Appalachian Trail – 7/1/00 – 7/15/00 – Harpers Ferry, WV to Wind Gap, PA

Saturday  7/1/00  23 miles/2772 total. ATC-HQ, Harpers Ferry to I-70.

It was an early departure from the RV due to a long drive to the starting point.  Plus, we were expecting friends we knew in Hawaii to arrive in the afternoon.

The early morning hike through Harpers Ferry was special.  Everything was quiet in this neat little parklike town.  The AT passes the old fire station in which John Brown and his men barricaded themselves in 1862.  The US Marines later stormed the building.  John Brown was captured, found guilty of treason, murder, and inciting rebellion.  He was hanged two months later.

The Shenandoah River and the Potomac River join at Harpers Ferry.  Both rivers are full of rapids and make a beautiful view.  The  C&O (Chesapeake and Ohio) Canal was built to bypass the rapids and it extends to Washington, D.C.  The canal is no longer functional and the many locks have been removed.  A narrow raised bank between the Potomac River and the C&O Canal has a multiple use trailway on it.  I saw many folks hiking, running and bicycling.  The AT is also on this path for three miles then it turns north along a ridgeline.  About 10 miles later the trail passes through Gathland State Park (Maryland).  A Civil War reenactment group was wearing Union uniforms and demonstrating as an Artillery Battery.  The cannons seemed to be louder than modern artillery that is hundreds of times more powerful.  “Stonewall Jackson” and his Regiment fought several battles in this area.  General Reno was killed during the Civil War  about six miles north, near where the AT is now located.

At noon I met “DMA” a robust thru-hiker from L.A.  He said the belt on his old pack would not reach around his midsection when he started at Springer Mountain three months ago.  Also, he said his pack then weighed 62 pounds.  He has now lost over 30 pounds of his own weight, plus he has reduced his pack weight by 30 pounds, so he has gotten rid of more total weight than his pack weighed at the start.

When I arrived at the campsite, our friends, Scott and Missy Sheldon, were there with Betty.  Their young son, Luke, is now 6 months old.  We had a good time catching up on each other’s activities and the whereabouts of mutual friends.  Betty whipped up lots of tacos; Brendan had five and E.J. and I refused to track the number we had.

Betty:  Susan and I prepositioned the Honda at Chuck’s ending point and then she,  E. J. and the boys went to Gettysburg for the day.  The boys had noticed, after their return to the campground, that Tom was building a wonderful fire at the community fire pit.  Just as soon as dinner was finished the boys were anxious to explore the area and to roast marshmallows.  Scott is staying to hike for a few days.  Missy and Luke headed back to Columbia, Maryland, E.J. and the boys headed out to the fire, Chuck was working on his journal and Susan and I were finishing up the dishes and then headed out for the marshmallows.  The boys had a great time at the community fire.  There is a lot of camaraderie here, and it is like a big happy family.  It didn’t take the boys long to get to know the other campers and Mikey was soon entertaining them.  This campsite is really neat, we have a lounge, bathrooms/showers, and a little office with computer hookup.

Sunday  7/2/00  18 miles/2790 total.  171 Trail Days.  I-70 to Pen-Mar.

Betty drove Scott and me to the start point.  While in the parking area, we met a man from Switzerland. He and his wife are touring North America in a VW camper.  They plan to drive to Alaska, then south through Mexico and possibly on to South America.  They plan to be on the road about a year.

Meanwhile back on the AT, Scott and I had an easy morning hike.  We stopped for lunch at a new shelter called Ensign Shelter.  “Speck” and his brother stopped in while we were eating then “Mercury” and his hiking buddy arrived.  The afternoon was just beginning to drag when we heard little voices on the trail ahead of us.  It was the grandsons with E.J.  They showed Scott and me the view from High Rock.  Scott did really well for his first day on the trail, plus he is in the final stage of breaking in new boots.  He wisely decided to stop after 15 miles and ride back with E.J., Susan, and Mikey.  Betty, Brendan and Bobby hiked the remaining few miles with me.  The three mile trip down to Pen-Mar and the Pennsylvania State Line was rocky and slow going.  The boys were full of energy and breezed right through the rocky areas.  It was good to hike with Betty again.  Suz, E.J., Mikey and Scott drove on back to the RV while we were finishing our hike over the rocks.

When we arrived at the RV site, we saw “Golden Eagle” parking his Montana RV (5th wheel).  We met him about three weeks ago.  He is supporting his wife, “Virginia Bluebird” and his brother, “Mississippi Hiker”.  We will all be at the same campsite for the next few days so we plan to carpool a few times and give the support teams a little break.

Monday  7/3/00   18 miles/2808 total.  172 Trail Days.  Pen-Mar to US 30.

Wayne, “Golden Eagle”, and I agreed that he would drive “Mississippi Hiker”, Scott and me to the trailhead at Pen-Mar (Pennsylvania-Maryland).  Betty would then pick us all up in the afternoon.

Scott set the pace and he planned to drop off at a road crossing after about eight miles.  At Antietam Shelter, Scott stretched his hammock between two trees alongside the East Branch of Antietam Creek, near where we would pick him up later.  “Mississippi Hiker” set a fast pace going up the hillside to Chimney Rocks.  By lunch, we had knocked out all but five miles for the day.  We sat on the grass at the entrance to a Vision Quest (VQ) camp and ate lunch.  One of the VQ staff members was working nearby and told us that VQ had many camps and activities for “troubled” youth.  They take long bike, canoe and wagontrain trips across the country.  We took our time hiking the last few miles and Betty met us at the trails intersection with US 30.  She then drove back to pick up Scott, then took us back to camp and we called it a day.

In the evening, we all went to eat at Sheraton’s Mallard Restaurant in Chambersburg, PA.  We were having an early celebration of Susan and E.J.’s 11th Wedding Anniversary.  It was a good time!!

Betty:  Susan, E.J. and the boys went to the Hershey factory.  When they returned they had some presents for me – a Hershey bear (same size as the beanie bears) and a box of candies.  They know what I like!!  We’ve been having such a great time, but their departure is coming too quickly!

Tuesday  7/4/00  20 miles/2828 total.  173 Trail Days.  US 30 to Pine Grove Furnace State Park.

As I started up the trail, Betty attached a small American Flag to the top of my pack.  It fluttered just behind my head all day.

The first 2 1/2 miles up to Quarry Gap Shelters went quickly.  “Top Dog” had spent the night there and was packing his gear.  As we talked, hikers arrived every few minutes.  “The Groom” and “Wall Street”, both large muscular guys with heavy dark beards, were followed by “Swamp Fox” and his wife Debra, who is visiting from the S.E. coast of Florida.  Then, “Mississippi Hiker” and “Virginia Bluebird” arrived just as I was leaving.

At the eleven mile point, I crossed Shippensberg Road and saw a shaded grassy area that was just right for a lunch break.  As I was nesting into a comfortable position, with a hickory tree for a backrest, two women drove up in a Mercury Mountaineer, got out and asked if I would like soda, beer, iced tea or chilled water with my lunch.  These “Trail Angels” were “The Bride” and “Wildflower”, the wives of “The Groom” and “Wall Street”, respectively.  Soon most of the hikers that were at Quarry Gap Shelter were sitting on the ground having lunch.  “Wildflower” and “Bride” are thru-hikers that were driving Debra’s SUV and carrying the large packs of many hikers, allowing them to slack-pack for the day.

Betty drove to a trailhead a few miles from our ending point and dropped Scott so he could hike in with me.  The day’s finish was at a General Store along the AT in Pine Grove Furnace State Park.  Because this store is very close to the exact half-way point of the AT, it is a tradition that thru-hikers eat a half-gallon of ice cream before proceeding up the trail.  I chose Butter Pecan and Betty and Scott claimed they were exempt because they were not actually hiking all of the AT.  It took me about 40 minutes to down the whole thing.  On the way back to the RV, Betty and Scott stopped at KFC to get something to eat.  They knew I did not care for KFC and that I definitely was not hungry.

We celebrated the “4th of July” by sitting around a large community fire socializing with other campers.

The campers and Tom were all talking about how much they enjoyed Brendan, Bobby and Mikey.

Betty:  This was the day we had been dreading.  Susan, E.J., Brendan, Bobby and Mikey were packing up to head back to Charlottesville, VA.  We said our farewells and they were off for the long drive back.  Scott was not going to be hiking until late today because of a blister and I had asked if he would help me install a zip drive and also show me how to get my scanned pictures onto the website.  This is something I’ve been hoping to learn to do.  If there is a picture on the front page, you’ll know it worked and that there will be more pictures to follow!  Missy and Luke will be coming to pick Scott up tomorrow.  Missy called and said she was bringing a casserole of Ziti and garlic bread.  I will prepare a salad.  We’re looking forward to seeing her and Luke again.

Wednesday  7/5/00  11 miles/2839 total.  174 Trail Days.  Pine Grove Furnace State Park to PA 94.

Scott and I departed Pine Grove Furnace State Park and easily climbed the gentle 700 foot grade up Piney Mountain.  We had lots to talk about and the miles went by quickly.

Scott was a co-founder of the Aloha Hash House Harrier running group in Hawaii.  Betty and I were active in the Aloha Hash.  It was a good mix of military and civilian runners.  We loved the challenging runs, the socializing and the fun.  I think Scott and Missy met on one of the Aloha runs.  She and several other female runners worked for Northwest Airlines.  It is interesting to see this young couple in their new role as the very dedicated parents of six month old Luke.

About three miles from the end of the day’s hike, Scott found a place at a road crossing to stretch his hammock and cool his heels.  I continued to the end point, then Betty and I drove back to retrieve Scott.  We all like these short pleasant hikes that give us time for other activities.  Today, we wanted to be at the RV park before Missy and Luke arrived to pick up Scott.

Missy brought Ziti, garlic bread and brownies with her, Betty made a large salad and I was in charge of the wine.  We had a great meal and a good visit.  As with Suz and E.J., we enjoy hearing the plans and dreams of young couples as they eagerly plot their course through life.  We are glad they made the effort to join us for a few days.

Thursday  7/6/00  19 miles/2858 total.   175 Trail Days.  PA 94 to US 11.

The first order of business was to drop the RV off for some repair work.  Betty had located D & J Truck Repair, that was nearby and recommended by another RV owner.  We wanted them to check the brakes, fix the dash air-conditioner, and investigate a pungent, “burnt-like” odor that had filled the coach just as we pulled into Letterkenny campground.  Also, they would change the oil and lube it while in there.

Betty had me on the trail by 9AM.  The first six miles were up and down through a wooded area.  Over Rocky Ridge then down and back up over Center Point Knob, it was a comfortable and interesting hike.  Then the terrain became flat and wandered through corn and wheat fields, pastures and along small streams.  It was a departure from the “green tunnel” that has held us for so many miles.

Along the way, I met a young couple hiking south.  “Blaster” and “Pie” had started in Delaware Water Gap and were on a grand flip-flop.  They planned to hike to Key West then flop back to Cape Gaspe, Canada.  They had heard that Betty and I were hiking from Key West to Cape Gaspe and had been hoping to find us.  “Swamp Fox” was a mile or two in front of me and alerted them that I would probably be the next hiker they met.  They had a thousand questions about the portion I had already covered: the Benton MacKaye, the Pinhoti, connector trails, road walks, the Florida Trail, etc.  They wanted to know about hiking in the Florida Keys, where they could get maps of trails that most outfitters have never heard of, and about the difficulty of the swamp hikes, and much more.  It seemed a little bizarre to be standing in the woods in the middle of Pennsylvania telling strangers how to hike to places over two thousand miles away, places from which I had hiked.  We swapped “points of contact” and I promised to send them more information, then we were gone, them south and me north.  It was a strange feeling.

The trail led through downtown Boiling Springs, PA, a quaint little town around a long narrow lake.  Someday I’ll have to bring Betty back to see this special place and we’ll eat at the old (est. 1882) Boiling Springs Tavern.

The trail was so easy to hike that I arrived at our meeting place over an hour early.

Friday  7/7/00  19 miles/2877 total.  176 Trail Days.  US 11 to Duncannon, PA.

We spent the night parked outside D & J’s Truck Repair.  They completed all the repairs except the dash air conditioner and the parts that are needed will not arrive until Saturday.  Apparently there was a short in the AC control.  Not only did the AC not operate, but the melting plastic in the control box caused the pungent odor that concerned us.  The brake problem was due to a sticking caliper.  The net result of all this is that we will spend two nights in D & J’s large truck parking area.  They stay open until midnight and tractor trailers are in and out at all hours plus dozens park all night with their generators serenading us.  We found a quieter spot in the back which is close to Interstate 81 with its own nightly whaling.

After dealing with the repair shop, Betty had me on the trail a little after 10AM.  During the first five miles through Pennsylvania Dutch farms and valleys, I met “Mother Hen” hiking south.  She is well known on this part of the AT for the generous “Trail Magic” she casts upon thru-hikers.  She shuttles hikers to and from her house near Boiling Springs, PA, provides meals, accommodations, etc.  On the Fourth of July she had over 25 hikers at a big feed and party that lasted all afternoon and ended with fireworks in the evening.  Today, she had shuttled some hikers well north on the trail and was hiking back to Boiling Springs while another hiker drove her vehicle back home.  We must have stood in the middle of the trail for over a half hour talking.  She is typical of a lot of folks associated with the trail; they are intelligent, energetic, caring people who see more to life than making money.  It is obvious that “Mother Hen” and her family are rich beyond dollars.

As the trail climbed Blue Mountain, the rocks started.  We have all heard much about the “rocks of Pennsylvania”.  Past Tuscarora Trial, Darlington Trail, Thelma Marks Shelter and Hawk Rock, the trail descends steeply down a rocky mountainside to the Susquehanna River and Duncannon, PA.  This quiet little river town is filled with large and small old homes, some are neat as a pin and others are in disrepair and have junk that has accumulated over the years.  The nicely mowed lawns, colorful flower beds and boxes, and large shade trees looked inviting.  After 19 miles on the trail I was tempted to walk up on one of the large porches and join some of the older ladies in a cool glass of lemonade.  Since I was running (walking) a little late, Betty and Levi walked south through town to meet me.  After making a three mile loop they drove back and picked me up about a half mile from our intended rendezvous point.

Back at D & J Truck Repair, we will have another night with the big rigs.

Saturday  7/8/00

Betty:  It is afternoon and the part for the air conditioner has arrived.  The air conditioner is being repaired as I am finishing up the last of the journal entries.  From here we will head for the trail with a gas stop at Flying J’s where I have found they have computer connections and will load these entries on the website.  Then it’s back on the road and off to the trail.

Later:  Things didn’t turn out as they should have on the air conditioner or the computer.  For some reason, the computer and I can’t agree that it will update the website, I could get online to send and receive messages, but couldn’t get the website to load.

Saturday  7/8/00  0 miles/2877 total.  177 Trail Days.   Maintenance Day.

The air conditioner switch was due here before noon.  Since it is over 30 miles north to our start point on the AT, we decided to wait for the part, have it installed, then drive the RV forward so we would not have to drive back after it.  Result: the part did not come in  until 2PM, it was installed by 4PM, but the air conditioner still did not function, and no hiking for the day.  Apparently, the clutch on the air conditioner compressor is broken and the switch overheated while continuously cycling to start it.  Of course (?),  the repair folks could not know this until the switch was replaced.  Anyway, they close at 4PM on Saturdays and are not open on Sunday and we are out of here.  We’ll make arrangements to take it in someplace on up the trail.

We moved the RV forward to the little town of Ono.  One of the three or four stores in town is the O’Yes Convenience Store.  We ate at Antonio’s Pizza, another of the stores.  It was not one of our better days.

Sunday  7/9/00  18 miles/2895 total.  178 Trail Days.  Duncannon, PA to PA 325.

Out of Duncannon, across the Juanita River and the Susquehanna River, then up the switchbacks to the ridge on Peters Mountain, the day was off to a good start.  I met “Baby Ruth” coming back from a hike in with “Rascal” and “Sunny”.

The trail stayed on top of this rocky ridge all day.  Just before lunch I overtook Theran and “Cincinatus”, then I met a couple of day hikers from Lancaster.  They were carrying an extra hundred pounds or so each and neither had a pack.  The lady explained that they had read Bill Bryson’s book “A Walk in the Woods” and were motivated to hike and get in shape.

Shortly before starting the descent down to Clarkes Gap to meet Betty, I saw a hiker lying on his bedroll about one foot off the trail.  It was “Ziggy” who said he likes to hike at night and when he gets tired he drops his gear and calls it home.  “Ziggy” is an interesting guy; he is from NE Alabama and tries to night hike the week before and the week after every full moon.  He said the biggest problem was trying to sleep during the heat of the day.  I suggested that a more secluded location might have less interruptions.  He didn’t seem to think that was a problem.

Betty was at Clarkes Creek and whisked me back to our “dry camp” at Ono for a hot shower and a cold beer. Oh, yes!!

Betty:  I found a Lutheran Church this morning after dropping Chuck off on the trail.  I had noticed since coming into Pennsylvania there are a lot of Lutheran churches.  This afternoon, I headed back to pick up  Chuck.  I went out about an hour early, since he is often early.  When I got to the trailhead, “Golden Eagle”, support person for “Mississippi Hiker” and “Virginia Bluebird”, was there waiting for his hikers.  As we were chatting, “Baby Ruth” and “Sunny” came down the trail and joined us.  A few minutes later, “Rascal” appeared, followed by “Mississippi Hiker” and “Virginia Bluebird”.  After chatting for a few minutes, everyone went on their separate ways.  “Swamp Eagle” appeared on the scene about a half hour before his expected arrival.

Our “dry camp” is a parking area where there are some stored tractor trailers.  There was a vacant concrete slab there between two trailers, and it looked like “home” for a couple days.

Monday  7/10/00  27 miles/2922 total.   179 Trail Days.  PA 325 to PA 645.

Early morning, light fog, an easy grade up the trail to the long ridge on top of Stony Mountain, life is good.  A few hundred feet up the trail a young doe is grazing, I stop to watch for a few minutes then she and I both move onward.  Earlier, as Betty drove me to the starting point, we saw a doe and two fawn on the side of the road; it was a beautiful scene.

About six miles up the trail, I found “Rascal”, “Sunny” and “Baby Ruth” taking a break at the ruins of Yellow Springs village.  “Baby Ruth” wanted to explore what was left of the old mining community, then hike back to the trailhead and move their camper forward.

During a short “map break”, “Mississippi Hiker” caught up with me.  We hiked together the rest of the morning and into the afternoon.  He dropped off about 3PM at Swatara Gap to meet his support crew, “Golden Eagle”.

In another life, I had hiked this portion of the AT across Swatara Creek.  It was in 1979 and I was on temporary duty at Fort Indiantown Gap.  For about ten miles the AT has been tracing along the northern border of the military reservation.

A few switchbacks and the trail climbs out of the Swatara Valley and is on the ridgeline of Blue Mountain.  Interstate 81 paralleled this long narrow ridge southwest of Swatara and Interstate 78 follows it all the way northeast to Allentown.  Many times, over the years, as I have speeded along on these super highways, I have dreamed of being on the AT and that ridgeline which is within site, but a lifetime away.

It was a long day and just a couple miles from the finish I overtook Paul Johnson, a 72 year old section hiker carrying a huge pack.  He said he started section hiking the AT at age 41 as a scout leader and has done all the trail from Springer Mountain, Georgia to this point.  He said that, at this rate, he will complete the AT at Katahdin at age 100.

Betty was waiting at the trailhead with ice cold soft drinks and a ride back to the RV.  We moved the rig forward about 60 miles to Sacony Campground near Crystal Cave.

Betty:  Sacony Campground is another of the Passport America participating campgrounds.  It is really pretty.  It’s back in the country (about 7 miles off the interstate).  We have a nice, big, beautiful, grassy lot.  There is a creek that runs along the back of the campground and it apparently is good fishing, since there are several people out there casting.  We haven’t been disappointed in any of the campgrounds we’ve found listed in the Passport America camp book and because you get your site for half price, we’re really happy about that.  I told “Golden Eagle” about it and gave him the book to look through.  He has joined now also and they are moving into this campground tomorrow.  A campground, such as this one, that is normally $24 is $12 for us, so in four nights you have paid for your membership.  The membership for PA is $39 per year, but if someone joins due to your recommendation, you get a $10 certificate toward your next year’s membership.  What a deal!!

Tuesday  7/11/00   26 miles/2947 total.  180 Trail Days.  PA 645 to Port Clinton, PA.

This was another 26 miles day, so I tried to knock out some quick miles early.  After about two miles, I met a group of thru-hikers as the AT crossed PA 501.  “Limbo” called out my name and I walked over to talk with them.  She introduced me to “DR”, “Sailboat” and “Poster”.  They have two cars available for a few days and are “reverse slack-packing” to put in a lot of miles in a short time.  Today, “Sailboat” and “Poster” are driving 24 miles ahead to Port Clinton and will hike back to pick up the second car at PA 501.  “Limbo” and “DR” will hike directly into Port Clinton.  Since we were all slack-packing we made good time.  These youngsters hike a little faster than I care to sustain for a long distance, but they take longer breaks so we kept leap-frogging right into Port Clinton where I introduced them to Betty and she treated us all to a cold soft drink.

Along the way, I overtook “Wasabe”.  We hiked past the location of old Fort Synder, established in 1755. Young Benjamin Franklin was assigned here and probably drank from the same spring that hikers now use as they rest here.

The descent down into the Schuylkill River Valley and Port Clinton was very steep.  There were almost no switch-backs, just an “elevator-like” descent.  The very much inland Port Clinton (maybe the very first example of “Clinton speak”) was so named because in the early 1800’s a canal constructed by the Schuylkill Navigation Canal Company connected the nearby coal fields with the sea.  Residents chose the name Clinton due to admiration for Governor Dewitt Clinton of Erie Canal fame.  It is an interesting town with some quaint shops, watering holes, and a population of about 400.  On our way out of Port Clinton we were hailed by “Urban Camper”.  He, his son (who has been hiking with him recently), and his brother were eating at a quaint little bed and breakfast.  We stopped and joined them.  Soon we were joined by “Mr. Zip”, a retired postal worker.  It was great fun, and a wonderful meal.

Wednesday  7/12/00  0 miles/2947 total.  181 Trail Days.  Visited Aunt Vivian and Poochie.

We took this day off to visit my Dad’s sister, Vivian MacDonald, and my cousin, Vivian (Poochie).  They live near Collegeville, PA which is about a hundred miles from the AT.  Pooch has done a beautiful job modernizing an old coach house that was typical of this area about 150 years ago.  The setting is perfect with a large yard, garden, and huge shade trees.  We had a very enjoyable afternoon visiting and talking about old family stories and ancestors.  Pooch and I are both interested in our family tree.  She showed us the results of some of her intensive research.  About a year ago I gave her a single floppy disk with all the data I had collected over the years.  Today she gave us eight disks with all the information she had added.

Growing up we didn’t see this family much because Pooch’s dad was in the Air Force and they were always stationed in some exciting, far away place like Alaska or Timbuktu.  Their travels enchanted me and eventually I was following a similar path, “… the curse of the gypsy blood”.  The few times we have been together in recent years, we have instantly “connected” as relatives should.  This was one of those special times.

Pooch and Aunt Vivian are getting ready for a move back to Indiana.

Thursday  7/13/00  27 miles/2974 total.  182 Trail Days.  Port Clinton to PA 309.

“Mississippi Hiker” and his crew are camped in the Sacony RV park near our site.  Last night Betty volunteered to drop “MH” off at his starting point then take me to Port Clinton to start where I had stopped two days ago.

The climb out of the Schuylkill River Valley and up Blue Mountain was, thankfully, more gently graded than the descent on the west side.  Just past Pocahontas campsite I overtook, “Web-Breaker”.  He retired from the Army the same year I did so we had lots to talk about as we hiked on to Windsor Furnace Shelter for a morning break.  “Rascal” and “Sunny” arrived right behind us, since I had a long day ahead,

I excused myself and pushed on to Pulpit Rock.  Over a hundred young Civil Air Patrol cadets were training in this area.  They were honing their skills in rock climbing, rappeling, search and rescue, etc.  Of course, this military-like operation was like deja vous so I spent too much time talking with their leaders and learning about the CAP mission.

“Rascal” and “Sunny” caught up to me.  As we hiked on “Rascal” told us to pick up a rock from the trail and carry it a short way for a special purpose.  Around a bend and just prior to the Pinnacle was a huge pile of rocks.  A circular mound, nearly ten feet high in the middle and about 40 feet in diameter, was the result of hikers tossing rocks from the trail.  The trail was a little smoother for a few hundred feet.  We had lunch on the Pinnacle then I quickly moved on to address the 17 miles that remained for the afternoon.  My goal on most days is to have “single digits” (less than ten miles) by lunch time.  This wasn’t one of those days.

Near Balanced Rock, I overtook “Molder” and “Skully”, a young couple who pack light and move fast.  We leap-frogged the remainder of the afternoon.  Fortunately, the last five miles were mostly smooth trail with a slight downward slope – ideal.  The day’s end was a trailhead parking area along PA 309.  Betty was there, as was “Baby Ruth” and Franz, with his wife, Anna.  I had not seen Franz for over a month.  Retired from the Army Special Forces, this “Snake eater” is a really gung-ho hiker.  Anna is now supporting him using their Ford Bronco.  This is similar to the method of car-camping support that Betty and I used on the Colorado Trail three years ago.  We had a good time talking, relaxing and rehydrating.  Franz and I were both drafted when we had dropped out of college, we both were in Air Force ROTC, we both wanted to learn to fly, we were both based out of the same small Special Forces camp in Kontum, Vietnam and we made careers in the Army.  Now, we are both happily on the AT with our loving wives supporting us.

It was a long but a good day.

Friday  7/14/00  19 miles/2993 total  183 Trail Days.  PA 309 to Little Gap.

We moved the RV forward to the town of Wind Gap, PA.  I started the hike late.  It was a long hike with lots of rocks and I ended up with sore feet.  There was a long, very steep, rock scramble out of Lehigh Gap which was exhilarating with great views.  The vegetation at the top of the mountain was all dead, maybe due to zinc smelters.  This area is now an EPA Superfund clean-up site.  I encountered a three foot copperhead on the trail,  it’s the first poisonous snake I’ve seen in weeks.

A good but hard day.  A beer and a bed sound great.

Saturday  7/15/00  15 miles/3008   184 Trail Days.  Little Gap to Wind Gap.

It rained during the night and early morning, but stopped just before Betty got me to the start point.

More rocks on the trail, mostly small stuff.  During lunch “Mousetrap”, “Goin Home” (from Maine), “Welches” (from Tampa), and “Magnum” passed me.  They planned to stop at the Leroy Smith Shelter a few miles ahead.

Just after I cleared Smith Gap, I met a man coming down the trail toward me.  He was wearing dirty clothes, had long hair and a beard, and he had his belongings in two bags.  He had a long pole balanced on his shoulder and a bag was attached to each end of the stick.  Now, most of us out here look pretty bad and borderline homeless, but this guy really looked like a bum.  He said hello and asked how far it was to Smith Gap, but he never stopped walking.

About three miles later, beside the trail was a bundle containing a foam mat, it was covered with plastic bags and duct tape.  After shouting to see if anyone would claim this litter, I stuck the end of my hiking stick through some of the duct tape.  Now, with my stick over my shoulder and the bundle dangling from the end, I surely looked like a bum as I carried this trash the seven miles to Wind Gap and a trash can.

Later, a Ridge Runner, Vince, told me that the unusual hiker with the long pole and a bag on each end was “Springer”.  Evidently, “Springer” is the first southbound hiker of year 2000.  This is a very prestigious honor among thru-hikers.  It is rather like wearing the yellow jersey at the Tour de France.  Again, I am reminded not to judge others so quickly.

Betty met me at Wind Gap and whisked me back for a shower.  After dinner we went to the small local movie theater to see “The Patriot” with Mel Gibson.  This was the first movie we have seen in over six months; it was good.

Betty: Congratulations Swamp Eagle on going over 3000 miles today!!!

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