14 April: Had a good night’s sleep, awoke early feeling great, had a shower and started getting this journal up to date. Jeez, it feels good to feel good. And, yes I will stay on the antibiotics for the prescribed time.
Today, about 1pm we crossed the Volga, the longest river in Russia. Now as we roll westward through Europe toward Moscow there are more cities and much more heavy industry, more apartment buildings, more decaying buildings and more vehicles on the roads, more communication towers, more trash, more graffiti.
We were at the edge of Moscow right on schedule, but for some reason were put on a side track and waited for nearly an hour before moving into the station.
As always, we all scanned the crowd waiting for the train to stop and trying to identify our guide. Even though several of those waiting were carrying signs with the name of their group, none was ours. In the past our guide would have a sign saying “Betty” or “Betty Wilson”. Finding none this time, we all watched closely as we walked down the long platform, through the station and out to the street. Nothing! We positioned all the luggage near what looked like a main entrance. Then some of us fanned out to search for our guide while others guarded the baggage and watched all who entered and departed. After about 30 minutes we spotted a bus with a sign in the window; “Betty Wilson”. The driver spoke no English, but was overjoyed to link up with us. There was no guide. We were delivered to the historic Sovietsky Hotel, an older but classy hotel. Opposite the registration desk were dozens of large pictures of world famous people who had been previous guests: Stalin, Brezhnev, Ceausecu, Indira Gandhi, Konrad Adenauer, Margaret Thatcher, Pierre Cardin, Chuck Norris, Arnold Schwartzenegger and many others.
The “Moscow by Night” tour had been cancelled because, we are told, it duplicated our scheduled day tour so Betty, Fran, Charlotte and I decided to take the subway to see the lights at Red Square. Moscow is a large city of 16 million. It has 9 large railroad stations, 6 airports and an elaborate subway system. Some of the subway stations are over 500 feet below street level and many of the underground stations are huge with ceilings over a hundred feet high and constructed of elaborately carved marble, many frescoes and statues. When constructed, the subways had a secondary purpose as bomb/fallout shelters.
Before returning, we toured the classy GUM Department store looking for a place to eat. It was nearly 10 pm and all the shops were closing. We did find a great old restaurant at the edge of Red Square. It was in a vaulted basement, the food and service were great. And, best of all; live music. Two guys in traditional dress played a guitar and a lute. We had a great time.
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Woke up today with the remains of a strange creature in my bed. Returned it to Jen for breakfast with a fork in it. We crossed the Volga River during breakfast. Still frozen and many ice fishers were out trying their luck. As I look out the windows, I don’t see a lot of difference from the countryside around Irkutsk – little barricaded farms, log houses with the painted shutters, lots of birch, a little more pine, people dressed in winter clothes going about their chores.
We checked into our hotel – a ponderous thing – marble arches – high ceilings, etc. Then we walked to the subway and rode to Red Square. It was all lit up and amazing! Walked around St. Basil’s and through the Gum Department Store. I could do some serious shopping here.
We had a superior late supper of salads and wine and beer in a neat restaurant just inside the gate to Red Square. A man dressed in a caftan with a staff showed us into the restaurant and two musicians were playing Russian folk music. Really fun! Fran