around bears, especially one time when I helped relocate a tranquilized one. After some searching around and no further evidence, I moved on down the trail without anymore bear sign. He must have slipped off to the side. After this, the rest of the day was anti-climatic.

There was one interesting occurrence. A dead crow was lying beside the trail. The feathers strewn about and two small pools of blood. The disturbed trail surface told a story of a life and death drama in the forest. With a flick of my hiking stick, I turned the limp crow carcass to find the head, breast and some innards missing. Clearly leaving the scene were fox tracks marching right up the trail. About 50 feet away, a few feathers and more marks in the soil were signs the fox had a big breakfast. No more tracks. Almost a half mile later in a large open area, I spotted a fox coming back parallel to the trail – I think he had a smirk of satisfaction.

Arriving early at Rodman Dam, I hiked across and waited for Betty on the east side. She arrived about 15 minutes ahead of schedule.

Thursday 2/3/00 12 miles/644 total. 41 trail days. Rodman Dam to SR 20. We moved the RV forward then Betty drove me back to Rodman Dam to start the day’s hike. It took longer to locate a place for the RV than we had planned, so I did not get on the trail until 11:30AM.

This part of the FT coincides with the Cross Florida Greenway. The trail here is on top of the bank alongside the Cross Florida Barge Canal. At the Buckman lock, the FT crosses the canal and moves north. Lock operator, Jim Baldwin, rode his bike over to let me in the back gate. We chatted as we took the cross-walk over the canal/lock. Jim said he had seen very few FT hikers cross in the six months he had worked on the lock.

On a forest road, I was overtaken by a hunter on a four-wheeler. He came to a stop beside me and we both realized we had met before. His name was Paul. I thought maybe I knew him from the Army, but he had never been in the Army, had never been to Naples and did not go to the University of Florida. He said he had done marine work all his life. I told him that I had done some sailing, but he said he didn’t mess with sailboats. So, I told him we had been with friends on their trawler on the Inter-coastal waterway. Then he said, “Were you ever on the St. John’s River?” When I told him we had gone up the St John’s to Lake George, Paul said “Did you wait out a hurricane in Palatka?” And, that was the connection. He even remembered that the “Captain” was also retired from the Army. Old Captain Clay Kelley, First Mate Marybeth and their trawler “Tanuki” seem to make an impression wherever they cruise. They are cruising in the Bahamas right now.

The trail continued north on sandy woods roads, an old railroad grade and across large fields that had been plowed with a bulldozer for planting pine seedlings.

I already miss the Ocala National Forest.

Friday 2/4/00 22 miles/666 total 42 trail days. SR 20 to Coral Farms Rd and Tinsley Rd intersection. Shortly after Betty dropped me off at SR 20, I spotted three deer on the opposite side of a large open area. While walking along a sandy woods road I saw the tracks of a bobcat that had walked the same route earlier. About 9AM, I passed a small work crew off-loading their equipment. As we talked, I found that the older man, Walter Motes (70’s), owned a lot of the land I was passing through. They were fencing a field of seedling Slash Pine. Walter said he didn’t have much money, but that having the land made him feel good, better than having money. He told me it would be 18 years before these new seedlings could be used for pulp wood and 24 years before using them for plywood.

As I bid them all farewell, Walter pulled off his right glove, shook my hand and said “don’t you get cold hiking without any pants?” I was wearing shorts. All that morning I hiked through young stands of pine in various stages of growth.

I pulled off my boots and socks and layed them on the dry grass to dry in the sun as I ate my lunch. Since my shirt was sweat soaked, I took it off, pushed my walking stick through the arms and hung it on a branch to dry. The first part of the afternoon, I hiked on some sand roads. I saw lots of wild turkey tracks and as nearly always, a lot of deer sign. As the trail neared Etonia Creek State Forest, it entered a heavily wooded area. The ground was covered with pine needles and dried leaves (mostly oak), so animal tracks were not so obvious. New types of trees keep appearing as we move north. Today there were Red Maple, Magnolia, Turkey Oak and Southern Red Oak. When the sun is low in the west the blazes are more difficult to see. Additionally, Red Blanket Lichen is often in patches on trees in this area. In low light it can sometimes be mistaken for an orange blaze. About 5PM, a doe appeared on the trail in front of me. Since I was out of film, I just kept walking toward her. She pranced into a thicket almost unconcerned when I was at about 100 feet.

I arrived at our predetermined meeting place about 10 minutes later than planned. Betty had already arrived and had driven on up Coral Farms Road to see if I had continued to hike. She returned minutes later with the news that she had seen a Florida Panther just a few minutes earlier. It had crossed the road in front of the car. She had seen all the identifying features; there was not doubt in my mind that it was indeed a panther. It made my usual talk of tracks a little dull. Betty had spent the day in Gainesville working at the FTA office. Betty: When I dropped Chuck off this morning, I stopped to get gas in the car and called the Florida Trail Association to see if they needed any volunteer help. They said they could definately keep me busy, so I headed in. We like to give something back to the trail as we’re going and helping in the office is one of the things I can do to help out. Chuck has worked on the trail several times. I had about an hours drive from where Chuck was dropped off. When I arrived at the office, I met Diane and Judy, who work there full time. Later in the day I met Jamie. The office is in a neat converted house that sits along the side of Hwy 441. Normally, we have only written or phone contact with the Association office, so it was nice to have physical contact as well. When I left in the afternoon I told them I would be back on Monday. We will still be within an hour’s drive. After Monday we will have moved further north. I really enjoyed meeting them and am looking forward to helping out on Monday. Now, I have to admit that the highlight of the day was the Florida Panther crossing the road in front of the car. I was so excited I missed the road that Chuck was coming out on and had to backtrack.

Saturday 2/5/00 20 miles/686 total. Coral Farms Road to Keystone Airport Road. The first part of today’s hike was on backcountry roads. The signs of young families making a place for themselves in a beautiful country setting were everywhere. Folks who want some elbow room and space for kids to roam and explore had modest starter homes in the woods and some on lakes. After a few miles, the trail entered Goldhead Branch State Park. The trail enters the park near their service area and a pick-up truck pulled over to see what I was doing. Fred Johnson, a Florida Park service volunteer, was interested in my hike and I quizzed him about working in parks on a part time basis. He asked about wildlife sightings and I told him that I see a lot of tracks but my wife sees as much wildlife as I do. I told him about her seeing nearly a dozen wild turkeys this morning and a rare Florida Panther yesterday. He said there had been several reports of a panther in the area and that he was thrilled just to have seen panther tracks. Fred lives in New York near Dalton and the Appalachian Trail. Every year he drives his camper to Florida and works as a park volunteer. He told me about the unusual Sherman Fox Squirrel that is in Goldhead Branch State Park. This large squirrel has a black “Lone Ranger” mask much like a raccoon. The trail thru the park was beautiful, just before exiting, I found a place to leave a note for Joan Hobson. Joan is thru-hiking and started about two weeks after I did. She will celebrate her 70th birthday while on the trail. This will be her second thru-hike, plus she has section hiked the entire trail. As I left the park, I stopped by the Ranger Station and talked with Rod. We had a good talk and he told me some of the history of the park. After a short hike down SR 21, the trail turned west into Camp Blanding, an Army National Guard Training Area. Great area that the FTA is fortunate to have permission to hike through. The trail winds around Lake Lowery and out the west boundary. Prior to entering, I called Range Control for permission to pass through the maneuver area. SFC DeLance at Range Control was very helpful and asked me to notify him upon departure. The trail thru Camp Blanding needs some immediate maintenance, both brushing and blazing. Also, the transition when departing the Post is not well marked. However it is “doable”. Met Betty on Keystone Airport Road about 10 minutes later than our plan.

Note: Today at about Goldhead Branch State Park marked the halfway point of the route I am taking on the Florida Trail, this is just for the FT not the portion from Key West to the start of the FT.

Sunday 2/6/00 9 miles/691 total. Keystone Airport Road to KOA in Starke. We decided to make this a more relaxed day than usual. After catching the log up to date we attended the Sunday breakfast that the family running this RV park puts on each week. Then we used their computer phone line to send out a week’s worth of email messages and publish the latest pages on the web site, plus download incoming email. Finished this and went to the Starke Presbyterian Church; what a delight. We were about 30 minutes early and the second couple to arrive, but already an elderly man was playing a violin filling the beautiful old church with a relaxing prelude as the congregation arrived. Being a small town everyone wanted to know about the strangers; were we moving to town? how long would we be here? where are we from? what brings us to Starke? would we be coming back to church? All were friendly and made us feel most welcome. After lunch, Betty drove me to Keystone Airport Road for a short hike up to Starke. Today was a dreaded “road hike” north on SR 100. Having spent a lot of time hiking, and previously horseback riding, along roadsides, I have found various ways of entertaining myself to help the rather boring miles go by a little faster. One of my favorites is picking up money, usually pennies and keeping track of the day or week’s find. Since Key West I have found about five dollars all in change except for one dollar bill. Today, I saw a new looking nylon fabric wallet laying open and face down. With a flick of my hiking stick, I turned it over and saw that it had no cards, IDs, etc. so I almost left it thinking someone had cleaned out and tossed it. But I stepped back, picked it up and found that it had nothing in any of the many compartments, however, in a hidden zippered area were a bunch of twenties and a five. It felt kind of strange, I looked around to see if I was being watched, then counted $125. Don’t you just hate it when there is not a clue as to how to return it to the poor fellow who lost it? Took my bride to dinner in Starke and left the waitress an extra large tip.

Monday 2/7/00 25 miles/716 total. 45 trail days. Starke KOA to Bridge on CR 231. More of the uninspiring “road walk”. Left Starke on SR100 and went nearly 16 miles in a straight line, then, just past Lake Butler, north on CR 231 to a point where the trail is a real TRAIL. The bridge that Betty and I had chosen as a meeting point was being replaced and the road was closed. However, after a little looking around, she found me; if I ever really tried to hide it would be useless. I think she has a sixth sense. When I saw that the road was closed, I found a woman trimming some bushes back a country lane. She gladly filled me in on the bridge construction, the detour and the history of Union County. Union is the smallest of Florida’s 67 counties. Alice Ellington said her great-grandfather moved here from Georgia. Now she is surrounded by kin, including lots of grandkids. All the family works in their road construction business. Nice lady.

For the road hike today I tried wearing a pair of New Balance low cut hiking boots that I bought a few weeks ago. The first few times I wore them, a seam on top of the inside of the left boot rubbed the top of my big toe raw. After a few days, I stopped wearing them. I had tried the old trick of rubbing the offending area with a stone, with no luck. When “Natty Bumpo” was hiking with me, he suggested rubbing the area with a fine grit sandpaper. I did and they seem to be fine now. Thanks, Natty!

We recently talked with my sister, Mae, in Naples and were happy to hear that she will be taking an early retirement and will be joining us, periodically, on the hike starting in March; great, she’ll love it!!

An update on the found money. I should explain that as Roger Rose and I were hiking the Florida Keys portion, he would find a dime for every penny I found. Plus, his were usually “heads-up” and mine usually “tails”. Anyway, Roger, you better get back on the trail soon, you have some catching up to do. Also, on last night’s dinner out with “found money”, we went to a local Bar-B-Que restaurant. Cynthia, our very efficient waitress was a young single mom working two jobs. We hope the “triple tip” brought a smile to her face at the end of a long day. The idea of the “triple tip” appealed to us so much we decided to dole out the remainder of the “found money” that way. Over time, the cash someone lost will hopefully bring a little sunshine to several people. If we could just find enough money we could have half of North Florida in a mild state of euphoria.

Tuesday 2/8/00 13 miles/729 total. 46 trail days. Bridge on 231 to Olustee Battlefield Memorial on US 90. This morning we topped off with LP gas then relocated the RV to Ocean Pond Campsite in Osceola National Forest. On the way, we stopped by the National Forest District Headquarters. The District Ranger, Keith Lawrence, gave us a very interesting overview of the Osceola forest and the surrounding area. The landform in this area is called flatwoods. It is a flat basin that extends from the Okeefenokee Swamp in the north to Osceola National Forest in the south. Consequently, this forest doesn’t drain well and has a lot of standing water (swamp).

After lunch, Betty took me back south of the National Forest to the bridge for an afternoon of hiking through timber farms. Other than a lot of bobcat tracks and several turkey tracks, the hike was uneventful. I met Betty at the Olustee Battlefield Memorial which is on the southern edge of the Osceola National Forest.

Betty checked our e-mail and we had several messages – we love hearing from you. One of our messages was from our niece, Tiph, in Minnesota. She has cleared her summer schedule and will be joining us when her school breaks for the summer; she is a school counselor. We always have a good time when she is with us. Tiph lived with us for two summers in Hawaii and she hiked the Colorado Trail with us a couple years ago. Talked on the phone with “Natty Bumpo” and Judy and they are going to try to join us in late summer/early fall. Also, Roger is heading back up in late February.

I’m (Betty) sitting here on the edge of Ocean Pond writing this. It is a beautiful, serene, campsite in the National Forest. WOW!! I’m heading up to White Springs this afternoon to look for a future place for the RV. We’ll move it tomorrow. The Stephen Foster State Folk Culture Center is there. Also, the Suwannee River State Park is in the area. We should be able to find a great place. Even though the logistics of my hiking are a nightmare, a part of the trail tomorrow is along the Suwannee River and I am planning to hike it with Chuck.

Those of you who are reading this and keeping up with our progress can help us out by providing input as to what is interesting to you. Also, some of you are letting us know when there are glitches in the website. Unfortunately, every time I update the site, the way this program works, it reprints the whole site instead of just adding the last pages, and sometimes when it does that, for some unknown reason if everything doesn’t click just right, we have problems. I usually won’t know about the problems unless you let me know – so please keep up the good work. Thanks.

Wednesday 2/9/00 20 miles/749 total. 47 trail days. Olustee, FL to Deep Creek Trail Head on Drew Grade. Betty hiked through the Olustee Battlefield area with me as we started the day’s hike. Several work crews were setting up for their annual re-enactment of the Civil War Skirmish, which will be this coming weekend. Hiking through the pine and palmetto flatwoods is not as interesting as some of the other areas, but it is good to be off the roads and back in the woods. There is something special about being in a forest. A protected and nurturing feeling which is both secure and exciting always seems to be present. You can’t help but like the woods!

About lunchtime I came across my first actual backpacker since the Big Cypress weeks ago. EZ DUZIT, from Long Island, NY, was hiking for a few days in Osceola National Forest then he was meeting friends to hike around Lake Okeechobee. He completed a “section” thru-hike of the Appalachian Trail earlier this year. We talked for over an hour while I ate lunch.

Later in the afternoon, I flushed another wild turkey. As I watched it fly away, two more took off, then another and even more. I think the total was nine; quite exciting since they were only a few feet away in the Palmettos. Bill Quayle – eat your heart out! The only other observation of note is that their were several clusters of red-cockaded woodpeckers near the trail. These endangered little creatures only nest and roost in mature (80+ year old) living pine. They may take several years to excavate a suitable cavity in the heart of these old pine trees. Trail trivia: Cockade is a small feather sometimes worn in a hat. The male red-cockaded woodpecker has tiny, rarely visible, red feathers above their cheek, just behind their eye. Hence, the colorfully named bird is actually observed as black and white.

Thursday 2/10/00 15 miles/764 total. 48 trail days. Deep Creek Trail Head to Suwannee Valley Campground in White Springs. Yesterday Betty located an RV park about a day’s hike away and right on the Florida Trail. This morning we moved the RV forward to White Springs, FL. then Betty drove me back to Deep Creek Trail Head to start the day’s hike. After an uneventful 8 mile “road walk”, Betty met me so that she could accompany me for the afternoon hike along the Suwannee River. As she arrived, I was standing in the middle of the road talking with a local lady who had driven by and stopped to find out what I was doing. Fannie Mae Winns chatted with us a while and Betty took a picture before we moved on. At this point the trail follows the south bank of the Suwannee River and is about 30 feet above it. It was a beautiful hike on a beautiful day. Since Betty is usually busy with the logistics of the hike, she seldom gets to hike, so I was glad that the weather and the scenery were great. Older long leaf pine and live oak trees draped with Spanish Moss lined the trail. The Florida Trail goes through the campground, so we then drove the RV back to pick up the Honda which we had left on the trail. We returned to the campground just in time to shower and attend a pot luck dinner at the community center. It was a great day!!

Friday 2/11/00 18 miles/782 total. 49 trail days. Suwannee Valley Campground to Crooked Ranch Branch (Picnic Table). This was one of those rare days when I could hike directly out of the RV onto the trail. The FT crosses to the north side of the Suwannee River in White Springs where it enters the Stephen Foster State Folk Culture Center. It continues on the north bank with great views. Some of the hiking is up and down the ravine banks of streams flowing into the Suwannee. As I passed through the corner of White Springs, I had to stop by “Jerry’s Woodshed” to check out his carvings. Quite a guy, this Jerry; he traveled on his motorcycle for 5 years living out of a tent, he thru-hiked the Appalachian Trail about 10 years ago and is scared that his roots are sinking in too far now (he’s been here over a year). While there, I asked if he could make us a little name plate for our RV. He said it would be ready in the afternoon. The trail along the river is very scenic, at times there are white sandy beaches with the clear dark water flowing easily by, other times the water is clear and blue from springs, sometimes the banks are vertical bluffs of white limestone nearly a hundred feet above the water. At one point, I passed a large two-story rustic looking house. A man outside asked if I needed water or anything. I told him thanks and complimented him on his house and surrounding buildings. As we talked, R. J. Tennis told me all about the house and the local area. When I told him about stopping at “Jerry’s Woodshed”, he told me that he owned that property, and a camp that I would pass through later. He invited me in to see the elevator he had installed for his wife and his mother. RJ and his wife had decorated the interior of the large, high ceilinged, great room with American Indian and eagle items and artifacts. He proudly showed me his arrowhead collection. Anyway, a couple of pictures and I was back on the trail. At one point I passed through a densely wooded area with thousands of birds darting from tree to tree filling the air with a cacophony of chirping, chatter and song. They looked like mostly robins, cardinals, vireos and tohees, however, they were mostly high in the trees, shaded with glaring spots of sun, making it hard to see any detail well. Betty met me at what the map called “Crooked Ranch” branch. As we drove back into White Springs, we saw “EZ Duz It” and stopped to introduce him to Betty. Then, a hundred feet away, were two young, lean guys with disassembled bicycles strewn about on the ground at the rear of a van. The van appeared to be filled with bike and camping gear. As I struck up a conversation with them, we discovered that they were the Leuschel brothers that “Nimblewill Nomad” had told me about. They started north from Key West on 14 Jan 00 and were hiking some, but biking mostly. Like us they wanted to get to the Appalachian Trail early enough to have a chance at completing it this fall. Jon and Dan said they still had to bike 17 miles before dark. They accepted our invitation to join us for spaghetti at the RV after their ride. Later, as we ate and compared notes the excitement was high. Yet that night they planned to drive to South Carolina to surprise Jon’s wife Sara the following day; her birthday. We swapped phone numbers and e-mail addresses before they were off into the night.

Saturday  2/12/00     0 miles/782 total.  50 trail days.  Rest Day – remained in White Springs.

     We had a number of little chores to catch up on plus we wanted to visit some of the local sites so we called this a “Rest Day”.

     After cleaning my gear, repairing a window blind, answering e-mail, posting the website, etc, we visited the Stephen Foster State Folk Cultural Center.  It was interesting and informative, but it makes you wonder about a white guy born in Pennsylvania, who lived and worked in New York City,  writing songs (many of which were used in Minstrels) about the deep south.  Apparently, Stephen Foster was never in Florida (Suwannee River), nor Kentucky (My Old Kentucky Home).  He never really had a home as an adult, never owned a piano, and spent the pittance he made selling songs, for booze.  And, however politically incorrect it may be today; two of his songs are “State Songs”.  We have a ship, bunches of bridges, schools, etc with his name, a postage stamp with his picture, and a state “cultural” center.  Even though they don’t tell the story here, I’ve heard that Foster died penniless in a drunken stupor on the streets of New York City.  Enuf of that!  We capped off a relaxing day by having “EZ Duz It” (Bob Cunningham) over for dinner.  We had great conversation that ranged from life on the AT to Musicals in New York City.  Bob brought some very good cake, and also gave Betty a tape of Barbra Striesand songs from a very special concert he and his wife attended (they sat next to Jack Nicholson and other notables).  I think Bob just didn’t want me playing my banjo CD of Stephen Foster songs.

Sunday 2/13/00   6 miles/788 total.  51 trail days.  Crooked Branch Ranch (picnic table) to one mile west of Suwannee Springs.  We decided to move the rig forward today and the plan was to give “EZ Duz It” a ride to Suwannee Springs.  He would take two or three days to hike back to his pick-up truck in White Springs. 

     After dropping “EZ” at SuwanneeSprings, we drove on to Suwannee State Forest Campground.  It was nearly 11 AM by the time we were set so we did a short hike to one of the last easy pick-up points on the trail prior to a 15 mile rather isolated stretch.  The hike was uneventful, just the typical beautiful scenery with picturesque views up and down the Suwannee River.  On the way to pick me up, Betty spotted a coyote eating a young calf.  Also, she saw what she thought was a ferret.

Monday 2/14/00   16 miles/804 total.   52 trail days.  One mile west of Suwannee Springs to Agricultural Inspection Station on CR 249.  At about 2AM thunderstorms dropped about 2 – 3 inches of rain on this part of the country.  Tallahassee suffered some flooding and some counties in south Georgia, just north of us, had tornados killing at least 12 people.

     The trail was wet and side streams were rushing to pour into the “Suwannee”.  A light rain continued until about 1PM.  I like being in the woods when all the trees are dripping and everything feels fresh and clean.  It is easier to move quietly on the dampened leaves and pine needles covering the surface of the trail.  It all reminds me of hunting with my Dad when I was a youngster in southern Indiana; good feeling.  In addition to the usual long leaf pine and large live oak trees covered with Spanish moss, there are now Sweet Gum, Water Oak, large White Oak, Geechee Tupelo (similar to Magnolia) and occasionally, a few River Birch.

     Except for a very noisy youth group canoeing down the “Suwannee”, it was a great day, until about the end of the day’s hike when I had difficulty finding the blazes.  After searching a few minutes, I was back on orange marks, however, this was an old portion of the FT that had not been painted out as is theusual procedure.  Anyway, it was nearly dark by the time I determined that this old trail would not lead me to where Betty was waiting.  It took about two hours and an extra four miles of hiking to get it back together.  Betty enlisted the help of a local guy who ran a little store on a sand road in the middle of no place.  Johnnie Adams led her to some locked gates to look in the area that she thought I was hiking through.  I actually popped out of the woods at an Agricultural Inspection Station of CR 249/SR 751.  By this time Johnnie and Betty had gone back to his store and he told her to wait there while he looked in another area.  I called Betty to let her know I was at the Agricultural Station and had a good chat with the inspection officer, Dale Canard, while I waited for Betty.  We then went back to the little store to thank Johnnie for his assistance.  The Adams family has lived in this area for many generations and Johnnie has inherited a lot of land that he does not want to sell, but is trying to make a living off it without getting a “town job”.  It was a long day!! 

Tuesday 2/15/00   20 miles/824 total.  52 trail days.  Agricultural Station on CR 249 to 3 miles south of I-10 on River Rd.  As I started at the Agricultural Station, I checked to see if Dale was on duty.  He wasn’t, instead some big surly guy, with a 9mm pistol hanging in a holster from his side as he leaned back on his chair,  was reading a paperback and really did not appreciate my interruption. 

     It was a good day, the trail had lots of fresh animal tracks; mostly deer.  The route goes north off the Suwannee River to cross the Alapaha River on a bridge then, after a few miles, rejoins the Suwannee and continues down its north bank.  Just a few miles later the trail again goes north away from the Suwannee to cross the Withlacoochee River.  As the path follows the Withlacoochee back down to its confluence with the Suwannee, there is a trail register.  These registers are placed sporadically along the trail and help the Florida Trail Association and various state and federal agencies keep track of trail usage.  Most thru-hikers like them because they tell who has gone before and are a chance to leave a message to those who will pass later.  I always check for other long distance hikers, but seldom see one registered.  Also, I usually leave a note for Joan Hobson, a fellow FTA member, who is about three weeks behind me.  This will be her third thru-hike of the FT and she will turn 70 while on the trail.  I saw notes in the register for “River Otter”, who is hiking south from Canada via  the Appalachian Trail and the Florida Trail.  Apparently he has not been by this register.  A few hikers I’ve talked with suspect that he may have canoed this portion and maybe even all of Florida.

     The trail has recently been moving generally west but now it will dip 10 or 15 miles south before moving west again.  During the dip south it crosses I-10 again.  Betty and I were to meet at the I-10 crossing, but, I arrived about an hour early so I left her a signal that I had moved on down the trail.  She overtook me about 3 miles later.

     An interesting little event took place back at the State Park campground.  I had gone to the bathhouse to shower and Betty was starting dinner, when a lady she had talked to earlier stopped by to get information on some other campsites from Betty.  As the lady was exiting the RV she tripped slightly and grabbed the door to stop her fall.  As she stood outside, she and Betty continued to talk.  Betty then moved outside and closed the door to keep mosquitos from getting inside.  When I returned from the bath house, Betty was standing outside waiting for me.  We were locked out!  When the lady had tripped and grabbed the door, she had turned the lock so that when Betty stepped out and closed the door it locked behind her.  Of course, I did not have a key.  We tried all the windows and various other means but with no luck.  The little Honda was also locked.  Fortunately, my tools were all locked in both the Honda and in compartments under the RV.  Otherwise, I might have caused some real damage as I tried to pry my way inside.  We did have a flashlight and small swiss knife in my pack which was left outside to “air”.  Still no luck, so we called AAA and about an hour and a half later (now 8:30pm) a locksmith, Al Hollie and Cheryle arrived and after about 10 minutes “picked” their way in.  Levi was glad we were rejoining him, Betty was glad she had not left anything cooking on the stove and I was glad I had taken more than a towel to the bath house.  Al and Cheryle were an outgoing older couple who told us of numerous “situations” in which people had locked themselves out.  The best, was a lady whose dog had stepped on the car door lock switch and locked all the doors.  She called Al and as he was trying to pick the lock the dog was barking in his face.  He asked the lady to walk around the car and call the dog to the other side.  She did, and the dog stepped on the lock switch and unlocked the doors.  Then the lady didn’t want to pay Al since he was not the one to get back into the car.

Wednesday  2/16/00   7 miles/831 total.  53 trail days.  3 miles south of I-10 on River Rd to CR 53, 2 1/2 miles north of Madison/Lafayette County line.  This morning we first drove into some of the areas that I would be hiking, to see if Betty could get around to pick me up.  We found many of the roads were chained off by hunting clubs.  After spending most of the morning checking possible pick-up routes, we decided on a plan that involved a short hike today, then a long stretch tomorrow.  Betty dropped me off and I was mostly on sand back roads.  About 3PM a car pulled up beside me and the two older guys inside were asking me about the Florida Trail and wanted to know why it wasn’t routed through some other area they knew about.  Von, the driver, spoke with a low, very raspy voice.  I saw he had some American Legion items on the dashboard and told him I was a member.  Von had been in the Navy and the other guy, Louie, was in the Army.  Louie made three trips to Vietnam – that might have been one too many.  He wore a Vietnam Veteran hat and only grunted approval of what Von said.  As we talked, I noticed they each had a can of beer.  Next thing they were both out of the car with my map on the hood trying to realign the Florida Trail.  It seemed they needed some help, so I accepted their offer of a beer and we decided how the trail should have been routed right there in the middle of the road.  Before departing, Von wrote his name and phone number on a slip of paper and said to call him if we needed any kind of help while in the area.  They were a couple of nice old guys out roaming the backroads just as they had done since they were young guys.  Betty arrived at our meeting point about one minute after I did.  Sometimes it’s difficult to explain how you manage to find a cold beer in the middle of noplace on a hot afternoon.

     We relocated the RV to an RV park in Perry.  They must have cleaned this town up in the past 30 years, used to be you could smell the pulp mills 20 miles away.  Had a great Mexican meal at El Paseo restaurant.  Our waiter, Jose, spoke almost no English, but he was quick on service.  Hope the triple-tip makes him think well of gringos.

Thursday  2/17/00  25 miles/857 total.  54 trail days.  CR 53 to US 221/SR55.  At this point the trail stretches 25 miles mostly across land owned by Foley Land and Timber Company.  Foley Land and Timber Company leased the hunting rights on much of this land to various hunt clubs.  The Florida Trail through this area is on sand back roads used by the timber company and hunters; nearly all of it is chained off and closed to the public.  Knowing it was a long haul, I moved right along at about a 3 1/2 mile per hour pace.  A light mist was in the air throughout the morning; good weather for hiking.  Deer, turkey and bobcat tracks were prevalent all along the way.  The weather cleared in the afternoon and it was sunny, probably near 80 degrees.  Some of the trail is on an old railroad bed that was probably used to log the area years ago.  The ditches along the old RR grade are mostly dry, but in some places there are large pools of water.  Late in the afternoon as the weather cooled, I saw two deer browsing about 200 feet in front of me.  I stepped to the side and noticed the deer were slowly moving in my direction and I thought I might get some really good pictures.  There was a break in the bushes along the side of the sandy road and I eased deeper into them hoping the deer would not detect me.  Then the pool of water just behind me exploded.  Water  was everywhere, a large alligator (probably between 12 feet and 14 feet) thrashed about and slapped his tail a couple of times.  Then on the opposite bank another large gator splashed into the water.  I leaped back into the roadway in time to see the deer signaling their departure with their white tails flying high.  Now the gators had also disappeared, guess it didn’t matter, I had not even gotten my camera out of the carrying case.

     About a half-mile before finishing the day’s hike, I kicked up a covey of quail.  These are the first quail I have seen on the hike.

     I saw Betty pull in to park by the chained gate as I was approaching it from the other side.

Friday    2/18/00   21 miles/878 total.      55 trail days.  US 221 to CR 14.  Just as Betty and I were leaving the campground we met an older gentleman, who was interested in what we were doing.  Wally Bloodworth flew with the fighting 8th Air Force in WWII.  He then went into the oil business and lived in many out of the way places around the world.  He grew up near the King Ranch in Texas and his mom, a school teacher, taught the third generation of the King family in the early 1900’s.  He told of a time when Bob King had grown and was CEO of the multi-billion dollar ranch.  Wally’s mom was in a local store and needed some papers delivered, when she saw Bob King and said “Now ‘Little Bob’ you just take those papers and deliver them on your way to work this morning.”  And, he did!  (School teachers are like that).

     The trail was a repeat of yesterday.  The Foley Land and Timber company goes on and on.  The trees, shrubs and vines are budding.  I think Spring is coming to north Florida.

Saturday   2/19/00  19 miles/897 total.   56 trail days.  CR 14 to Aucilla River Store on US98.

  We “leaped forward” with the RV first thing this morning.  Betty is leaving for Naples this morning and will be gone about 5 days.  My hiking partner, Roger Rose, will join me in two days and will probably be here a week or more.  The plan is to position the RV at the end of today’s hike, tomorrow night I will stay in Shell Island Motel in St. Marks, and the following day I will hike about 20 miles to Medart where Roger will meet me.  We will then go back and retrieve the RV.  The logical thing to do in situations like this is to carry a full size backpack with tent, sleeping bag, stove, food, etc.  However, the extra weight slows me down by several miles per day and I am “kind of” racing against time to get to Springer Mountain, GA in time to have a chance to complete the AT before they close Baxter State Park in Maine on October 15th.

     We received permission, from J.R. at the Aucilla River Store on US98, to leave the RV in his parking lot.  J.R., a confirmed bachelor and a hardcore hunter and fisherman, has an impressive collection of local fish and animals stuffed and on display in the store (some are not so local, such as mulie, caribou and elk).  Betty then dropped me at my start point on CR 14 and she and “Levi” headed for Naples.

     The trail here is still on Foley Land and Timber Company property.  Most of the roads are closed to the public so there is almost no traffic; some days there is none.  I was a little surprised when a nice looking red Toyota pickup pulled alongside me.  It was Albert O’Quinn, whom I had met yesterday when he was in his “work” truck.  Albert maintains the roads and when he is not on his grader, he is cruising in his truck to see where work is needed next.  Since today is Saturday and Albert is in his privately owned truck, I suspect he is off, but he loves his job and likes it outdoors.  He checked on me twice, he said some of the area is easy to make a wrong turn and he wanted to be sure I was on the right  track; I was.  He told me that the Foley property, as well as the pulp mills in Perry, was owned by Proctor & Gamble until about eight years ago.  Pressure from environmental groups and threat of lawsuits apparently caused some corporate slight-of-hand and “voila” Foley Land and Timber Company plus “Buckeye” pulp mills in Perry.  The pulp mills have “cleaned up their act” and eliminated the stench that covered the area 30 miles around Perry until a few years ago.

     By mid-morning I was hiking south along the beautiful Aucilla River.  It is about 75 feet wide with clear dark flowing water.  It was so nice that I stopped at a picturesque rapids for an early lunch.

     A few miles downstream the Aucilla River “goes underground”.  It flows into sinkholes and disappears.  The next several miles of the trail zigzag wildly in an effort to hike by or around everyone of the sinkholes; and there must be thousands.  Some are shaped like craters, others are long, narrow and winding.  Some are dry, but most have water.  There is a lot of limestone rock and the whole area is like “swiss cheese” with the river actually flowing beneath the surface.  The Aucilla springs from the ground again about eight miles south.  Very interesting. 

     The trail turns east away from all the sinks but the ground is still very rocky.  The underbrush is thick in places and sometimes the orange blazes marking the trail are difficult to see in advance.  When the blazes can be spotted well in advance, there is less “wandering” and less idle time spent searching for the trail.  Trying to make good time, I was looking ahead for blazes and clipping right along.  All of a sudden, I heard a loud buzzing hiss almost beside my left foot.  Instinctively, I jumped sideways and away from the sound.  There on the trail was a large coiled rattlesnake.  He could have easily struck me since I was within about one foot of the coil.  He maintained the coil, only moving his head as I took pictures and carefully moved around him out of striking distance.  WOW!  The rest of the day was anti-climatic.

     Triple tipping is temporarily suspended while Betty is gone.

Sunday  2/20/00  21 miles/918 total.  57 trail days.  Aucilla River Store to St. Marks.

     The weather dipped into the 30’s during the night and it was a little nippy when I got underway at first light.  I wanted to make sure I arrived in St. Marks in time to get a boat to take me across St. Marks River.

     Just after crossing the Aucilla River the trail turned south into the woods and on into the St. Marks National Wildlife Refuge.  What a great trail to be hiking early on a crisp morning.  It started as mostly a hardwood forest with some longleaf pine then passed through some swampy areas with cypress and gum.  The deer were still browsing late on this cool morning.  Not only did I see a lot of deer, but also a couple of wild turkeys and a wild sow with six young piglets.

     The terrain changed as the trail got closer to Apalachicola Bay until it was vast expanses of salt water marsh.  After hundreds of miles, I was again seeing some of the same wading birds that we have in south Florida.  The trail approaches the town of St. Marks from the south on an old railroad grade.  As I got closer, I could hear loud music and laughter ahead of me, then all of a sudden I stepped out of the bushes and there was the St. Marks River at my feet.  On the opposite edge of the river was the St. Marks waterfront just about one hundred feet away.  It was Sunday afternoon and both “Posies” and “Riverside” restaurants had bands and large crowds on their decks enjoying the warm sunshine.  After a few minutes, I saw a small boat coming up river and hailed him over for a ride over to the docks.  I thanked the man and his wife for the ride and started to make my way off the dock as two nice looking woman passed (later I found that it was Nancy and her sister).  They told me how to find the Shell Island Marina and Motel.  It was a mile or two walk and there on a bench just outside the marina door was Ruthy, the lady I had spoken with on the phone to make the reservation.  Being tired from the long hike, I sat down and helped her watch Al, her husband, wash a good looking pick-up truck.  Al told me about this guy that was even older and more scary looking than I who had hiked through about two years before.  I asked if he might have been Eb Eberhart and Al could not believe I knew who he was telling me about.  Eb, “Nimblewill Nomad”, is well known among long distance hikers and the hike I am doing is similar to the one Eb did two years ago.  Eb gave me some suggestions before I started.

Monday  2/21/00  20 miles/938 total.  58 trail days.  St. Marks to 2 miles west of Medart on SR 319.  Another cool morning (34 degrees) and an early start.  The trail north out of St. Marks is a bicycle path on an old railroad grade.  The Florida Trail turns west after a couple of miles but, I’m told, the bike path continues north to Tallahassee.  The afternoon was warm and sunny.  It was a great spring day in a beautiful forest with a very well maintained and well blazed trail.  Several miles after crossing the last road of any kind, I emerged from a thick swampy area into a large clearing with knee high palmetto.  There, about 25 feet away were two young jay birds standing, entwined, in their natural, buff, plumage.  The bright capped male was out shown by the simple but elegant beauty of the female.  We were all surprised; I gave a little salute with my hiking stick, turned away and followed the trail across the clearing.  Before disappearing into the trees, I looked back and tipped my hat (more details will cost you a beer).

     Roger Rose arrived right on schedule.  He took me back to J. R.’s Aucilla River Store.  We thanked J.R. and I drove the RV following Roger back west.  We decided to go to St. Marks to eat and ended up at the Riverside restaurant.  At the door, I saw the lady (Nancy) who had given me directions the day before.  After eating, Roger and I talked with Nancy and Rico, who apparently owns “Riverside”.  Rico said he thought it would be ok to leave the RV in the town parking lot for the night.  We did.

Tuesday  2/22/00  20 miles/958 total.   59 trail days.  2 miles west of Medart on SR 319 to East side of Bradwell Bay.  We drove the RV from St. Marks to FR 356, about 1 mile west of Medart and parked on an unused side road near the trail.  Roger then dropped me at the point on SR 319 that I had hiked to yesterday.  He then set off to find the other end of today’s hike and he would then walk toward me.  It was a long way to drive around and the forest road network here is like a maze.  Some of the roads and bridges are not named correctly on some of our maps.  Since we are moving cross country at about 20 miles each day, many of the local folks don’t know about the backroads in our  destination area.  But, Roger kept at it and found the right place.  He came hiking down the trail along the beautiful Sopchoppy River.  We had lunch on a little sand beach and then we each continued on our way.  The Sopchoppy River is only about 30 feet wide with steep banks and has dark clear water flowing slowly over a white sand bottom. 

     The past few weeks, we have passed through a few areas infested with ticks; small ones about the size of the head of a pin.  Yesterday, I broke the tick count record with nine.  However, today was special; 39 by noon and a total of 47 for the day (assuming that I found them all).  Almost all of them first get on boots and socks, then climb upward.  Since I hike in shorts, I can usually feel them on my lower legs and interrupt their northward migration.  When in infested areas (like today) it also helps to stop every few minutes for a visual check.

     Today I planned to hike an additional 6 mile loop on the edge of Bradwell Bay Wilderness in order to shorten tomorrow’s hike across the wilderness area.  I was making good time the first couple of miles into this six mile loop.  Then the trail entered an area that had been burned; the blazes were hard to find, Titi and other brush had blown down and blocked the trail for nearly 3 miles.  After finishing this portion of the trail, I followed a blue blazed connector trail back to Roger’s van.  Tomorrow I will hike back in on the connector trail to start across Bradwell Bay.

Wednesday  2/23/00   15 miles/973 total.   60 trail days.  East side of Bradwell Bay to Porter Lake Bridge on FH 13.  I drove Roger’s van to my starting point, a blue blazed connector trail off of FR 329.  Blue blazes are used for connector trails, side trails, loops and other trails which are maintained by the Florida Trail Association.  Roger drove the RV to a primitive campground by Porter Lake Bridge, my finish point for the day.  He then started hiking toward me and would end at the van and drive it to our new campsite by Porter Lake Bridge. 

     I knew the connector trail was a little over one half mile long because I hiked out on it at the end of yesterday’s hike.  As with most thru-hikers, I do not count the distance for such connector trails as part of the daily mileage.  Once on the main trail, orange blazes, I was headed west into the Bradwell Bay Wilderness.  This area is named for a man who was lost in the area for several days.  It is a large (557,000 acres) low area that is covered with water and thick vegetation.  Fortunately for me, the water level is about a foot lower than normal and two feet lower than it is sometimes.  The central part of the swamp has some really large trees up to 400 years old: pine, cypress, blackgum, magnolia and others.  Nearly all of Bradwell Bay, including the big tree swamp area, is covered with titi thickets which can be difficult to negotiate.  A few places I saw the endangered pitcher plant.  For the most part the water was not more than knee deep.  However, a few holes were waist deep.  It took me about four hours to cross.  I took off my boots to let them dry while I ate lunch.  The trail from Bradwell Bay to our campsite was considerably drier.  Tick count for the day = 4.

Thursday  2/24/00   20 miles/993 total.  61 trail days.  Porter Lake Bridge on FH 13 to 1 miles west of Vilas.  Great morning; cool, with sun coming up.  Good to be in the woods on such a day.  Trail goes through pine (slash, long leaf, loblolly) and palmetto flatwoods.  More and more wiregrass as we move north and west.  Ever since the Suwannee River there has usually been some short bamboo along the river banks. 

     Talked with Forest Ranger Cloyce Rankin.  He told me the wildfire that had burned Bradwell Bay was in the 80’s and really damaged the area.

     In the afternoon the burned areas had obliterated many of the blazes,  sometimes due to charred bark and sometimes the blazed tree had fallen.  Fire damage causes some trees to fall years after being burned.  At one point I could not locate the trail and had to bushwack on a compass heading for several miles when I stumbled onto the marked trail again.  The downed titi make for slow going.  I did see some pitcher plants, so it wasn’t a total waste of time.

     About two miles from the point that I was to meet Roger, I lost the trail in another burned area.  This time I was boxed in by swamp and titi thickets, so I backtracked onto a woods road that would take me to where Roger was waiting.  Fortunately, he drove out to look around and picked me up along the road.  I marked that point and will start there in the morning.  Tick count = 5.

Friday  2/25/00   14 miles/1007 total.  62 trail days.  1 mile west of Vilas to CR 12 (NW# corner of Apalachicola National Forest.  Roger and I planned to move the RV forward to Bristol this morning.  Betty is returning in the afternoon and I wanted to be moved and set up before we started hiking.  As I was about to pull out, I could not get the RV out of park.  After a clever bit of logical deduction Roger decided it had to be a blown fuse.  He was right and, after an hours delay, we made the move to Bristol.

     The hike was through some burned pine and palmetto flatwoods.  The last few miles before departing Apalachicola National Forest were through a flat area with pine and wiregrass.  There were a lot of dried pitcher plant stalks from last season.  Roger was waiting for me.  Betty arrived shortly after Roger and I returned.

      We all went to a seafood buffet to celebrate passing the 1000 mile point. Congratulations Swampeagle!!  It was fitting that both Betty and Roger were there since they both worked hard to help me make it.  Tick count = 5.

Saturday  2/26/00   28 miles/1035 total.  63 trail days.  CR 12 at NW corner of Apalachicola NF to Shelton’s Corner on SR 73.  Roger and I did the 10 mile road walk to Bristol.  I continued on and Roger headed back to Naples.  The whole day was on rural roads.  There was little traffic and the miles went fast (well, relatively fast). 

     This morning I wore the new “All Terrain”, New Balance “803” running shoes that Betty bought in Naples at the new “Shoes That Fit” store.  I had previously purchased a pair of New Balance “961” waterproof walking shoes that Matt, the store manager, had recommended.  Prior to that, I was wearing some Adidas running shoes for the road walks but having some foot problems.  I was happy with the NB “961” walking shoes and Roger liked his “All Terrain” running shoes, so Betty got herself a pair of “961s” and the “All Terrains” for me.  I like having enough different types of foot gear to rotate from day to day depending on the conditions.  I use the waterproof NB 961’s for roadwalks, especially when it is raining or dew is still on the grass.  Also, I use them for easy to moderate trail hiking.  When the trail is a little rougher or muddy, I usually wear Vasque “sundowner” hiking boots.  And, if I know water will be over my boot tops, I bring a pair of Army boots out of retirement.  I have found that with most new boots it is best to discard the insoles and replace them with better, more supportive ones that provide more cushioning.  Matt had recommended some good insoles that are almost like orthotics.  As a general rule, I like New Balance shoes because they come in varying widths and seem to hold up better in tough conditions.

     Tick count = 0.

Sunday  2/27/00   12 miles/1047 total.   64 trail days.  Shelton’s Corner to CR 167.  We moved the RV to the start point at Shelton’s corner.  Even though the crossroads of SR 73 and CR 274 looks pretty much deserted except for a convenience store/gas pump, there is a Shelton business on each of the four corners, plus a couple on the side: a welding shop, a realty, a hardware and farm supply store, a rummage store, and a truck transfer yard in addition to Mama Shelton’s convenience store.  With all the unused open space, we thought we could probably park the RV overnight.  As soon as I stepped out to look around, a pick-up truck with three guys pulled in and unlocked a back gate to the welding shop.  They were icing down a cooler and Greg Shelton said we could park over by the fence where Mama could “keep an eye on things”.  It started raining as I unhooked the Honda.  Soon we were in the middle of a thunderstorm.

     When the storm let up, I started hiking west on CR 274.  Another road walk!  The past few days have been warm with lots of sunshine and spring is popping out everyplace.  Little wild flowers are in bloom, many trees and shrubs are in full blossom and butterflies and grasshoppers are scurrying about.  A few miles down the road a small pick-up passed me then turned around and came back.  He had a Florida Trail plate on the front bumper and a sticker on the back glass.  It was Sidney McDonald, the trail section leader for this area.  We chatted for several minutes and he told me that a new portion of the trail along the Econfina River had just been completed.  He gave me some directions to intercept the completed portion.  I terminated the day’s hike about 5 miles early so that I could take a direct route to the new trail along the Econfina.  When Betty picked me up we went to recon the route.  I found the Econfina River and some short trails, but none with FT markings.  On the drive back to Shelton’s Corner, we drove down to Mossy Pond to find Sidney McDonald’s home.  We didn’t know exactly where he lived, so we were looking for his pick-up truck.  We spotted a mailbox with “Falcon McDonald” on the side.  Close enough.   We went down the lane to a nice house with a large second floor deck, across the driveway, which made a carport.  No one was home.  Later in the evening I tried calling a phone number I had for Sidney.  A recording said it was the Falcon McDonald’s.  Still no details on the new trail.  I would really like to hike the Econfina portion, but do not want to walk four miles to get there and not find a trail, then walk four miles back to continue on my way.  I’ll try calling again in the morning.

Tick count = 0 (no more counting).

Monday  2/28/00  22 miles/1069 total.  65 trail days.  CR 167 & CR 274 to 4.5 miles west of Econfina Bridge on SR 20.    We moved the RV from Shelton’s Corner to a BP Truck Stop on US 231 near Fountain.  While at the Truck Stop, I called Sidney McDonald to get better directions to the new trail along Econfina Creek.  He told me that the trail was not yet constructed as far north as I searched for it yesterday.  So today I hiked two additional miles south then about four miles west on Owenwood Road and 3/4 miles north, Voila!  The new orange blazes put on Econfina Creek head south.  What a great trail!!  It hugs the east bank of the twisting Econfina going up and down the ravines draining into the creek.  The forest here is wonderful; a mix of pine (sand, loblolly and longleaf) and hardwood (live oak, pin oak, southern white oak, turkey oak, sweetbay, beech, gum and even poplar).  The creek is fairly swift for a stream in Florida and it is clear.  The trail is kept narrow and winds with the creek; good feeling just to be part of it.  At two points along this new trail, a tornado had broken and uprooted dozens of trees, mostly pine, across the pathway.  After a few miles, the trail crossed a small bridge to the west bank.  Then the trail turned west away from the creek and through a large tree farm.  Betty met me just after I came out of the woods on to SR 20.  We picked up the RV and leaped forward to DeFuniak Springs.  This is a couple of days farther ahead than we usually move, but we had a number of things to catch up on (wash, photo developing, grocery shopping, posting this journal on an internet phone line, etc).  We stopped in a Wal Mart parking lot for the night, left the RV and drove back to a Mexican Restaurant, La Bamba.  It was superb, of course, after 22 miles in the boonies, I’m pretty easy to please.  The Margaritas came in a fish bowl size glass and were pretty good (Nancy, eat your heart out).  Our young waitress, Mary, had moved here with her husband from Jacksonville to be near his family.  We reinstated the triple-tip policy.  Actually, she deserved it, we got there late and were the last to leave, but she never rushed us and was very good natured. 

Tuesday  2/29/00  26 miles/1095 total.  66 trail days.  4.5 miles east of Econfina Bridge on SR 20 to Dismal Creek on SR 20.   On the way to the start, about a half hour before dawn , we saw three deer grazing on the shoulder of the road. 

     I started this road hike early to get it behind me as soon as possible.  After a bunch of road miles, I turned south to intercept the existing trail route.  The new route that Sidney directed through is not yet connected to the existing trail.  The trail here goes through Moore’s Pasture, a large Wildlife Management Area.  The word pasture is a bit of a misnomer; it is mostly rolling tree farm with primarily pine forest in all states of growth from clearcut to mature.  Progress seems similar to tacking into the wind when sailing.  The trail is moving generally west, but I seem to be going north and south a lot in order to go west.  This is just one of the reasons why getting from Key West to Pensacola is over 1200 trail miles, but only 826 miles on highways.  As a seagull flies it is closer to 560 miles.  Don’t mind doubling my pleasure, but I really need to get on to Springer Mountain, GA and start up the Appalachian Trail.  The last half of March seems to be the most common time to start the AT.  Some hikers, “EZ Duz  It” for instance, even start in February.

     The trail through Moore’s Pasture is very well marked, bright new orange blazes and the double blazed turn points cannot be missed.  After going north, we turned west at the edge of Botheration Creek Swamp.  Just east of Ebro the trail turns south again for a six mile turn through Pine Log State Forest.  This is a diverse forest with lots of hardwoods; saw some black cherry and hickory in addition to the usual fare.  Pine Log is Florida’s first state forest, established in 1936.  Then it is back on SR 20 moving west.  Betty picked me up at Dismal Creek.

Tuesday 12/28/99  Chuck was dropped off at the beginning of the Florida Trail by our son-in-law, EJ.  The actual sanctioned start is at Oasis Ranger Station on Hwy 41, however, most folks consider the trailhead on Loop Road to be the start.  It’s an eight mile hike through swamp from the Loop Road trailhead to Oasis Ranger Station.  Chuck completed this in about five hours, through knee deep water nearly the whole way, then headed back to Naples.  We all (Chuck and I, Helen (Chuck’s mom), Susan (our daughter), EJ (son-in-law), Brendan, Bobby and Mikey(grandsons), Mae (Chuck’s sister) and RD (our nephew) went out and celebrated Chuck’s birthday.  HAPPY BIRTHDAY!!

IT’S THE NEW YEAR!

Sunday 1/2/00  Mae (Chuck’s sister) and I took Chuck out to Oasis Ranger Station to begin his trek northward.  He began from there about 9 AM.  Mae and I (Betty) decided to hike for a while with Chuck.  The weather was warm and the sun shining.  A great day to begin the trek.  After we had gone about 1/2 mile, we met two hikers who were camped near the back of the airfield.  They introduced themselves as Casey and Sarah.  They also are planning to thru-hike the Florida Trail, but have decided to go back and do the Loop Road to Oasis before continuing north.  We soon bid Chuck adieu (the water infringing on our trail) and made our way back to the car.

Sunday 1/2/00 (Chuck’s account)   After wading north through calf deep water for about an hour, I spotted a doe and fawn about 50 yards away in a small clearing.  We just watched each other for nearly five minutes before they wandered off into the pine and palmetto.  At about 11AM, I met a young German couple as they were returning to Oasis Ranger Station.  They had attempted to hike through to Alligator Alley but had lost the trail many times and, after three days, decided to retrace their route back out of the area.  Matise had been going to school in Alabama and Agnes came from Germany to visit him for 10 days.  By some bit of convoluted reasoning he thought she might be impressed by wading around in the Big Cypress Swamp for a few days.  They were in great spirits and we stood there for nearly an hour talking about hiking in Germany and the United States.  Betty and I had hiked in many of the same areas of Germany that Matise and Agnes hiked recently.  The fact that Betty and I camped in the Bavarian Alps, Black Forest and Tanus Mountains 10 years before these two Deutschlanders were born did not deter our enthusiastic conversation.  As we parted, Matise said he planned to make up for the “lost trail hike” by treating Agnes to a few days of camping at Dry Tortugas.  I told him that Fort Jefferson was the only thing there and that for years it had been sort of an “exile prison” due to its remoteness.  However, they did not seem to hear my suggestions that Key West might hold more excitement for their last few days in America. Youth is wonderful!

The Florida Trail (FT) is marked with orange blazes of paint about the size of a dollar bill.  In areas where there is not a clear trail, the blazes are visible from one to the next.  Over the years the hot Florida sun, the rain and humidity take their toll on these marks.  What starts out being bright vivid blazes slowly become dull, nearly brown spots about the size of a quarter, if visible at all.  Peeling bark, algae and rapid growing vegetation help hide the trail and return it to a natural state.  The result is that the trail must be trimmed and reblazed periodically or it will gradually disappear.  With over 1300 miles of trails to maintain, the volunteers of the Florida Trail Association have a monumental task.  It is normal on most trails that the areas most distant from trailheads get the least attention.  The Section Leader for this portion of the FT, Nina Depuy, has a real challenge getting enough volunteers to maintain the center part of this 33 mile swamp crossing.  Volunteers have to spend one day hiking in, set up camp, work, then hike another day to get out; not feasible for weekend volunteers.  Nina is coordinating with the Big Cypress Ranger Station to have the work crews lifted in and out by helicopter.

After I passed Seven Mile Camp, the need for more trail maintenance became more obvious.  Often it would take a few seconds to scan the area ahead for blazes, sometimes tracks of previous hikers, some months ago, or other clues would lead to the next blaze.  It was helpful to constantly be aware of the compass heading the blazes were following, then continue on that heading when marks were not evident and hope to pick them up a little later.  At one point, I could find no sign of blazes for over an hour, but after a mile or two, a welcome little orange patch showed up on a little pond cypress and I was back “on trail”.   Having been in water nearly all day, I was hoping to find a pine and palmetto hammock high enough to have a dry camp for the night.  The area near ten mile camp was a few inches higher and dry, but it was covered with very thick vegetation and looked as if it would be thick with mosquitoes when the sun went down.  About 4 PM, I found a dry open area and claimed it as home for the night.

Monday 1/3/00  Slept well, had a slice of fruitcake, and was ready for the middle day of this three day crossing of the Big Cypress swamp.  By mid-morning, I came to an area that had been burned recently.  Nina had cautioned me about the lack of any blazes in this scorched area.  She was right!    Keeping the same bearing got me through the burned area in less than an hour but no blazes were to be found on the far side.  After a fruitless search, I headed for a campsite with a known GPS location.  Nina had provided me with several GPS landmarks a few days earlier.   About 4 PM, I spotted some faded orange tape marking the trail and took the next dry area to make camp.  The timing worked out really well.  It takes about two hours to set up camp, purify some water, cook dinner and wash.  This is only important if you do not want to do battle with the mosquito hordes.  Their dinner bell cannot be heard but at this time of the year it rings at about 6 PM and the prudent camper is zipping up the screen on the tent by then.

Tuesday 1/4/00   Another pleasant night, it is good to be sleeping in the woods again.  The night sounds, starlit sky and cool night air bring back senses that have been dormant too long.  Another slice of fruitcake, pack up the tent, still wet with dew and head north.  So far I had been making about 10 miles per day and I was now about 13 trail miles south of Alligator Alley.  Today would be a longer hike but, Betty would be meeting me and I would not have to be concerned with setting up camp before dark.  It was a hot morning due to a bright sun.  Wading through the foot deep water kept my feet cool but I was drinking a lot of water.  I was carrying four quart water bottles.  Last evening I filled them all and used one for cooking and drinking with supper and half of one during the night.  Before noon, I finished that one and the remaining two.  While passing a cypress head, I found a dry log to tie my pack to and dug out my little PUR Hiker water filter.  Not wanting to stir up the debris on the bottom, I eased into the cypress head, dropped the filter’s inlet tube into a clear spot and pumped until all four bottles were full

 .  The taste and smell of iodine fade after a few minutes and some pouring from bottle to bottle.  Back on the trail, I was moving at a good pace with old blazes along a relatively dry woods road (tracks made by swamp buggies, mostly during hunting season).  This must have been too good to be true, the blazed trail disappeared, the buggy tracks were still moving NW but now in about two feet of water and with no more blazes.  A quick search produced the same results as yesterday, nothing.  Assuming that the buggy tracks would lead to Alligator Alley, I followed them until the mud ruts under two feet of water were no longer the best place to walk.  After taking a GPS fix on Mile Marker 63 on Alligator Alley, the location I was to meet Betty, I struck out on a direct course.  Actually, mostly direct.  As I sighted cypress heads, I would alter course to bypass them.  By about 4 PM the sky clouded and then it started pouring rain.  This area, a few miles south of the Alley, is known as a wet area and I thought wading through two feet of ground water was enough but now it was coming from topside also.  After a short stop to pull a rain cover over my pack, I continued northward.  Even though I had a rain suit, it seemed crazy to put it on since the walking took enough effort to keep sweat rolling and the temperature was warm, probably mid 70’s.  Even when visibility was great, I had not seen a blaze for hours.   In the rain visibility was only a few feet but what should appear?  A bright, fresh orange blaze.  This part of the trail had been reblazed only a week or two earlier and was quite easy to follow, even in the rain.  Knowing that I was only about three miles from the Alley and back “on trail”, I felt certain that I would get there prior to dark  The pace picked up.  And, a little before 6 PM, there ahead was the little green Honda with Betty patiently waiting for my arrival as she has so many other times and places.

From Betty’s notes:  Chuck would be coming into mile marker 63 on Alligator Alley (I-75) and this is where I would pick him up at 5:00 PM,1/4/00.  The plan was to pick him up, he would return with me to Naples, wash clothes (and they did need washing) and reprovision.  As it was, he had hiked this 33 mile stretch through the Big Cypress Swamp in water from 1 foot to knee deep most of the time and had a lot of drying out to do.  He had also encountered rain.  I had called for and received the permission he needed to cross the Indian reservation on 1/5/00.  He had many calls the evening we got home from people who had already hiked the trail and were comparing notes and people who were planning to hike the trail.  It’s neat when everyone gets excited about your trip.

  Wednesday 1/5/00  About noon, Chuck, Roger and I headed back out to mile marker 63.  Roger had called yesterday and was ready to rejoin the hike.  I dropped them off where Chuck had finished yesterday and they began their trek north.  They would be hiking down an old overgrown road grade with lots of alligators in the old ditch by the trail and eventually come to the Indian Reservation where they planned to stay in the campground and eat in the restaurant.  Chuck had been told that it was about a 4 hour hike, however, it turned out to be more like six hours.  From Chuck’s notes:  We got off to a late start due to my repacking, washing gear and attending to some ROCCC details plus talking with Joan Hobson and John Lanier about expected trail conditions.  Roger and I hiked under Alligator Alley and a few hundred yards east to the Trail Head.  The ditch/canal crossing we expected was only a few inches deep so we could cross without getting wet feet.  Roger and I started north on the Florida Trail (Nobles Road).  We signed the trail register and followed the well marked Florida Trail (FT).  This old roadway is a beautiful hiking path (dry, soft, partially overgrown).  We saw a few gators, heard many splash into the water.  We saw lots of turtles, blue herons, and white ibis.  After a couple hours, we saw signs reporting that we were  entering the Indian Reservation.  About 6PM, we intersected a major dirt road, and turned right.  We had hoped this was Billie’s Swamp Safari where we planned to get a Chickee for the night – NOT!  Roger’s feet had been hurting for a couple of hours, partly because this was the first time he had carried the full pack any distance.  Darkness overtook us as we continued along the wide, dusty dirt road used by some BIG trucks.  I asked an Indian farmer “how far to the restaurant”?  He said “Oh, just right there”, as he pointed down the road.  When I pinned him down, he said, “about 1/4 miles”.  A mile later we came to the restaurant sign, turned left and went another 1/4 mile.  We arrived at the restaurant at about 7:30 PM having completed about 14 miles for the day.  The restaurant was part of the Billie Swamp Safari operation.  We placed our backpacks on the front porch, against a restaurant window.  Inside we took a  table next to the window.  After ordering burgers and fries, I inquired about a Chickee but was told the Gift Shop handled that and it was closed for the night.  Roger asked about other places and was told there was a Campground just 4 miles down the road.  I asked the waitress to check and see if anyone could get us into the Chickee’s.  Roger said he was sleeping in the restaurant before he would hike 4 more miles.  After eating, the waitress said she would walk over to Ed’s house.  About 15 minutes later Ed came in, introduced himself and lead me to our Chickee.  Because there was no power he had a friend move a pick-up to shine its lights on the door so he could work the combination.    I went back, got Roger and our packs.  We fired up a kerosene lantern, showered and sacked out.  Roger said he thought it best that he not hike on his blistered feet for a few days.  He would call Carol in the morning and ask her to pick him up.  Completed 14 miles today.

 Thursday 1/6/00  Betty’s note:  Spoke with Chuck in the morning, when he told me about Roger and Carol’s plan and again that evening (cell phone’s are great inventions).  He was doing fine and is continuing his trek.  The next place that we can meet him will be up near Clewiston.  The area where he had camped for the night was an intersection of five canals all spreading out like a star.  He said he had just finished eating his meal and was cleaning up his dishes when he noticed a couple mosquitos.  By the time he finished putting his dishes away and brushing his teeth, there were more and he was glad to be heading into the tent.  When he was talking to me he said the outside of the screen on his tent was covered with the little devils.  Just think what the early pioneers and settlers contended with when they were without these modern conveniences that we take for granted.  He had hiked about 15 miles today, with his total mileage being 253 miles.

  Chuck’s entry:  I hiked through Seminole Indian Reservation.  Hiked past the area where the Phish Concert with nearly 100,000 people had been 5 days earlier.  Had lunch with some of the young “Phish-Heads” who were on the clean-up crew, they were living in tents.  John “Dude” and others told many Phish stories.  They found many valuable items left behind.  Wallets ($1600, $800, $600, etc), boom boxes, CD’s, and even a couple cars.  One guy wears only the clothes he finds left behind (after washing) and has a different outfit every day.

    I hiked for several miles on Snake Road, then turned North through some ranch land and camped when I reached L-3 canal (several canals converge here).  As I arrived, workers from US Sugar Co. were getting ready to quit work and head home in their 4-wheel drive pick-up.  Don and Brian gave me many helpful tips about the trail ahead.  While talking we saw a bobcat just on the opposite side of a canal.  Before leaving they let me top off all my water bottles.  I camped on the canal bank.

   Friday 1/7/00   Hiked on the L-3 canal bank – saw many gators.  Mid afternoon, passed two houses in the middle of no place.  Stopped to ask for water.  Don and Sheila Evans were very friendly.  While Don (resident supervisor with Florida Crystals, Sugar Co.) and I talked, Sheila took my water bottles inside to fill with bottled water.  Don was a military brat, his dad retired 10 years ago as 1SGT in the Army.  I camped on the L-2 canal bank having completed 17 miles.

Saturday 1/8/00 Continued on L-2 canal, Sugar cane on one side and ranches or orange groves on the other side.  At CR 835, called US Sugar for permission to cross their land.  NO WAY!   Hiked the extra five miles around on CR 835 into Clewiston. I had completed 23 miles today.   Met Bill Quayle, we ate at “Chinese Lantern” (all you can eat-buffet with shrimp).  GREAT!  Bill drove back to Loxahatchee.  I stayed the night in the Marina Motel.  Betty’s note:   Chuck called from the Rolin-Martin Marina Motel.  He’s planning to have a shower, soft bed and a hearty meal.  Bill Quayle did call him and met him for dinner.  They are old high school buddies and I know they  had  a great time.  Chuck left information for Roger on meeting him tomorrow.  Roger will drive over in the morning.

Sunday 1/09/00   Roger arrived at about 8:30 AM.  We “reverse slack-packed” on the top of the dike on the west side of Lake Okeechobee.   Betty’s note: They have devised a new strategy.  Chuck starts at the spot where they left off.  Roger drives ahead, the appointed number of miles- usually about 16, and then he starts walking the trail backwards.  He and Chuck meet about mid-way, have lunch and Roger tells Chuck where the van is parked and they each continue on.  When Chuck reaches the van he drives back and picks up Roger.  If Roger is having any trouble with his feet he can stop at any point and wait for the van to get there.  Ingenious, don’t you think?  They are calling it reverse slack packing.  Chuck’s entry: We hiked to Moore Haven, about 14 miles.  Drove back to “Uncle Joe’s Fish Camp” to camp.  Helped Roger use his new Whisper Light camp stove.  Rained a little about 9PM.

Monday 1/10/00  Chuck called briefly to let me know that they had ended yesterday near Moore Haven and that Roger’s feet are doing fine at this point.   Chuck was to call later this evening and we would work out the details for Frank (a friend of ours who is blind) to meet him on the trail tomorrow and hike with him.  Frank has hiked with Chuck on several occasions and they were both looking forward to this, however, Frank’s father had what they think was a stroke this morning and so we’re going to do this another time.  I relayed that information to Chuck. Chuck’s entry:  Continued on Lake “O” dike to near Lakeport.  Roger and I (each at different ends) got a little confused when SR 78? crossed the dike to the “lake side”.  We both correctly chose to hike along the road but each left a note for the other explaining what we had done.  It was good to see Roger hiking toward me along the highway.  We had lunch together and Roger decided to turn around and hike north with me.  As the highway crossed back over the dike we saw the Aruba Motel and a convenience store.  Roger elected to cool his heels under a palm tree and I hiked on to get the van.  When I picked him up, we decided to stay in the Aruba Motel.  As we were checking in, we met Betty Loomis, a fellow FT (Florida Trail) member.  She had heard we were coming through soon.  Betty will hike a few days with Joan Hobson as she through-hikes by this area in about two weeks.  Completed 14 miles today.    

Tuesday 1/11/00  Hiked 12 miles to Buckhead Ridge and then we drove back to Naples.  Betty’s note:  Chuck came back to Naples for a board meeting with the ROCCC.  He will have his final board meeting on Wed. night with a Dinner meeting and installation of new board members on Friday evening.  Chuck will no longer be a board member.  Due to the commitment to this hike we will miss the dinner meetings and fellowship with our friends for the next 10 months or so.  He plans to be out on the trail again on Saturday 1/15/00.

Sunday 1/16/00  Chuck and Roger left this morning to head back out to the trail.  They had intended to leave yesterday, but there were a number of things that needed to be completed here, before the return to the trail.  They took the RV with them and also Roger’s van.  They will work out a shuttle system similar to before.  More on that as I hear from them.

Monday 1/17/00  14 miles/ 367 total, 24 trail days.  Spoke with Chuck this afternoon.  He and Roger were doing fine, they were in the process of driving through an RV park looking for a site.  He said the night before they had dry camped (without hookups) in a Wal-Mart parking lot.  Roger  called Carol from that Wal-Mart. Chuck’s note: Hiked up CR599 then on trail through ranchland.  Cows everyplace.  Came to south end of Lofton Rd, hiked it north to US98 (3 mi. east of Bassinger).  Roger and I missed each other when crossing Yates Swamp – I was “on trail”.  We thought the distance would be 17 miles but it was only about 14.  Saw and heard Sandhill Cranes.  Moved the RV to Neiberts Fishing Resort about 3 miles west of Lorida on US98.  Had macaroni & cheese, baked beans and salad.

Tuesday 1/18/00  25 miles/392 total, 25 trail days.   US98 (3 miles east of Bassinger to Boat Ramp at the north end of Hammock Bluff Road.  Roger dropped me off at the north end of Lofton Rd. at 8:45.  I hiked along US98 through Bassinger, then Ft. Bassinger (Seminole Wars), a total of 13 1/2 miles.  I saw about 40 Sandhill Cranes.  At Hickory Hammock the Florida Trail turned north off of US98 and became a real trail again.  A beautiful area, the trail winds through huge Live Oak trees, some with limbs covered with Spanish Moss dragging the ground.  Saw deer, wild hogs (20), and armadillo.  In the middle of the Hammock was a FT campsite and trail register.  I signed in and left a note for Joan Hobson who is probably about a week behind us.  The Hammock was about 4 miles across, on the north edge was an abandoned farm house and barn.  I lost the trail in thick high ceasar weed that had overgrown the area.  About a half mile beyond the old farmstead, I got back on the trail.  This part was about 4 miles west across ranch land with lots of cattle.  Then north about 4 miles on Bluff Hammock Rd, I asked a Spanish speaking family for water – it was good.  Arrived at the van at 6:45pm.  After a shower we had dinner at Annie’s.

Wednesday 1/19/00 25 miles/417 total.  North end of Hammock Bluff Rd. to River Ranch Trail Head.  Got off to a late start due to map deliberations, calling Avon Park AFB for permission to cross their bombing range, and prepare the RV to relocate.  About 9:30am Roger drove out in the RV for a 75 mile drive around Sebring and Avon Park and then down the trail head near River Ranch.  I left at the same time to drive the van to the end of Hammock Bluff Rd. and hike north.  Somehow I could not locate the trail.  I had hiked in after dark the night before.  Roger said he had seen the trailhead marks when he parked the van the day prior.  After looking for a few minutes, I decided it must be through a gate at the parking area.  An hour’s worth of false trails in thick underbrush and I returned to the van.  As I drove back down the road I saw the trail about a quarter mile away just past a creek.  It used to be right where  I was looking but was relocated because the Kissimmee River is being rerouted.  Anyway, I did not start hiking until 11AM.  After hiking about 3 miles I entered Avon Park AFB.  Just across the fence they have a bulletin board and box to register.  The hike across the AFB is about 12 miles.  Great trail, like Hickory Hammock, with large Live Oak trees, even a few orange trees.  I saw 4 deer, 5 wild turkeys, and bunches of armadillos.  A few miles into the AFB is the site of old Fort Kissimmee.  In the 1800s and early 1900s there was a small community with a church, school, etc.  All that remains is the cemetery.  Several miles after crossing the northern boundary of the AFB, the trail joined a ranch road which went on forever (about 8 miles) and it was nearly dark.  Fortunately, I was able to follow the Shell Ranch Rd. in the dark.  Should have had a nearly full moon, but it was clouded over.  I also got rained on for about a half hour.  Arrived at the RV at about 8PM.  Roger chose not to hike south because it was about 12:30pm before he got the RV to the trailhead. Good decision!!

Thursday 1/20/00  8 miles/425 total.  River Ranch Trailhead to Three Lakes Recreation Area access road on US60.  We were up early to get Roger off on the 25 miles southbound through Avon Park AFB that I did yesterday.  He departed at 7:30am in order to complete well before dark.  He had caught a ride with a water management vehicle the day before and hoped to ride a few miles again today.  After 2 days of 25 miles each, I planned a short hike and used the morning to catch up on map work and planning.  I called the Florida Trail office to get permission to hike across Deseret Ranch in about 3 days.  Diane called them and after several calls back and forth, it was determined that we could not cross on Saturday, Sunday or Monday, as requested, but must wait until after Monday due to hunting season.  I told her we would review our plans and call her back in the morning.  I departed after lunch (11:30am), on my little hike.  We left the RV at the trailhead (north end of Avon Park AFB trail) and I hiked past River Ranch Resort.  The trail cut through the woods for about 3 miles and somehow I got off the trail and ended up in a knee deep slough called Potsbourgh Slough where I saw a short (about 4 feet) but very thick Cottonmouth  (Water moccasin).  I ended up going through about a mile of Caesar Weed burrs – What a mess!!!!  Eventually, I got on US60 and hiked the last 4 miles to the Three Lakes Recreation Area access road.  Just as I got there, Roger called to say he was in the van and on the way to pick me up (80 miles) and would see me in about 1 1/2 hours.  He arrived on schedule at about 5:30pm.  He said he did catch a ride with the same water management worker for about 4 or 5 miles.  We showered then went to the Kissimmee Restaurant and back to the RV.

Friday 1/21/00  17 miles/442 total.  US60 to SR523 through Three Lakes Recreation Area.  Got out of camp at about 7:45.  Roger drove the RV to the next stopping point on SR 523.  I drove to Oasis Fish Camp to use the public phone to call Diane at FTA.  Left a message telling her we would hike the roads to  avoid Deseret Ranch.  Interesting terrain on this section.  Some huge palmetto prairies with only low palmettos for miles all around.  In places the trail seemed to zig-zag a lot more than needed.  Saw a Crested Caracara.  Met a Forest Ranger toward the end, he was envious of the hike we are doing and said he couldn’t wait till he had the time to do something similar.  Now, here is a guy, about 35 years old, with a dream job, works outside with the forest and gets paid for it – and he can’t wait to be old and retired????  When I arrived at the RV, Roger was already there and had been for hours.  While hiking south some guys gave him a hair-raising ride through about 10 miles of woods roads and right to his van.  We went to eat at the Lake Monroe Fish House.  I had “All the Catfish I could eat”, hush puppies and homefries.

Saturday 1/22/00  18 miles/460 Three Lakes Rec Area Entrance to Holopaw, FL on US441.  Moved the RV and van just outside the Three Lakes Rec Area and both Roger and I hiked NE on the FT.  After about 6 miles we crossed under Florida’s Turnpike then through pine and palmetto on a well maintained trail.  Roger hikes back to get the van and drive about 30 miles around to pick me up.  Beautiful morning to hike, we had a light frost earlier and the sun was now warm – Great!!  After Roger went back, I continued a mile NE to US441.  At this point the trail enters Deseret Ranch which we cannot enter because they do not allow hikers during hunting season and this weekend is open to hunting – mostly Quail.  I hiked 11 miles along US441 to Holopaw.  Roger overtook me in the van about 1 1/2 miles south of Holopaw then went on to wait for me.  He then drove me back (another 30 miles) to get the RV.  Then we drove the vehicles back through Holopaw and on to the destination for tomorrow’s hike.  Roger will take me to the start point in the morning and then he will continue south to Naples.  He and Carol have house guests arriving.  We pulled the RV just off the road which goes through Deseret Ranch.  I hope we are on the Highway right of way since we don’t have permission to be on Deseret.  Actually,  I’m sure it’s OK; most of the folks in this very rural part of Florida are very friendly and easy to get along with.

Sunday 1/23/00  25 miles/486 total – 30 trail days  Roger packed up to return to Naples and dropped me off in Holopaw to start the day’s hike.  Got a cup of coffee at the corner gas station and started east on US192.  Twelve miles later, at the intersection with SR419, I stopped at a busy vegetable stand.  Bought a pepsi, a tomato and a banana to go with lunch and some roasted peanuts to shuck and eat while hiking.  Called Betty (before lunch) to coordinate our meeting the next day,  Roger had just arrived at the house with the dirty laundry I sent back with him,  when I called.  He also showed Betty where the RV was located and where I would be hiking.  After the call, I asked the lady who ran the stand if I could fill my water bottle, she said “Sure, there is a hose out back”.  She sent a young boy out to show me.  He turned on the water then started dragging the hose out of a turkey waterer.  After he dragged it through the turkey pen, I rinsed the end and filled my bottle.  I sat under a shady palm across the highway and had lunch, then started hiking north on SR419.  A couple miles up the road, I gulped down a big drink of water and couldn’t decide if it was the sulfur or the turkey smell that was so foul.  Thinking I might need more water than the extra quart bottle in my pack, I continued to carry the foul stuff.  About 8 miles up the road I knew I could get along without the turkey water so I dumped it out, rinsed the bottle and filled it with water from my pack.  TASTED GREAT!!  At the intersection with SR532, I turned right on 532 and hiked around the curve and to the RV where we had left it.  It took nearly 9 hours to hike the 26 miles (includes an hour for veggie stand and lunch).  The roads I have been on yesterday and today all run through Deseret  Ranch.  This huge ranch, about 500,000 acres, is owned by the Mormon Church.  Not only do they raise cattle, but they also sell hunting and fishing “rights”.  A local man said an annual hunting permit cost $3,000 and included no more than one deer, one hog, and one turkey.  A small game permit or a fishing permit are extra.  No wonder they don’t want hikers on the property during hunting season – we might interfere with their paying customers.

Monday 1/24/00  14 miles/495 total.  SR532, l mi. north of SR419 to Taylor Creek Rd, 1 mi. north of SR520.  It rained hard during the night.  Departed north on SR532 when the rain let  up to a drizzle.  I wore boots instead of running shoes to help keep my feet dry.  The spray from 18 wheelers was like a dirty “car wash”.  About 6 miles up the road, I turned left on SR520, then 7 miles to Taylor Creed Road.  I was about a mile up Taylor Creek Road having lunch when Betty and Frank drove up.  We went to get gas, had lunch, then back to move the RV up to an RV Park in Christmas, FL.  After 6 days of “dry camping” (that’s camping without hookups), we needed a dumpsite and refill on fresh water.  Frank took us out to dinner at the “5 & Diner” – the food was great with nostalgia thrown in.  It’s good to have Betty back “in charge” of the RV – Roger and I were just muddling through the best we could.  Betty’s note:  Do you think he knows who types this?  When Frank and I (Betty) were driving up yesterday, we came cross country – back roads.  It was a beautiful drive.  We experienced a lot of rain, but saw three bald eagles – one male and two females, and  wild turkeys.  On the way up, Frank was asking me about the lay-out of the RV and I explained the floor plan.  When we got to the RV he amazed us, once again, with his ability to incorporate that information as he entered the RV.  Frank began losing his sight when he was in his 40’s, he went to a school, on the east coast, designed to help people with sight impairments,  this is where he met Judy.  They were both taught many tips that have made them extremely self reliant.  At the time Frank and Judy met, she was totally without sight and he was just losing his sight.  Their situation has since been reversed.  They have both stood in each other’s shoes and are a great team.  Judy is a Social Worker at Naples Community Hospital (she also has the good fortune to have been a nurse).  I met Judy when I  worked at the hospital as a social worker.  It was my first medical social work position and Judy was always there when I had a question. We soon realized that not only did we enjoy each other’s company, but our husbands had many similar interests.  Frank is an avid lover of the outdoors and a voracious reader, as is Chuck.   After our meal at the “5 & Diner”,  we returned to the RV.   The evening had grown  very cold.  Since we don’t like to sleep with the propane furnace on, we also have a ceramic heater (electric) and turned it on to take the chill out of the air.  We all slept with a couple blankets.  Levi, who normally likes to sleep on top of the covers, decided it was cold enough to crawl under them.

Tuesday 1/25/00 When we got  up this morning we fired up the propane heater – it’s cold here, although, last night we talked with Judy and she said it was cold and windy in Naples, as well.  I drove Frank and Chuck down to the point  where we picked Chuck up yesterday.  They will hike to the RV.  We think it’s about 6-8 miles.  The RV park is right at the edge of the trail.   Meanwhile, Levi (that’s the schnauzer) and I are guarding the RV and transferring the journal to the computer.  These entries will then be updated on the web when I have a computer connection.  Frank has taken the trail name “Natty Bumbo” and will be referred to with that trail name.  He chose the name because he has spent time in the Adirondacks, which is the setting of “The Leatherstocking Tales” by James Fenimore Cooper,and he  identifies with  Natty Bumpo, the main character.

Chuck’s entry:  1/25/00  7miles/502 total  Trail days = 32.  Taylor Creek Rd to Christmas, FL.

Betty dropped “Natty Bumpo” and I off on Taylor Creek Rd.  We hiked up the road to the entrance of Tosohattchee Reserve.  We met Charlie Matthews, the Park Ranger, who gave us a very interesting briefing about the Reserve.  Frank’s note:  I was really impressed by the way we were welcomed by Charlie Matthews.  He went out of his way to take time to explain the importance of the Reserve and some of the important projects they had underway.  I felt the trail was very well maintained and easy to hike.  Chuck:  We then hiked through the Reserve on the Florida Trail.  As we rounded a bend in the trail, I spotted what I thought was a doe, well ahead of us.  As we slipped up the trail, we thought we had missed her, when she exploded from the palmettos jumping high with her white tail signaling her departure.  Just as she disappeared a fawn appeared and followed her. 

  ” Natty Bumpo” does a lot of walking at home and adapted to trail hiking very well.  By holding one end of my hiking stick and me with the other end, he could follow me rather easily.  As I stepped over logs or roots, I would call, “log” or “roots” and he stepped over them surprisingly well.  Betty:  They also crossed a log bridge over a creek with the method described above and did fine.  Chuck:   We took our lunch break in a sunny spot at about the 500 mile point in my hike from Key West.  After exiting the Tosohattchee Reserve, we were on back roads a while then crossed SR50 and hiked directly to our RV in the Christmas RV Park.  The trail runs right along the side of the RV Park. 

Wednesday 1/26/00   “Swamp Eagle” and “Natty Bumpo” left the RV at about 9:00am and are on the trail as this is being entered.  I will drive out and pick them up.  We will return to the RV and drive  and park it about 50 miles up the road.  Natty and I will then bring “Swamp Eagle” back to the point where he left off.  He will begin hiking toward the RV.  We will head for Naples.  Swamp E. will hike as far as Oveido, where he has made arrangements to stay at a boarding house and then the following day he will hike to the RV.  Friday he will hike north from the RV.  I will be returning on Friday and will pick him up, at the end of the day,  where Highway 19 and the FT intersect in the Ocala National Forest.  We have some friends in that area and hope to touch base with them and meet them for dinner.  Well, I’d better get on the road. 

     I picked Natty and Swamp E.  up at the predetermined spot.  It had taken them longer than they had anticipated to hike that section.  The trail was badly rutted, I believe by wild hogs, and they had about 7-8 bridges to cross.  Some of the bridges were not in very good repair.  In one case, they decided to go through the ditch, which was dry at the time, rather than risk the bridge.  In another case the bridge was trying to become perpendicular to the ground – easy to slid off.  These are notes I picked up from Natty on our way home, more to follow when I see Swamp E.’s notes.

Chuck: 1/26/00  23 mi/525 total,  33 Trail days.  Christmas RV Park to Oviedo, FL. 

“Natty Bumpo” and I hiked from the RV park a little after 8AM.  It had gotten a little chilly during the night, it was about 40 degrees as we started.  We hiked north through a pine and cabbage palm forest.  The trail had a lot of twists and turns and several bridges across streams and ditches.  Natty Bumpo negotiated all of them well.  Wild pigs had rooted a lot of the area, including the trail.  As we arrived on Wheeler Road we met Mike and Wade, equipment operators working on roads for the Department of Wildlife and Conservation.  They told us about several projects they had worked on in the area.  After we left them and were hiking west, we heard a lot of loud pig squealing just a hundred feet or so south of us.  Betty picked us up after about a 4 mile hike.  We returned to relocate the RV to the Seminole State Forest on the Wekiva River.  Yesterday, we had made arrangements for a room, in a boarding house  belonging to Debbie and Marvin Foster, in Oveido.  For those of you who know Aunt Maude, the interior state of repair and housekeeping remind me of her place.  Oviedo is about 19 miles from where Natty and I finished.  This plan assumed that I would start hiking the last 19 miles in the early afternoon.

In reality, it did not work out as well as expected.  Long driving distances and heavy traffic delayed my start to nearly 4PM.  Betty and Frank wanted to get an early start back to Naples too, so this was late for all of us.  I hiked out on Wheeler Road to Hwy 420.  The trail followed 420 for an hour or hour and a half to a point where the trail cut off and down a “rail to trail”.  These “rails to trails” are trails that are built on converted railroad grades.  This particular trail was on an old Flagler railroad line.  I went down the rail to trail, even though the sun was starting to set.  I thought if I hurried I might make it through and still be able to see the marks before it got too dark.  I wanted to hike the rail to trail because Betty and I first joined the “rails to trails” program about 10 years ago.  We’ve hiked on some trails throughout the country that have been converted, but I don’t think we’ve hiked on any in Florida.  It’s what’s called a curvilinear trail, meaning it goes in a linear direction, but has little curves in it, so you don’t feel like you’re going in a straight line.  Through-hikers like that because it gets you from one place to another without a lot of zigzags.  I didn’t make it out before dark, but had a flashlight and map  with me.  Although the trail became harder to follow, and was no longer a converted trail, I managed to follow it.  It had been pretty well beaten down, and I was able to pick up some blazes along the way.  I came back out on Hwy 419, it was about 8PM.  Hiking after dark on the road deserves mention.  During the day,  if I’m hiking on a road, I hike on the side facing the traffic and wear my orange vest.  However, I found out quickly, that at night my orange vest doesn’t reflect and if you face the traffic you are blinded by the lights.  When the road side is narrow and you have to step off the road you can’t tell where you are stepping and a couple times I stepped into holes and one time nearly ran into a sign.  So, what I found to work better was hiking with the traffic.  You know when a car is coming and can see the headlights coming up behind you.  You can actually use their headlights to see as you step off the road and can get further off the road. Chuluota was a town I hiked through on this section.  I had been told there was a bed and breakfast in Chuluota.  I hiked a little out of my way to try to find it, thinking that if they had a room I would call the boarding house in Oviedo, since I was hiking much later that I had anticipated.  As it turned out, I found the building, but it didn’t look like a bed and breakfast.  I asked a man who was outside and across the street, he said he had never heard of a bed and breakfast there, so I continued on my way.  I stepped into some little “watering hole” to get something to eat and when I did, I noticed on their TV they had a hard freeze warning out.  I had already noticed it was getting a little nippy.  A couple tricks I’ve learned about cold weather, necessity being the mother of invention, I was able to pull my left arm  up into my sleeve.  I had a fleece jacket on, and then put that hand into the pocket.  My right hand was so cold I was having trouble buttoning the buttons.  I remembered that Grandmother Jennings had shown me how to make mittens out of socks.  I had an extra pair of wool socks in my backpack and pulled them out to use on my right hand.  I used one sock inside of the other, used the thumb where the heel is, tucked the toe back inside of itself and that really worked well for using that hand to hold my walking stick.  I was still wearing walking shorts, but with the fleece jacket and the hands taken care of, I was feeling pretty comfortable as long as I kept moving.  I got into Oviedo at about 10PM.  Marvin and Debbie had left the door unlocked for me.  I stuck my head in and yelled for Marvin, he came out and lead me to my room and said they had left the heater on in the bathroom.  This is a very old house, but the essentials are clean.  I took my shower and headed for the bed.  There is no heat in the house and I could have used one more blanket.  The bed was like sleeping in a hammock, but I was just happy to have a place to sleep.  Later, heard that the low for the night was 25 degrees.

Thursday, 1/27/00  25 miles/550 total      34 trail days.  Oviedo, FL to Seminole Forest on Wekiva River.  I was sleeping pretty lightly because it was so cold last night.  I could hear traffic out on the road and could hear Marvin getting up to go to work.  So I got up so that I could be out of there when Marvin left for work.  I thought Marvin might feel a little uneasy leaving for work with a stranger still in the house.  I got ready to go, grabbed my pack and headed downstairs.  Marvin said “Come on in and get a cup of coffee”.  So I did.  I have to tell you about the coffee – they have a drip coffee maker, much like the one we have at home.  However, they have long since broken the coffee pot, so they had a wide mouthed pickle jar that caught the coffee.  Also, they evidently don’t think much of coffee filters, because they had an old rag that was stuck down in the basket and caught the coffee grounds.  It looked like it was probably used and rinsed out and used again.  Anyway, the coffee tasted pretty good.  In chatting with Marvin, I found out that the house used to be owned by “Sky King” of television fame.  According to Marvin, Sky King owned the house and lived there for years.  He also owned a ranch over in Taintsville and had an airfield on it.  The airfield is reportedly still there today.  Marvin is a structural steel worker, one of the guys who put up the steel beams.  They are the ones walking around on high steel beams with nothing to hang on to.  This is worse than mountain climbing, you have to be like a cat.  Marvin has some pictures of it.  Marvin said to stop by and pick as many oranges and tangelos as I wanted from their trees.  I did stop and pick a couple.  I headed up the road, looked at my watch and it was 5:30AM  and I’m out here in the dark again.  I hiked up the road a ways and found a Hess station that had a grill, disappointingly, the grill wasn’t open yet.  I bought the largest blueberry muffin I’ve ever seen, a huge cup of coffee and a banana.  I sat down at a table and ate.  When I finished, it was starting to get light out and I continued on my way.  About 8:30AM I came across a McDonald’s and thought I’d have a second chance for a warm breakfast.  I went in and had a bacon egg biscuit, and milk.  I was back on the road about 9AM and with the sun out I was beginning to get warm.  About noon I came into the town of Lake Mary.  Beautiful town with a beautiful entrance.  I eventually was hiking up a boulevard with a bike trail, and a woman came riding by on her bike,  a little while later she came riding by the other direction.  I got about a quarter mile up the trail and saw a pair of gloves laying in the trail.  I thought she had probably dropped them and may be coming back by.  They were a nice pair of gloves with leather palms.  The woman did come back and I asked if they were hers and she said they weren’t.  So I’ll see if Betty wants them.  I found a nice sunny spot for lunch, and sat down on a bank out of the wind.  It felt pretty good.  Back on the trail, I was back on a railroad grade and ran into some surveyors.  Danny Martin was one of the surveyors.  He was teaching another guy and then there was a gal who was already a surveyor.  I talked to them a while and told some old surveyor stories (Chuck used to survey in the Florida Everglades) and Danny told some.  They were also interested in hearing about the hike.  Danny said “I bet your surveying experience helps a lot with the trail”.  As I was leaving I thought, yes not only my surveying experience, but also the training I received in the Army helps.  Also, being a pilot and all the training I had with that helps.  The boating navigation classes were also helpful.  Even being in the Hash House Harriers (an off road trail running group) has been good training.  I realized “You know, I’m really well trained for this trail”,  and while all this is going through my head, I missed the trail.  Now I found I was off about half a mile in the wrong direction.  I walked back and found that the trail had made a hairpin turn and I had missed it while I was daydreaming.  About a hour later, I sat down to take a break and the survey crew drove by.  They turned around and came back and we had another chat.  I continued the hike, hiking through Wekiva State Preserve, then back to Hwy 46 and crossed the Wekiva River and hiked through the Seminole State Forest to where we had parked the RV.  I can tell I’m moving north.  First we had a lot of Live Oak, now we have real oak and live oak.  I also saw my first real hickory tree on this trip. I hiked through Hickory Hammock State Park a few days ago and never saw a hickory tree.  Yesterday  when “Natty Bumpo” and I hiked through a cedar grove, so things are changing.   It was about 5:15PM when I arrived at the RV.  I took a shower, fixed something to eat and made notes about today’s hike. 

Friday 1/28/00    18 miles/568 total       35 trail days.  Wekiva River to Johnson Corners.  I got on the trial about 7:30AM.  The hike through this part of the Seminole State Forest is really nice.  It’s a good, well marked trail system with lots of hardwood trees (Live Oak, Spanish Oak, Southern Red Cedar and Pignut Hickory).  Also, a couple of little “hills”, the first moving north on the FT.  “Natty Bumpo” had noticed slight differences in elevation a few days ago, but these little hills were maybe a 40′ rise.  I need more of them to get my climbing gear ready for the Appalachians.  I’ve seen more sign of bears in this area, but have not seen one.  Just before reaching Johnson Corners, the trail passes through a hugh Boy Scout camping area.  Betty and I arrived at Johnson Corner at exactly the same time.  As I stepped onto SR42 to look for a good place to wait, she came driving up.  Good timing, by accident, since she had about a 300 mile drive and I had an eighteen mile hike.  It is interesting to note that I departed 2 hours before Betty left Naples.  We drove back to the Wekiva River, picked up the RV and drove to “Olde Mill Stream RV Resort” in Umatilla, FL just south of the Ocala National Forest.  For those of you who may be out in your RV’s, this RV resort is wonderful.  Lots of activities, very clean, and a computer hook-up in the office for guests of their park. 

Saturday 1/29/00   7 miles/575 total      36 trail days.  Johnson Corners to FR 538.  Warmer weather – a great day!!!  We did some repacking in the RV and Betty drove me to Johnson Corner for a short hike while she cleaned the RV.  We planned to meet and “old” army friend, Tim Scobie for dinner.  The hike was ideal, well maintained and marked trail with pleasant weather.  I met a youth group of about 15 energetic boys and girls from DeLand, FL.  They weren’t hiking,  but had a hundred questions about my hike.  I told them about the Florida Trail.  Later, Betty  and I met Tim for an informative tour of northern Lake County then to dinner at “Vic’s”.  Linda, Tim’s wife, was in Atlanta on business, but we had a chance to visit with her on the phone.   Perfect day with Betty back, good weather, short hike, great trail, old friends and good food.

Sunday 1/30/00  18 miles/593 total    37 trail days.  FR538 to SR40 at Juniper Springs (Ocala National Forest.)  Perfect trail day!  Weather in the 70’s, well maintained and blazed trail.  Just enough terrain relief (pun intended) to be interesting.  I saw several Sandhill Cranes, flushed a wild turkey, lots of deer tracks and some bear sign.  For the past several days the pines have been mostly long leafed yellow pine; today it was mostly short leafed sand pine. 

     With the exception of the Youth Group I saw yesterday, I have seen no one on the trail for weeks.  The youth group was not hiking, they had merely walked a couple hundred feet from their camp to have a discussion group.  It seems a shame that so many volunteers have worked to make this a great trail and it gets so little use.  However, I love having it all to myself.  I arrived at Juniper Springs right at 5:30PM as we had planned and Betty was waiting.

Monday 1/31/00  0 miles/593 total   38 trail days.  We took a day off to get several items accomplished.  Note that in trail life – this still counts as a trail day.  If we had left the trail and  had gone back to Naples for a few days – the days wouldn’t count.  We visited the Ocala National Forest office in Umatilla.  The discussions with their Forest Rangers were very informative.  Both Ann and Janet were most helpful.  Janet even got out a box of stuffed animal feet to help with track identification.  All animals that they use in their education programs are the result of some accidental death.  They also gave us some good publications concerning local trees.  Janet explained that this area was once a big sand beach/desert that stuck up out of the ocean when most of Florida was under water.  Hence, all the sandy soil and sand loving plants (Sand pine, prickly-pear cactus, etc.).

     Our next chore was to relocate the RV to a Forest Service Camp in Salt Springs.  Betty and I had come to Salt Springs by boat about 3 years ago with our good friends Clay Kelley and Mary Beth.  They had invited us to spend a couple of weeks cruising the St. John’s River on their 42′ trawler, “Tanuki”.  We anchored in Lake George and they dropped the dingy over the side for a day’s exploring up the Salt Springs Run.  A great time!!!

     We did not get in any “trail miles” today, but it was educational and relaxing.

Trail Journal

   “How about Key West to Canada”.  We’d been talking about hiking the Florida Trail and the Appalachian Trail.  Bear in mind when we say, ” we’ve been talking about this”  it means Chuck (Swamp Eagle) on the trail all the time, me (Betty aka Honeycomb) on the trail some of the time, and friends and family joining us when they can.  When I don’t hike I run logistics, shopping, taking care of the web page :), provisioning, and finding neat things to do in the area we are passing through.

     Our journey began on Saturday, 11/13/99, with our friends and neighbors Roger and Carol Rose.  Roger will hike with Chuck while Carol and I do what we do best – Shop.  On Saturday we left Naples, FL for Key West arriving in the early evening.  We drove down in the RV with the toad (Honda-CRV).  Roger also drove his van.  We camped at Sigsbee Navy Base and had a waterfront site.  The weather was beautiful.  Entries are from Roger and our notes.

     Sunday 11/14/99 We all headed for the Southernmost Point in Key West where Chuck (Swamp Eagle) and Roger started their trek north at about 9:30 AM.  They walked to mile marker 14, having completed a total of 15 1/2 miles in approximately 5 hours.  The weather was in the high 70’s with a nice breeze and it was a beautiful walk.  Roger was beginning to have problems with his feet.

     Carol and I picked them up at mile marker 14.  Went back to the RV, cleaned up and Chuck and I went out to dinner with Shirley and Jim. We met Shirley on our first tour to Germany in the late 60’s.  It was great seeing her again, meeting Jim, catching up on all the years in between, and reminiscing.  Roger and Carol decided to go do some sightseeing, shopping and dinner. 

     Monday 11/15/99 we moved the RV to Marathon Coast Guard Station in the morning, which meant a late start for the guys.  Chuck and Roger started at mile marker 14 at 11:15 AM and finished at mile marker 30 at 4:30 PM.  Once again the weather was beautiful.  Carol and I positioned a vehicle for the guys.  After our day’s activities we went to Shirley and Jim’s where we met the guys when they finished their hike and showers.  We had a wonderful evening and a delicious meal – grilled mahi-mahi and steak.     

      Tuesday 11/16/99 is day three on this hike.  The guys left mile marker 30 on Big Pine Key at 9:15 AM and arrived at mile marker 47 at about 3:00 PM.  They hiked 17 miles in 5 3/4 hours, averaging approximately 3 MPH with breaks.  The weather, once again, was beautiful.  This is the day they crossed the Seven Mile Bridge.  As they were crossing they could see schools of sting rays down in the water.  They could also look over to Pigeon Key and see Carol and I taking pictures of them.  We had biked out to Pigeon Key, with the intent of getting their pictures as they came across the bridge.  Roger’s notes reflect that he was physically feeling fine, however his feet were very sore.  Chuck and I met Shirley and Jim to go out to dinner at Key Colony Inn.  This will be the last day we will be seeing them this trip.  Carol and Roger decided to go do some things on their own.

     Wednesday 11/17/99 Chuck and Roger left mile marker 47 on Marathon Key at 9:10 AM.  At mile marker 49 Roger’s feet were giving him a lot of trouble and he turned around and walked back to mile marker 48 where the RV was located.  Chuck continued to hike to mile marker 62 near Duck Key, where I picked him up.  At about 2:40 PM Roger bicycled to mile marker 61, arriving there at about 4:00 PM.  Carol picked him up.  That night we ate in the RV. 

     Thursday 11/18/99  Carol and I headed back to Naples, Carol to her job and me to some board duties.  On the way back, we dropped off Roger and Chuck.  Roger biked from mile marker 61 to 62 and then they both started their hike at mile marker 62.  Carol and I positioned the van at mile marker 76 so the guys would have transportation.  Roger states they started out at about 9:10 AM and arrived at their destination at about 2:10 PM.  The weather was beautiful and they enjoyed lunch at a scenic cove.  Roger’s blisters continued to grow.  Chuck and Roger enjoyed another meal at Key Colony Inn.

     Friday 11/19/99  the guys moved the RV to John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park.  They started their hike at mile marker 76 on Lower Matecumbe Key at 10:10 AM and finished a little beyond mile marker 91 at 3:30 PM.  It rained on them most of the day.  They had dinner that evening at “The FishHouse”.

     Saturday 11/20/99 Roger decided to bicycle and give his feet a break.  He dropped Chuck off at the point that they had stopped the day before.  Chuck started hiking at about 8:00 AM.  Roger biked the trail and also moved the van forward for Chuck, both finishing their day at mile marker 106 on Key Largo.  That evening they feasted on Mexican food at “South of the Border”.

     Sunday 11/21/99 Chuck started his hike from mile marker 106.  Roger moved the van forward to mile marker 121 where Chuck would finish his day and take the van back to the RV.  Roger rode his bike back to the RV.   Notable for this day is that it is the day they move off of the Keys and onto the mainland.  Roger’s feet are still healing.  Dinner out at “Snappers”.

     Monday 11/22/99 is day nine on the trip.  Roger dropped Chuck off at mile marker 121 south of  Florida City.  Roger headed back to Naples to prepare for family arriving for Thanksgiving.  Roger and Chuck had prepositioned the RV a day’s walk north.  Chuck would walk to the RV and on the 23rd walk a day’s walk north of the RV and I would pick him up on my  return from Naples.  As it was, after positioning the RV, Roger not only took Chuck back to where he would start his walk for the day, but soon after he had left to drive to Naples, he came back with breakfast for Chuck.  A complete surprise and a very welcome one.  Roger then headed for Naples and Chuck walked to the RV which was parked at Art and Gus’ Nursery on Khrome Avenue.  Chuck shared a beer with Art and Gus, before heading to the Seminole Gaming Palace where he parked for the night with the blessings of security.

     Tuesday 11/23/99  Chuck drove the RV back down to Art and Gus’ Nursery, where he parked again, and started on his hike north.  He hiked up to US Hwy 41 (Tamiami Trail) and turned west.  The first 1/4 of a mile or so he had to hike on the side of the road, but then could cross over the canal and hike on a dike built between the Everglades and the canal.  At noon he crossed over a little bridge to the highway and had lunch at some picnic tables.  As he was finishing his lunch, I arrived with the report that he could continue hiking on the dike since there was another place to cross at about mile 161, which would be the end of this day’s journey.  This particular crossing was near the area where the Value Jet crashed into the Everglades and, as I was waiting for Chuck to arrive, I could see a monument up the gravel road he would be coming in on.  I went up to look at it, and took some videos of it but there wasn’t any marker telling what it was.  When Chuck arrived, some folks had driven out there, in talking to them he found out it was the memorial to the victims in the crash and that those folks had a relative on that plane.

 I picked him up at mile 161 and we went back to get the RV, again sharing conversation and a beer with Art and Gus.  That night we parked at the casino once more and had a great dinner in their restaurant.

    Wednesday 11/24/99  we drove the RV to the beginning of Loop Road.  This would be the last day of this portion of the hike.  After parking the RV, I drove Chuck back to mile 161 where he began his day’s journey.  He arrived at the RV in time for lunch and then continued to hike Loop Rd. to the beginning of the Florida Trail – completing 183 miles.   Home for the Holidays!!