Spell of the Wild

Chuck:

  Last night after I finished my journal notes, our light rain turned into a downpour.  Almost simultaneously, Betty and I said we have to tell Doerte and Marty to come back and stay here for the night.  I grabbed my rain jacket and ran to catch them before they opened their gear bag to retrieve their tent.  When I invited them, Marty said he thought they would be fine, however, Doerte was vigorously shaking her head “Yes”.  They arrived minutes later.  We had more great conversation: the current troubles within the European Union, how bright young people are leaving former East Germany for the West or going to countries outside the EU.  Marty and Doerte are both school teachers and have good jobs, but there are many others who must either live on government programs or move elsewhere.  Sometimes this means leaving an area that has been home to their families for maybe hundreds of years. 

  We pulled out the sofa-bed and offered them fresh sheets & blankets, but, they insisted on using their sleeping bags.  It was their first night in an RV, these world travelers called it “a new adventure”.  This morning, all went smoothly:  dressing, rotating through the single bathroom, breakfast, etc.  They are both very flexible and adapt easily.  We said good-bye and hoped to meet again on down the Alaska Highway.  Betty and I needed to top off the tanks in both the RV and the Honda before entering Canada.  Before leaving, Betty made certain that I had my passport and a second picture ID and I pedaled off to the border.  The border crossing went smoothly for both of us.  Minutes later, I saw our two German friends taking pictures in front of a “Welcome To The Yukon” sign.

    Beaver Creek is only a few miles into the Yukon.  We stopped for lunch and checked out the Visitors Center, they had lots of interesting information about the local area and especially the building of the Alcan Highway in 1942.  They displayed a large Engineer flag that belonged to the 18^th Engineer Battalion.  I biked on while Betty found a place with Internet access and logged on for the first time in nearly a week.  The biking was good, the hills are getting higher, steeper and more numerous, but, still good.  The mostly asphalt road is full of ruts, pot holes and frost heaves and tough on vehicles driving 30 miles per hour.  However, on a bike at less than 15 mph it is not so bad.  Betty was waiting for me at the scenic Rest Stop, Mile Marker 1148, which has a sign saying “No Camping or Overnight Parking”.  She was the only one here, then, others came and some went, but now at 9 pm there are six rigs that clearly intend to spend the night.  While having wine and chips in front of the RV, others joined us; we all decided that it is a Rest Stop and we are “resting”  when no longer in need of “rest” we will depart.  The view here is great; the sun is setting in the west behind multiple peaks, some still snow-capped.  Also, it is quiet, very still, considering we have 6 RVs in a rather small parking area beside the Alaska Highway.

Betty:  I was feeling a bit guilty driving 30 to 35 mph on the road yesterday, but when I went faster I couldn’t stop in time for the huge holes and ruts or frost heaves in the highway.  Then last night in our outside get-together with other RVers they all talked about driving 30 to 35 and expressed my feeling “if someone wants to go faster they can go around”. 

Chuck:

It rained all night.  Listening to the sound of rain on the RV roof is a pleasant way to drift off to sleep.  In the morning, that same sound doesn’t bode so well.  Another day of riding in the rain, ugh.  Somehow, when we were preparing for this trip, I failed to bring along a helmet cover and waterproof shoe covers.  Plastic grocery bags over the socks will do, if replaced each day.  Betty had a blue bag just the right size to cover my helmet and duct tape the excess inside the helmet.  Now, if I could just improvise some miniature wipers for my glasses.

Betty met me at a turn-out for lunch. This is not just any turn-out, we dry camped here on our way into Alaska, nearly six weeks ago. It is here that we discovered we had a flat tire on the right rear of the RV and waited nearly all day to get a new one hauled 85 miles out from Tok and installed (Thanks Willard!).  Today, just for “old times’ sake”, I left the head lights on and had to jump start the car and let it charge during our lunch.  The afternoon ride was nice, not much rain but cooler; high fifties.  Betty selected the Border City Lodge and RV Park so we could get ready for several days of dry camping as we enter Canada.  Actually, Border City is not an accurate description, there are two businesses and a half-dozen residences and the border is still 4 miles south.

We parked the RV, hooked up utilities, showered and were walking to the little restaurant/registration when Doerte and Marty came riding into the parking area.  We all had dinner together.  They agreed to join us for a beer after they get set up for the evening.

Chuck:

It was raining this morning.  I got my gear together just like I was going to bike then waited; and waited.  I really do not like biking in the rain: roads are slick and my bike’s very thin tires need all the traction they can get, my brakes do not work as well when wet and, most importantly, visibility is greatly reduced; both how well drivers can see me and how well I can see them.  I would be wearing a bright orange “Hi-Vis” vest, going slower on downhill runs, etc, but it is still risky.  During a slight break, I decide to go.  Betty plans to check on me often.

About 5 minutes into the ride, more rain.  It actually felt more comfortable; my rain suit doesn’t “breath” well and the rain helps keep me cooler.  Traffic is light and most vehicles have room to give me a wide berth.  My glasses get fogged easily but rain drops clear some of it.   Betty waits about 10 miles down the road, we decide to try another 15 miles then take a lunch break and see what the weather is like for the afternoon.  The road has lots of water on it and passing vehicles sometimes throw a wall of water that creates a couple of seconds of total “rain-out” (I don’t think that is a word, but it is something between a momentary blackout and a white-out).  But, when there is no traffic, the rain is sometimes almost pleasant.  Lunch time, all my clothes are soaked; the outside layer due to rain, inside layers due to sweating.  Betty has dry clothes and hot soup ready for me.  Shortly after lunch the rain stops and the road starts to dry.  Hey, maybe I can get in a few more miles.  I decide against wearing my dripping wet rain gear and pull on my biking shorts and a windbreaker.  Ten miles later, more rain.  Betty is waiting at a turn-out about 15 miles down the road.  Same drill; get out of wet clothes, dry off and get warm. Enough for today!  The inside of the RV is now “decorated” with wet clothes and gear hanging everywhere dripping and drying.

About 7pm, the rain lets up a bit and I grill a couple of burgers outside the RV door.  As I am packing things away, more rain.  An hour or two later, we are getting ready for bed and hear joyous voices outside.  It is Doerte and Marty, our German biking friends.  It is pouring down rain and they are happy as larks, in their rain-suits and their bikes loaded with all their camping gear.  We invite them in but they want to push on two more kilometers to a campground.  It is decided that we will meet the following night at Border City Lodge and RV Park, the last campground before the Canadian Border.

Betty:  I miss having Brendan here sharing the “fun”.  I’m driving all the roads myself now and am not all that excited about this big RV when it comes to driving.  The roads thus far have been decent, however, I know from before that we can expect some terrible road conditions ahead.

Chuck:

It was a late start after a late night.  We had lots of chores to attend to before hitting the road.  I repaired a leak in the hose reel while Betty finished the wash.  Then, she got a ton of groceries while I filled the RV tank with diesel; the RV “eats” more than we do.  The biking was relatively easy, but we are getting into the foothills of the Chugach Mountain Range.  We met for lunch at a roadside turnout on the Tanana River.  My left knee was getting a little cranky again; we decided to reassess our plans at the turnout overlooking Midway Lake.  Beautiful spot, we will stay.  I spent a couple hours cleaning my road bike and equipment, then happy hour and dinner. The lake view and the remoteness, remind us of our visits to the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness in northern Minnesota.

We don’t know if Doerte & Marty are in front of us or behind.  Most likely in front since we got such a late start.  Their planned route is the same as ours for the next 200 miles, then, they will turn west toward the Pacific and catch a ferry south and eventually make their way to Banff NP.

Chuck:

We had dry camped in a wide “pull thru” rest area on Dot Lake, beautiful view.  Another RV camped in front of us.  While Mitzie and I were out for a morning walk, I spotted fresh moose tracks about 20 feet behind our RV.  Evidently, a cow and her calf crossed the highway, walked behind our RV and into the foliage on the lake shore.   After breakfast, as I was biking out of the parking area I saw that the other RV had departed revealing a couple of bikers that had pitched their tent even farther away along the lake.  A young guy waved so I rode toward them.  In front of their tent, they had lots of supplies on a tarp and a cute young blond was busy, most likely fixing breakfast.  More gear and their bicycles were behind them.  We were all eager to exchange info and everyone was talking at the same time when the young lady calmly stood up and finished dressing, I politely looked away and said I was sorry.  She said “Oh don’t be” and continued the conversation without interruption.  They were a German couple and were biking from Anchorage to Haines via Denali NP and Fairbanks.   A few minutes later she followed me over to meet Betty and we filled their drinking water bottles.  We all agreed to meet in the evening at the Tok RV Park.

The terrain in this area is mostly flat and miles go by easily.  Betty had the RV parked and was in the midst of doing laundry when I rolled into the park.  We had finished dinner and were reading when Doerte Jahr and Martin Erdmann biked up beside the RV.  They said they would pitch their tent, get cleaned up and be back.  Shortly after they returned, it started raining; we sat inside talking about bike trips, past trips, future trips, camping, Germany, etc.  It was great!  We were all surprised that it was one o’clock when we parted.  They are a really nice and interesting couple.

Chuck:

  About 3 am I heard rain on the RV roof and went out to cover my bike.  It was already getting light.  It has been almost a month since the solstice and the nights are now mostly dark for about 2 hours.  At this latitude, each day is about 3 3/4 minutes shorter every day.  The rain continued throughout the morning.  We used the time to catch up on correspondence, pay bills, etc.  By mid-afternoon the weather cleared and we headed south on Alaska Highway #2 toward Tok.  Betty dropped me at the same location she had retrieved me last evening.  The highway is still flat and miles slide by easily.  At about mile 17, I spotted a moose grazing in the ditch beside the highway; he watched me and I watched him.  Betty planned to stop for the night at Dot Lake, a picturesque rest stop she had read about in the MilePost guide book.  By the time I arrived, my left knee was complaining again.  Beautiful campsite, thousands of fireweed with bright purple flowers covering the lake shore and the right-of-way along the highway.  A hot shower, happy hour, pasta, a walk along the lake and good-night.

Chuck:

  Last evening, the grand-kids flew off to Virginia to be with their Dad and Suz flew home to Florida.  We are going through “Empty Nest” trauma all over again.  This morning we departed River’s Edge RV Park  and Fairbanks for the last time.  For now anyway, we like Fairbanks, maybe someday?  We have been poking around this area so long it almost feels like home; we pass Fort Wainwright and Eielson AF Base then North Pole on our way to Delta Junction which is the northern terminus of the Alcan Highway (Alaska Highway).  This starts the remaining portion of our Key West to Alaska saga.  The Alcan is listed as about 1425 miles: Dawson Creek to Delta Junction.  The actual distance seems to vary; the original military road was a bit longer then as improvements are made the distance shrinks, also there is a variance between the highway survey length and what vehicles actually measure.  Not a problem, I will pedal away and record my distance when I finish and that will be official. 

  We arrived in Delta Junction in late afternoon and decided to knock out a few miles since it would be light until about midnight.  The plan is to dry camp in downtown Delta Junction. We parked on a gravel lot adjacent to the town mall.  The plan is for Betty to wait about an hour then come to pick me up and we will return to our camp spot.  It was good to be riding again, the road was mostly flat and I breezed along.  Betty got “occupied” and I was at the 23 mile point when she caught me.  She had seen four moose on the way to get me.

Susan and Christy arrived in Anchorage on the 1st of July.  We had a problem with the windshield wiper on the driver’s side of the RV so before we headed out to the peninsula we wanted to be sure it was working.  We found someone who would look at it but told us if it was an easy fix he’d fix it and if it was going to take any length of time it would have to wait until August.  We took the RV in to the service center and it was an easy fix.  GOOD.  Then we went to start the RV and it wouldn’t start.  Brendan brought the car over and we were able to jump start it.  Off we went back to the RV park.  The next morning we were going to head down to Portage for some sightseeing and eventually our Glacier Cruise.  Once again the RV wouldn’t start, even our jumping it wouldn’t start it.  So we called AAA.  They were unable to get it to start.  After replacing everything we could think of, we finally found it was the starter.  Chuck ordered a new starter and he and Kevin (who worked at the RV park but also worked in an RV service center) installed it.  What a wonderful sound when the engine cranked up.  During this trying time we were able to drive the car to Portage and go on the Glacier Cruise – which was absolutely awesome.  We went to a Musk Ox farm in Palmer (north of Anchorage) and the Native Heritage Museum.  We had a wonderful time in Anchorage in spite of the difficulties.  Chuck spent a lot of time working on the RV but did go on the cruise.

Michael (another grandson) flew into Anchorage on the 9th of July to travel to Denali and Fairbanks with us.  We left Anchorage on the 10th and drove to Denali.  We had our Kantishna Experience Tour of Denali on the 11th of July.  The day was beautiful.  The tour was 12 hours, our guide was a wealth of information.  Dena was able to drive the bus and tell us all about the park and the animals we were seeing.  We saw, eight grizzlies, a few moose, fox, lots of caribou, many different birds and beautiful scenery.  We got a peek at Mt. McKinley.  It was a wonderful day.

On the 12th of July we headed to Fairbanks where we visited the University of Alaska museum and their animal research center, went gold panning on a Gold Dredge Tour, and other sightseeing within the city.  On 15 July Brendan, Christy and Michael flew out of Fairbanks to Virginia for an O’Brien reunion,  Susan flew to Florida and Chuck and I were left with an empty nest.  We drove back to Delta Junction on the 16th to get back on track with the biking.

Betty:

We are in Anchorage and are going to be sightseeing between now and 15 July.  Susan and Christy are flying into Anchorage tonight, we will explore the city and then head to the peninsula and do some sightseeing, then we’re off to Denali for a wilderness tour and eventually to Fairbanks where Susan and the grandkids will fly out for their respective destinations.  We’ll keep you posted from time to time on our activities.  Don’t look for bike journals until the 16th of July when Chuck and I will drive to Delta Junction and resume the bike ride south to Dawson Creek, BC

Chuck:

Betty and I had breakfast in the little restaurant, we had a good view of the mountains. Very nice place! The highway hugs the north side of the deep & steep Matanuska Valley. A horse grazing near the right side caused a “cry wolf” moose alert. Then only a quarter mile later on the left, really was a moose grazing. Low clouds moved down the mountain sides bringing a thick mist. This became a bit tricky since we have not located a shop that can repair the driver’s side windshield wiper. Ahead of us, an oncoming RV had stopped in the roadway, maybe to avoid hitting a moose that we saw careening down the steep embankment to get away. We regained cell coverage as we neared Palmer (about 40 miles east of Anchorage) and Betty contacted an RV repair shop in Anchorage. They can look at the windshield wiper problem on Monday. Great. Using MilePosts (an Alaska & NW Canada traveler’s guide-book published annually), Betty located a Fred Meyer store (much like a super Wal-Mart) in Eagle River, about 13 miles NE of Anchorage. Wonderful, we need groceries and a place to park for the night, this may work.