Tuesday 8/1/00 21 miles/3284 Total. 201 Trail Days. MA Rte 23 to US 20.
Early start, misting off and on, good hiking day in the Berkshire Mountains. Yesterday, wet socks and faulty boots chaffed the skin off the back (Achilles) of my left foot above the heel. Today I wore low cut, synthetic pseudo boots (New Balance 961) which were low enough not to irritate the area chaffed by the Vasque Sundowners yesterday. During the day, I overtook “Pioneer” and his hiking partner plus met seven southbounders.
We are camped in the October Mountain State Forest, their hot shower was great. Then, Betty drove us into the town of Lee, Mass. We ate at the Cactus Cafe, it was good and plentiful. Lee is a small, clean, interesting town, I think we like Massachusetts. It’s amazing what little things can do for the attitude: a good night’s sleep, fewer mosquitos, no rain, hot shower, a margarita, good meal and a healing heel.
Betty: The Berkshires are a cultural Mecca, with museums, concerts, historic places, fantastic restaurants, most of which we don’t have time to take advantage. However, today I went to the Norman Rockwell museum. What a treat. Many of his pieces were away on a traveling exhibition, however, there were enough pieces left behind that I spent five hours browsing through the museum. I loved it! The museum is on the outskirts of Stockbridge. One of Rockwell’s well known pictures is of “Stockbridge Main Street at Christmas”. Rockwell said, “I just love Stockbridge,…. Stockbridge is the best of America, the best of New England.” I’d have to agree that it’s pretty special!
Wednesday 8/2/00 16 miles/3300 Total. 202 Trail Days. US 20 to Grange Hall Road.
The trail climbed from the trailhead on US 20 to the top of Becket Mountain. It was a gentle grade and within 15 minutes I had climbed into a cloud. The Berkshire Mountains are great for hiking, not too steep, not too high, glacial lakes and a lot of variety in the forest.
I overtook some section hikers, “Old Goat” and “Irish” (retired Special Forces) have taken five weeks every summer for the past four years to hike the AT. Next summer they will reach Katahdin in Maine and complete their five year journey. This is quite an accomplishment, most section hikers never complete the entire trail and the few who do may take over 20 years.
For a lunch break, I stopped by October Mountain Lean-to (a shelter). While there I met “Skid” and “Rambunny”. They are both very knowledgeable hikers and know the AT well. “Skid” thru-hiked the AT last year and did the Continental Divide Trail (CDT) three years ago. The CDT overlaps the Colorado Trail for 130 miles and I hiked it the same year “Skid” was doing the CDT. We knew a lot of the same characters. This year “Skid” started the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) and after doing 1200 miles was having problems with his asthma at the higher elevations. AT the same time his friend “Rambunny” was moving north on the AT, so he came here to be with her. The three of us hiked the last few hours of the day talking about all sorts of mutual interests.
At Blotz Road, “Skid” said we had to get off the trail a few minutes to visit the “Cookie Lady”. It was a farmhouse about 300 meters down Blotz Road. This lady has been passing out homemade cookies to thru-hikers for nearly 20 years. Good cookies and no charge. We tried to give them something for the cookie-jar but they insisted that it was their treat.
After Betty picked me up, we moved the RV to Bonnie Brae Campsite north of Pittsfield.
Betty: This is one of those times when I had two campgrounds to choose from and chose the wrong one. The other was north of here in Lanesboro, both told me they had computer access so I could update my website. This was closer to the main route, so I chose it. They had a computer hookup attached to their pay phone, however, it didn’t work. They also had a separate line in the office, but wouldn’t let me use it for fear she’d get stuck with a long distance call, even though I explained that aol has a local number and I also have an 800 number. Some people just amaze me!!
Thursday 8/3/00 13 miles/3313 Total. 203 Trail Days. Grange Hall Rd to Outlook Ave. near Cheshire.
We planned a short day so that we would be back when our “old” Army friend, Rodger Warren, arrives this afternoon. We were stationed with Rodger and Lynn in Germany 27 years ago. Rodger has been keeping up with our trip on the web site since we started last November. Somehow his mom, in north Florida, became interested in the hike and Rodger copies our latest web posting and mails it to his mother. Often when we have not updated the website for a few days his mom will ask him to check on us. We have lots of fond memories of the great times in Dexheim, Germany with the Warren’s and a few other close friends. We were all young, ecstatic to be in Europe and eager to drink in life to its fullest. To say we’re excited about meeting with our old (Lynn isn’t old) friends is an understatement.
It is overcast again today and more humid. The miles go by quickly and soon I am in the town of Dalton, MA. A small prim house in the middle of town has signs welcoming hikers to camp in the yard and use the front porch. While there I met “You can just call me Dave”, a southbounder. While talking we discovered that we both know Nina Baxley, a thru hiker from Louisiana. Dave said Nina had told him about our meeting on the Pinhoti Trail last April. That was just after Nina was caught in a flash flood and spent a cold wet night in a makeshift garbage bag shelter. He said she had chosen a new trail name: “Waterfall”. How appropriate. We look forward to meeting Nina as she hikes south in just a few days.
Later I caught up to “Skid” and “Rambunny”, we hiked and talked our way up Crystal Mountain. On top, we found “Too Far” and “Too Soon” drying their gear on some rocks in some elusive sunshine. I stopped to have lunch and “Skid” and “Rambunny” pushed onward. Even before my pack hit the ground, a thunderstorm was rolling over the mountain. With a sandwich hanging out of my mouth, I put the rain cover on my pack and made haste in getting off the mountain top. The “Too’s” were scurrying to pick up their gear. Minutes later, loud, continuous, rolling thunder with nearby lightning then rain started and continued for over an hour. By the time I reached Betty, I was soaked.
Friday 8/4/00 7 miles/3320 Total. 204 Trail Days. Outlook Ave to Summit of Mt. Greylock.
This is the best hiking weather we have had in months. It is sunny with low humidity and a light breeze. The temperature is about 72 degrees. The 2500 foot climb up Mount Greylock is not steep and goes by “without a bit of ease”. A lot of the trail is still muddy from the heavy rain we had yesterday and last night. Betty met me at the summit and we climbed the Veterans Memorial Tower (92 feet) then had lunch at Bascom Lodge. We ate with “Skid” and “Rambunny”.
Our friend Rodger Warren was delayed a day in order to replace a waterpump on his pickup truck. Actually, he is lucky he missed all the rain. He arrived at the RV park a few minutes before we returned from Mount Greylock. We spent the afternoon catching up on each other’s lives over a couple of beers. We had dinner at the Dakota restaurant just south of Pittsfield, MA. We have only seen Rodger one time, 12 years ago, in the past 25 years and yet it was almost like it had only been a long weekend. Each of us eagerly told of family and mutual friends.
Tomorrow, Rodger, Betty and I will hike from Mt. Greylock to North Adams. Rodger’s wife, Lynn, and daughter Kayce, will meet us after the hike. Can’t wait!
Betty: This is going to be one of those rare opportunities where we have two vehicles and can position them so that I will be able to hike with Rodger and Chuck. Should be a beautiful hike and the weather is supposed to be great.
Saturday 8/5/00 7 miles/3327 Total. 205 Trail Days. Summit of Mt. Greylock to North Adams, MA. (Rte. 2).
What a great day. It is sunny with low humidity. Rodger met us for breakfast at the RV then we positioned his truck at the ending point of our day’s hike. It was cool with a light breeze on top of Mt. Greylock (3491 feet).
Rodger, Betty and I hiked along a long ridgeline, across Mt. Fitch then up and over Mt. Williams. I was glad that it was a good day to hike. The three of us had hiked a lot 25 years ago in Germany, in the Taunus Mountains, the Black Forest and the Alps. It was easy to tell we had all aged; we were now more cautious on slick rocks and through wet and muddy areas. The dialogue was nonstop as we made the descent down Prospect Ridge across Paull Brook and into North Adams.
Rodger drove me back up Mt. Greylock to get our Honda. WE met Lynn and Kayce on top near the World War I Veterans Memorial. Back at the campground our age was showing again as Rodger and I only had one beer while we all visited before hitting the showers. The Warren’s took us to dinner at the Boston Seafood Restaurant in North Adams. The food and the conversation were great. Kayce has grown into a very nice and interesting young lady (of course, how could she miss with Rodger and Lynn as parents). Kayce said she was hearing tales about her parents that they had never bothered to tell her.
From the stories we heard, daughter Kerye also has grown into a fine young lady. The time went quickly and we said our good byes and all promised to get together again soon. In days of old, this session would have lasted into the wee hours instead of only 9PM. Note to Mrs. Warren in Williston, FL:
Thanks for letting your son Rodger come out and play on the mountain with us. He was a good boy – this time!
Sunday 8/6/00
Betty: We’ve been having a great time with Rodger. The hike was beautiful, as anticipated. We met Lynn and Kayce after the hike and all went out to dinner in North Adams, MA. It was so much fun to be with them and chat about old times. Kayce loved the stories!!! We moved the RV to North Adams and are in the Historic Valley Campground. Sue, the manager, told me I could update the website on her phone this afternoon. So I’m off to get that deed accomplished. More later. Our sincerest thanks to Sue, the updating went well. Historic Valley Campground is really nice and very clean. We are enjoying our stay.
Sunday 8/6/00 18 miles/3345 Total. 206 Trail Days. North Adams, MA to Vermont Rte 9.
Thirty-four years ago today the beautiful young Betty Ann June Johnson of Lime Springs, Iowa became my bride. She quit her job with the FBI in Columbia, SC to follow me around the world. Moving 21 times and living in ten states and three foreign countries, she has always been a devoted wife and mother providing a warm loving home without complaint. Now, in our retirement years when she could be back in the Florida sunshine lounging around a pool, she is out here with “the curse of the gypsy blood”, in the mountains of New England in yet another downpour. I love this gal!
The day’s hike started in North Adams, MA. Over an iron footbridge that crosses the Hoosic River and the Boston and Maine Railroad tracks, the trail begins a long gentle climb up East Mountain. It is a beautiful trail running alongside Sherman Brook for several miles. Four and one half miles from North Adams, MA. the trail crosses into Vermont. We are leaving the Berkshire Mountains behind and will now be in the legendary Green Mountains. Near the border, I overtake “Web Breaker” and “Gaited Mule”. It has been a few weeks since we have seen them; we hike together and stop at Seth Warner shelter for lunch. “Bull Dog”, a speed hiker, stopped in for lunch. He took off his lowcut trail shoes, wrung out his socks, ate two packages of cracker snacks and was back on the trail.
Later on the trail, I was checking my map when Franz caught up to me. We last saw him in Pennsylvania. We had both just finished a 27 miles day and he was in a bad way. Today, he told me that he had been having abdominal pains and passing blood. His wife, Anna, had just started supporting him and she insisted that he go to a hospital to be checked. They admitted him and kept him for four days. Evidently, he had been experiencing knee pain and was popping lots of Ibuprofen, which had burned a hole in his lower intestine. Anyway, this ex-Special Forces trooper is now back on the trail knocking out 25 miles days back-to-back. He introduced me to his hiking partners: “Dark Horse” and “Dos XX”.
During the afternoon, “Mad Scientist” blitzed by me. He is another speed hiker, this guy carries a pretty large pack and still flies down the trail.
About four miles from the end of the day’s hike, the bottom dropped out of the sky. What had been an overcast, misty day with some light showers was now a gully-washer. I was moving down the trail as fast as I could and still remain upright. Behind me, I hear someone singing; it was “Dark Horse” blasting out the words of “Raindrops Keep Falling on My Head”. He and “Dos XX” were also pressing to complete the day’s hike as soon as possible. As we made the steep descent off Harmon Hill the footing was precarious. Anna was there to meet Franz and the young couple. She told me Betty had left a half-hour ago to take “Mad Scientist” and “Smoking Joe” to a nearby town and would be back shortly.
A few minutes later Betty was back. She brought dry clothes for me. On the way to the RV park, we had dinner at the Jaeger Haus for some great German food and drink. The rain continued through the night.
Monday 8/7/00
It is still raining today and projected to rain for several days. We’ve decided to head for Lime Springs, Iowa and spend a couple extra days there.
Monday 8/14/00
We are in Toledo, Ohio and are on the way back to the trail. Chuck will be back hiking on Wednesday. We had a great time in Iowa. I went to my 40th Class Reunion. It was so neat to see everyone, renew acquaintances, hear about each other’s families, careers, etc. We were and are a great group. We had a dinner on Saturday evening and the town of Lime Springs had their Sweet Corn Days parade on Sunday in which we rode on our float. Warren Williams came up with two great banners – one of which said “They saved the best for last”. When you read on you’ll know why. It was a great time and it was hard to leave. Our class was the last class to graduate from Lime Springs High School because a month and a half before graduation the school burned down. All the classes that graduated after us, are envious and NO we did not burn the school, although as we were approaching main street, on our float, the parade was stopped because a business in town was beginning to burn. Unfortunately, the fire department couldn’t save it. So there are those who are saying we’re a jinx. What a sad note for the end of our reunion. My best friend from High School, Linda Taraldson, was at the reunion and it was especially good to see her.
Also, we had a chance to visit and spend some time with my family, which is always fun. We’ll be posting the journal in a few days or when I find computer access.
Wednesday 8/16/00
Chuck is back on the trail. We’re behind schedule now, so will have to push to make up at least some of that time. We left the RV at Battenkill Auto and RV repair shop in Arlington, Vermont. The dash airconditioner still needed to have a compressor clutch installed. When we were on the way back, we received a call from Donna at the repair shop telling us that someone stole the bikes that were locked to the back ladder on the RV. So, today I’ve been at the police department giving them details. I expected to have them stolen in New York, where we were only 50 miles from the city, but who ever heard of things being stolen in Vermont. Well, that shows how dangerous stereotypes can be.
Wednesday 8/16/00 22 miles/3367 total. 207 Trail Days. Vermont Route 9 (Bennington) to Arlington-Wardsboro Road.
It was a tough day after nine days of “the good life” off the trail. A thunderstorm moved through about 4AM and it continued raining off and on until about 2PM. Evidently, it has rained for the past 13 days, and luckily we missed nine of them. The trail has mud and standing water on the flat areas and water streaming down the trail on the slopes. Streams are swollen and some trail bridges have washed out making crossings tedious.
The Goddard Shelter seemed like a good dry place to have a late lunch. It was 1:15PM and “Train Man” was still packing his gear. “Walk About” and “Machine”, a young Aussie couple arrived a few minutes behind me. The four of us celebrated “Walk About’s” birthday. For three days, “Machine” had been carrying gifts, a candle with musical holder and chocolate pudding cups (in lieu of cake) just for this occasion.
At the next shelter, Caughnawaga, I met several southbound thru-hikers: “Looking Glass”, “Sweet Sicily”, “Chilly” and “Brisco, who are from Orlando, Florida. “Looking Glass” and “Sweet Sicily” started at Mount Katahdin with Nina, aka “Water Fall”, aka “La Nina, the Rain Goddess”.
It was slow going through mud holes and over slick rocks and roots. I arrived at Story Spring Shelter at 7PM, the time that Betty and I had planned to meet. It was another four miles to our meeting point on Arlington-Wardsboro Road. While at the shelter, I met “Nemo” who we last saw about a month ago. It was well after dark when I linked up with Betty at 9PM.
Betty’s note: To key your memory – Nina is the hiker who was caught in the flash flood on the Pinhoti Trail in Alabama and Chuck ran across her the next morning. We expect to meet up with her in the next few days.
We’re spending the night in the repair facilities parking lot. They have electric hookups for RV’s and Donna said we could stay and hook up. She even offered the use of her phone line, however I hadn’t done a good job of keeping the journal up, so wasn’t ready. She and her husband are a great couple and we’re glad to have our RV airconditioner fixed again.